Farmertec 880

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

phanc60844

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jul 25, 2021
Messages
8
Reaction score
1
Location
Uk
Hi,
Just bought a farmertec 880 kit. The build went well apart from the decompression valve. I couldn't pull the saw over fast enough to start it, a new valve from a husky sorted that out. Now i can get the saw to start and run on fast choke but when i switch to idle it dies. Ive adusted until the screw is all the way in but its still the same. Anyone got any ideas? My next step is to pull the carb and strip it to clean out the low speed screw ports but im waiting on a new gasket /diaphragm set.
Paul
 
Didn't do a vac test but wouldn't that affect it on choke? Compression is good, i struggle to pull it even with the decompression valve open, impossible to pull with it closed.
Paul
 
Never had to do one in 30 years of tinkering with chainsaws, maybe ive been lucky?
 
Never had to do one in 30 years of tinkering with chainsaws, maybe ive been lucky?
Your mileage may vary, some won’t test new saws they build and will do so if a situation like this occurs. I do it out of precaution as part of the rebuild process as it’s much easier not having to tear everything off it to find a leak if there is one present, as soon as the seals are in and cylinder is on I’ll do the test.

Everyone has their own way of building / repairing though and it just depends on the individual as to their preference. In this case, knowing it’s a fresh rebuild presenting with lean symptoms it’s a good idea just to rule it out.

Alternatively, what’s your knowledge on carb tuning? A quick turn the L screw 1/4 anticlockwise to richen the idle and progressive drilllings a little and adjust the LA to compensate the drop in rpm to see how the saw responds is also a good idea. I haven’t had good luck with Chinese am carbs, they seem hit and miss.

Some have excellent luck with these clone saws and parts while others are less fortunate, it’s just the nature of the beast.

A sensible direction forward is to rule out any air leaks. From there you can progress onto testing if it’s the filter, fuel line, impulse line or carb (all of which can be tested with the same tool).
 
If you don't find an air leak I'd be pulling the carb apart & thoroughly checking all the passages etc. Don't blast the main nozzle with compressed air, there's a wee valve in there that won't like it. When you've got it back together you can use your new tester on the carb too :D
 
It may be the carb, the gasket surfaces were all clean an i torqued up all the fasteners so the case should be OK, I hope?
 
Back
Top