Farmertech 372xp wont hold a tune

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Alanmurphy6912

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Hey fellas I wanna say thanks in advance to any and everyone who has helped me fix issues in the past and going forward. I have a farmertech 372xp (non x torque) clone and I built it from a complete parts kit, minus the o ring that goes in behind the bushing up against the outside crank bearing/seal and a few other odds and ends I had to source from a husquvarna dealer. I put the saw together and pressure vacuum tested it and it held tight. So I proceed to put it together and start it up. Mind you I set the carb to like 2 turns out on each screw. Just as a base to start it as I wanted it to run pig rich for the first tank or 2. So it did run but it wasnt great. It wouldn't rev up very fast (after tuning) or even rev above like 10,500 rpm. So i thought i had an issue with the carb as the low screw ended up being put about 3 1/2 turns and somewhere close with the high jet. So I order a different carb everyone was raving about being good for the money and it's a little better. But just in a different realm of settings. Now it's at like 2 turns our on the l screw amd like 1/4 turn out on the high screw. And it would run a little better. So then I changed the coil to an oem coil a black one anyway wether its limited or not I couldn't tell you. I was having issues with the tank handle that came with it as it had an actual hose com9ng from the fuel vent and would leak. So I put the tip of a bolt in it with some slots cut into.it and t0 no avail it didnt work. So now I've ordered and recieved a new tank handle with a different style tank vent. And it no longer leaks fuel and actually seems to be holding some pressure in like if you pop the fuel cap slowly it will hiss air OUT of the tank which sorta seems normal as I've got other saws that do that. I thought I had it running good yesterday as I had her warmed up amd tuned and then on its side to cut a stump it ran like crap like it was over fueling and wouldn't pull any rpm. I've changed fuel filter fuel lines,carb twice, checked pressure and vac ,has an ngk spark plug,good 40 :1 ethanol free fuel mixed with klotz benòl. Any ideas are greatly appreciated
P.s I know I need to buy an oem carburetor but there like $100 that I dont have at the moment. And am worried murphys law says anything that can go wrong,will go wrong...
 
Hey fellas I wanna say thanks in advance to any and everyone who has helped me fix issues in the past and going forward. I have a farmertech 372xp (non x torque) clone and I built it from a complete parts kit, minus the o ring that goes in behind the bushing up against the outside crank bearing/seal and a few other odds and ends I had to source from a husquvarna dealer. I put the saw together and pressure vacuum tested it and it held tight. So I proceed to put it together and start it up. Mind you I set the carb to like 2 turns out on each screw. Just as a base to start it as I wanted it to run pig rich for the first tank or 2. So it did run but it wasnt great. It wouldn't rev up very fast (after tuning) or even rev above like 10,500 rpm. So i thought i had an issue with the carb as the low screw ended up being put about 3 1/2 turns and somewhere close with the high jet. So I order a different carb everyone was raving about being good for the money and it's a little better. But just in a different realm of settings. Now it's at like 2 turns our on the l screw amd like 1/4 turn out on the high screw. And it would run a little better. So then I changed the coil to an oem coil a black one anyway wether its limited or not I couldn't tell you. I was having issues with the tank handle that came with it as it had an actual hose com9ng from the fuel vent and would leak. So I put the tip of a bolt in it with some slots cut into.it and t0 no avail it didnt work. So now I've ordered and recieved a new tank handle with a different style tank vent. And it no longer leaks fuel and actually seems to be holding some pressure in like if you pop the fuel cap slowly it will hiss air OUT of the tank which sorta seems normal as I've got other saws that do that. I thought I had it running good yesterday as I had her warmed up amd tuned and then on its side to cut a stump it ran like crap like it was over fueling and wouldn't pull any rpm. I've changed fuel filter fuel lines,carb twice, checked pressure and vac ,has an ngk spark plug,good 40 :1 ethanol free fuel mixed with klotz benòl. Any ideas are greatly appreciated
P.s I know I need to buy an oem carburetor but there like $100 that I dont have at the moment. And am worried murphys law says anything that can go wrong,will go wrong...
I'd pull the carb apart and check the height of the metering lever, I've had a few saws where the lever was too high and they'd flood themselves out. If that doesn't work, I'll look around and see if I have a spare oem 372 carb I could sell. I know I have 1 or 2, but I think one might have been an XT. Just an fyi, an oem black coil is unlimited.
 
