Fallen Branch Stuck On Both Ends - Help

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I said without being there to see everything firsthand I would not know where to start.
I have all the equipment and know how to handle the job at hand.
You were the one being a smart ass. End of conversation.
Yeah, you'd make it til about lunchtime the first day.
 
Sawing while on Ice Is the real DANGER You need to be on guard for (slipping with a running chainsaw)
Good Luck and work SAFE
He had the chance to do it earlier from a boat but decided that was way too dangerous. Instead, he apparently thinks it is a lot safer to stand on ice running a chainsaw.

And the Darwin award goes to???
 
He had the chance to do it earlier from a boat but decided that was way too dangerous. Instead, he apparently thinks it is a lot safer to stand on ice running a chainsaw.

And the Darwin award goes to???
He says it's only 2' deep, but could be a mucky bottom... who knows... lord knows I've run a saw waist deep enough times, but that's neither here nor there. I personally would grab a couple bags of sand and scatter it on the ice, should solve the traction problem. As long as he has decent traction and takes his time and watches his cuts, I have a feeling this will be anticlimactic, to be honest.
 
Hoping the op has an anticlimactic day. Those are the safest. Hopefully things go smooth and he is able to learn somethings that he can apply in the future and be smarter/wiser/confident after the job is done. We all had to start somewhere and not everyone has been around saws/Sawyers for years of there life. Him coming here to seek any tips and tricks was a smart move. Good luck on your tree job looking forward to an update. Depending on the snow/ice there could be plenty of traction on it. Not all ice is slippery.
 
Many ideas but; How long has it been in the water? A live limb should grow to acclimate and relieve the strain/tension some if not all. the small limbs are in the water/ice they "Should" not be creating much stress/tension but still be watching for it. Like previously mentioned clean up all of the bramble leaving only the potential problem limbs in the ice. Then cut the ones less accessible like under or in an unsafe area. Leave the ones in the ice sticking up a lot. The last limb get a chain or ratchet ((Heavy duty) and secure the last one to be cut to one of the limbs protruding from the ice or back to the tree trunk. (cable come a long might be an option). Put a pope on the chain/strap before cutting in case there is tension you can retrieve it in the summer. Make several careful partial cuts every few (or more) inches on your last limb holding and watch where/if tension is there NEVER stand in the potential kick zone. Several partial cuts will take some of the energy out of the tension a little at a time and allow you to gage which way the preload/tension is (If any. How much there is )You will see the cut open a bit but if you see this stop and make another partial cut and so on if it tries to pinch in the cut you guessed it wrong and if it is on the bottom it isn't real tension but compression presumably from gravity. If you Opt to use a sheet of plywood several screws will act as ice studs to keep the sheet in place. Sawing while on Ice Is the real DANGER You need to be on guard for (slipping with a running chainsaw)
Good Luck and work SAFE
Best advice so far, imo…
 
Can you pull it further down/out with a chain or winch?
I had a number of mostly-fallen limbs after a windstorm and I pulled them down; it was sketchy enough being close to that mess of barely-there limbs to get a chain around them and I didn't want to be anywhere near that crash-waiting-to-happen with a saw.
I also pulled some across a canal; not frozen, unfortunately, but also not very wide.
 
Many ideas but; How long has it been in the water? A live limb should grow to acclimate and relieve the strain/tension some if not all. the small limbs are in the water/ice they "Should" not be creating much stress/tension but still be watching for it. Like previously mentioned clean up all of the bramble leaving only the potential problem limbs in the ice. Then cut the ones less accessible like under or in an unsafe area. Leave the ones in the ice sticking up a lot. The last limb get a chain or ratchet ((Heavy duty) and secure the last one to be cut to one of the limbs protruding from the ice or back to the tree trunk. (cable come a long might be an option). Put a pope on the chain/strap before cutting in case there is tension you can retrieve it in the summer. Make several careful partial cuts every few (or more) inches on your last limb holding and watch where/if tension is there NEVER stand in the potential kick zone. Several partial cuts will take some of the energy out of the tension a little at a time and allow you to gage which way the preload/tension is (If any. How much there is )You will see the cut open a bit but if you see this stop and make another partial cut and so on if it tries to pinch in the cut you guessed it wrong and if it is on the bottom it isn't real tension but compression presumably from gravity. If you Opt to use a sheet of plywood several screws will act as ice studs to keep the sheet in place. Sawing while on Ice Is the real DANGER You need to be on guard for (slipping with a running chainsaw)
Good Luck and work SAFE
I was going to suggest this basic thing yesterday but decided not too because I figured many would critically pile on. Anyway, I would consider this but with a rope and slip knot in the equation somewhere to allow remote release.

But even better! :) What you could have done before the water froze was attach a heavy rope or logging chain to the tree above where the cutting will take place. Attach an old tire rim to the free end and drop it into the canal. The chain/rope should be short enough so that the rim hangs deep in the water but does not rest on the bottom of the canal. Let the canal freeze then go out and cut all the branches without and the chain/rope in the ice will hold the tree down. Go back in the spring after the ice has melted and retrieve the chain/rope and rim which should then be hanging above the canal.
 
He had the chance to do it earlier from a boat but decided that was way too dangerous. Instead, he apparently thinks it is a lot safer to stand on ice running a chainsaw.

And the Darwin award goes to???
More than likely it is safer. Ice that's been snowed on while it formed isn't particularly slippery, certainly no more so than many other snow covered surfaces that we stand on while cutting trees.
 
I may be doing the same thing in a couple days. The branches are now locked in ice on this red oak. If I have time to do it I will update with pics and techniques used. If you don't have another saw buy a spare bar and chain. Worst case scenario is you unmount the bar and chain and remount the spare If you get pinched. Also if you have a Sawzall get some pruning blades and that could help. Doesn't cut as fast as a chainsaw but the inherited risks are minimized.
Porter-Cable makes some pretty good 9-inch pruning blades (PC760R) that I use with my Dewalt reciprocating saw. Works well.
 
Im surprised no one mentioned to cut the compression side first of the wood. When you make the first cut, cut one third to half way on compression side and then from the opposite side make the cut an inch or two to the side of where the first cut would be if you draw a line all the way threw. When you are citing the second cut somewhere around the time you start getting close to the first cut ,watch out depending on the wood it can pop off before you get to where the cuts cross or it may take a little longer in the cut. I believe its called a step cut and you will never get your saw stuck if you cut the compression side first and you offset the second cut. If your concerned you can make the first cut wider by making another cut exactly the same as the first before making the cut on the. Other side of the wood, just a hair to one side to open the compression side up. You could even make a notch, but it's not needed.
 
Im surprised no one mentioned to cut the compression side first of the wood. When you make the first cut, cut one third to half way on compression side and then from the opposite side make the cut an inch or two to the side of where the first cut would be if you draw a line all the way threw. When you are citing the second cut somewhere around the time you start getting close to the first cut ,watch out depending on the wood it can pop off before you get to where the cuts cross or it may take a little longer in the cut. I believe its called a step cut and you will never get your saw stuck if you cut the compression side first and you offset the second cut. If your concerned you can make the first cut wider by making another cut exactly the same as the first before making the cut on the. Other side of the wood, just a hair to one side to open the compression side up. You could even make a notch, but it's not needed.
Excellent point, and that did get missed, good catch.
 

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