I'd pull the carb apart and check the height of the metering lever, I've had a few saws where the lever was too high and they'd flood themselves out. If that doesn't work, I'll look around and see if I have a spare oem 372 carb I could sell. I know I have 1 or 2, but I think one might have been an XT. Just an fyi, an oem black coil is unlimited.
Ok i thought so 9n the coil being unlimited. It seems to starve for fuel as w9th this chinese carb that it came with is set at like 3 turns out on the low and a half a turn on the high to make it run decent and even then when I first start it it starves for fuel. But then after running for awhile sometimes it starts running super rich and flooding out. I'll check the metering levers. I have a walbro and a zama adjustment tool. I appreciate the advice. I ordered a carb from the duke saw salvage on ebay that said it would fit the g372xp and it won't. The one I got from them has the spout on top for the impulse and the mount holes are at like a 45 degree angle from each other instead of straight level across like the original that came with the saw so thats the style I would need is the level mounted style. I've no clue what the difference between the 372xp and xt is?
 
This is why people shouldn’t buy Chinese clone saws.

So far you’ve brought the saw, new rear handle, a bunch of genuine husky parts, a new carb, new coil, you also want to spend $100 on another oem carb now, yet you’re left with a junk saw that doesn’t and never will have any resale value, doesn’t work and will always be unreliable.

How many hundreds of dollars have you literally just chucked into the bin so far? Not to mention the time wasted in getting and fitting parts, time struggling with it etc and it doesn’t work…

My honest advice is don’t throw any more money into the bin.
 
This is why people shouldn’t buy Chinese clone saws.

So far you’ve brought the saw, new rear handle, a bunch of genuine husky parts, a new carb, new coil, you also want to spend $100 on another oem carb now, yet you’re left with a junk saw that doesn’t and never will have any resale value, doesn’t work and will always be unreliable.

How many hundreds of dollars have you literally just chucked into the bin so far? Not to mention the time wasted in getting and fitting parts, time struggling with it etc and it doesn’t work…

My honest advice is don’t throw any more money into the bin.
Yea most of the parts I already had except the rear handle and a a cheap chinese carb. I only tried it because I have built the 660 clone with a hyway pop up and caber ri bg s etc and that saw is a beast and has been awesome for over a year now for less than 400 bucks so that saw particularly i can't complain about. Everyone raved about the 372 clone and I've always wanted a 372 since I can't find one for less than 800 bucks I took my 240 bucks and bought the kit. The main pourpose and satisfaction for me was just building the saw from pieces but of course since it doesn't want to run right I won't rest until it does. Or its figured out 1 of the 2. There definitely not for the feint of heart my friend. You sound like China stole your lunch money or something lol but yes thanks for the tip! You do make a valid point tho, ha I not already had a bunch of parts for it I'd be in a bunch of money. But I'm still in under 300 bucks so for now I'm not too mad at my life choices.
 
Yea most of the parts I already had except the rear handle and a a cheap chinese carb. I only tried it because I have built the 660 clone with a hyway pop up and caber ri bg s etc and that saw is a beast and has been awesome for over a year now for less than 400 bucks so that saw particularly i can't complain about. Everyone raved about the 372 clone and I've always wanted a 372 since I can't find one for less than 800 bucks I took my 240 bucks and bought the kit. The main pourpose and satisfaction for me was just building the saw from pieces but of course since it doesn't want to run right I won't rest until it does. Or its figured out 1 of the 2. There definitely not for the feint of heart my friend. You sound like China stole your lunch money or something lol but yes thanks for the tip! You do make a valid point tho, ha I not already had a bunch of parts for it I'd be in a bunch of money. But I'm still in under 300 bucks so for now I'm not too mad at my life choices.
They aren’t the deal many people believe them to be and your experience is the most common experience people have with clone saws.

Regardless, I hope you can get it sorted. Best of luck 👍
 
They aren’t the deal many people believe them to be and your experience is the most common experience people have with clone saws.

Regardless, I hope you can get it sorted. Best of luck 👍
Some of the OEM saws also have problems, ever heard of pistons installed backwards?, any new thing has to be run in, you don't send a newly built ship straight to sea without sea trials.
 
This is why people shouldn’t buy Chinese clone saws.

So far you’ve brought the saw, new rear handle, a bunch of genuine husky parts, a new carb, new coil, you also want to spend $100 on another oem carb now, yet you’re left with a junk saw that doesn’t and never will have any resale value, doesn’t work and will always be unreliable.

How many hundreds of dollars have you literally just chucked into the bin so far? Not to mention the time wasted in getting and fitting parts, time struggling with it etc and it doesn’t work…

My honest advice is don’t throw any more money into the bin.
Nailed it.
 
They aren’t the deal many people believe them to be and your experience is the most common experience people have with clone saws.

Regardless, I hope you can get it sorted. Best of luck 👍
Yea I guess it depends. I mean my 660 clone has been great. But I built it from scratch kit with a few oem parts and so on. I cannot speak for the already built saws from holzfforma because I've never bought or used one I'd rather put them together myself and know for sure that my squish is good,and crank is centered,and that my base is sealed and so on and so forth so i get what your saying and i hope i figure it out also. Without too much money otherwise. I'd a loved to find an oem 372 and I'd just build that and not mess with this one but maybe for parts
 
The 365/372 kit works quite well.Sorting out problems is part of the process.I put a Zama C3M-DM11 carb on my 372 kit and it runs perfect.
Isn't that the same carb as the stihl 029? Or ms290? I'm curious because I have a 029 with a good carb on it I could try out I just dont know how the air filter setup would work with the horn on the top of the carb. I tried to look up that carb you mentioned and I'm seeing a bunch of them on ebay way cheaper than the 100 dollar walbro
 
Keep trying, they can function just fine as expected since they are a copy of a superior design.Tweaks may be necessary.I guess its expected to have to look a little further than the obvious sometimes in order to sort them out.
Yes sir. I've been trying everything I can. At least within my budget and what i have in my parts bins ,and other saws I have.
 
Same carb as the Dolmar 6400/7300/7900. I think Husqvarna also used them for the 365 for a time.Dont know about being used in the Stihl saws.Not long ago there was a guy here selling them new for 50 and change.
 
Same carb as the Dolmar 6400/7300/7900. I think Husqvarna also used them for the 365 for a time.Dont know about being used in the Stihl saws.Not long ago there was a guy here selling them new for 50 and change.
Yes I found one on ebay for like $55 and free 4 day shipping. I was just hoping I could sorta do a try before I buy thing and see if that fixes my problem. Aka using the carb off my 029 and if it works I'd just buy the new carb when I can afford it. Thanks for the advise. Every time i think i have it tuned well enough to go cut with it I'll go and use it for about 5 or 10 mins and then it starts acting up bogging on acceleration and not idling and just super rich. I even went as far as cracking the fuel cap to let pressure out while it was running and it still didnt make s difference. I have a full wrap oem handle and spikes on it and it's a nice sorta light saw with a 20 inch bar and I'd like to use it as my main firewood saw for normal sized trees and logs and use my 660 for larger stuff and when I'm feeling froggy lol but until its reliable I dont dare take it to the woods and embarrass myself lol.
 
Yes I found one on ebay for like $55 and free 4 day shipping. I was just hoping I could sorta do a try before I buy thing and see if that fixes my problem. Aka using the carb off my 029 and if it works I'd just buy the new carb when I can afford it. Thanks for the advise. Every time i think i have it tuned well enough to go cut with it I'll go and use it for about 5 or 10 mins and then it starts acting up bogging on acceleration and not idling and just super rich. I even went as far as cracking the fuel cap to let pressure out while it was running and it still didnt make s difference. I have a full wrap oem handle and spikes on it and it's a nice sorta light saw with a 20 inch bar and I'd like to use it as my main firewood saw for normal sized trees and logs and use my 660 for larger stuff and when I'm feeling froggy lol but until its reliable I dont dare take it to the woods and embarrass myself lol.
 

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Yeah c3m-dm11.regular 372 kit saw.I think the guys handle had "Ford" in it.Amazon and Ebay.Take your time with it.Sounds like carb, You could even use a fuel line from the vent hole and use an echo type vent. I know personally I start to get impatient when a rebuild does not act right.Take your time and enjoy the build.Edit 3: I dont' remember if mine had two brass fittings out of the carb.
 
This is the carb you used? And on a farmertech or alike kit saw? Like non x tor
Yeah c3m-dm11.regular 372 kit saw.I think the guys handle had "Ford" in it.Amazon and Ebay.Take your time with it.Sounds like carb, You could even use a fuel line from the vent hole and use an echo type vent. I know personally I start to get impatient when a rebuild does not act right.Take your time and enjoy the build.Edit 3: I dont' remember if mine had two brass fittings out of the carb.
Yes sir that is me. I built this saw like 2 months ago and have been messing with it ever since. I put a different tank handle on it from the Duke that had a breather built into.the tank instead of the hose coming off the tank with the spring on it that the kit came with because I originally thought that was culprit also
 

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This is the carb you used? And on a farmertech or alike kit saw? Like non x tor

Yes sir that is me. I built this saw like 2 months ago and have been messing with it ever since. I put a different tank handle on it from the Duke that had a breather built into.the tank instead of the hose coming off the tank with the spring on it that the kit came with because I originally thought that was culprit.
 

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