Farmertech 372xp wont hold a tune

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I guess I just don't have a lot of trust in other people, I have to see and experience myself - just like a monkey.
And I am surprised to see how popular culture rule the minds of so many people, some maybe right - and some maybe wrong.
I've actually spent money on Remington and Lombard saws, so I certainly wouldn't say popular culture sways my choices?
I can sympathize with having to lay hands on something to judge its quality but there's lots of online pictures of products online that can be viewed as well.
I do have to say that the 19.00$ farmertech 52mm I put on my G372XP runs just as/or stronger than any stock 372xp I've ever run. I did use Caber rings though in all my builds.
 
Ok so I'm putting this 036 together and I realize the piston slot where the connecting rod sits into is too wide.has anyone ever ran into this? The oem piston measures 13mm and the oem connecting rod is 12.7mm. My new piston is measuring around 14.7mm. And I'm not so sure I should proceed. I've rebuild quite a lot of saws and never once ran into this issue. Any advise would be greatly appreciated! As my name states murphys law is for real!
with that much gap I would not run it, the wrist pin bearing walking out that far leaving the piston improperly supported on one side would be a issue for me.
The major difference in aftermarket pistons is the grade of aluminum not just the finishing and final machining. There is a reason manufacturers use certain blends of aluminum and its called controlled expansion and hardness retention. Cheap kits try to offset this with mild port timing that limits max rpm and encourages richer running conditions at wide open throttle. If you do not believe me adjust one by ear then put a tach on it and set it or try to set it at factory max rpm then run it hard all day for a week...bet it will not survive.
 
with that much gap I would not run it, the wrist pin bearing walking out that far leaving the piston improperly supported on one side would be a issue for me.
The major difference in aftermarket pistons is the grade of aluminum not just the finishing and final machining. There is a reason manufacturers use certain blends of aluminum and its called controlled expansion and hardness retention. Cheap kits try to offset this with mild port timing that limits max rpm and encourages richer running conditions at wide open throttle. If you do not believe me adjust one by ear then put a tach on it and set it or try to set it at factory max rpm then run it hard all day for a week...bet it will not survive.

I set mine with a tach, just to make sure I wasn't skimping on the rpms (13500 Husqvarna's #).
I've run it pretty hard to see if it would fail and they have spent a couple months at work with me dropping trees then some firewood duty for good measure. I didn't count tanks or anything like that but I use my saws,(just 2 shelf queens at my house),and the work I have done with these saws have paid for themselves at least a dozen times over.
I wear stuff out using it for it's intended purpose without having to beat it.
If 1 grenades tomorrow I literally gained monetary value.
I do maticiously clean and care for my equipment, wether cheap or expensive and dont abuse it to prove I'm tougher than someone else, so the longevity of things with me might do better based on that?
 
The alternative crankcase I bought had an insignia/logo in the cast, some factory mark that indicates what factory made it.
I'm just saying that if you build a kit and you are not happy with some parts, it might be better else where.

With my present 365/72 kit I have found most parts in the kit to be really nice and preferred to the alternative parts I got - which are much more expensive.

With my 038/381 kit I made a couple years ago it was very specific exactly which parts was not up to the task as I use it for milling.
I go to something like DIY spareparts (or similar) that have parts diagrams and only distribute original parts directly from the vendor (Stihl/Husqvarna, etc).
And I look out the parts I want that dont hold water, and I also look at other parts that dont cost much. Some OEM Stihl parts for old saws are surprisingly affordable, freight cost may be high though.
So in my 038/381 kit back then it was; the clutch springs (lasted couple of hours) and the bar studs (made in too soft metal) and the chain adjuster (crap).
Also I needed to modify the oiler not to leak and to deliver enough oil, I did not spend the money on an OEM oil pump, but I would have if I did not successfully modify the one I had. And the crankshaft was not straight and true - bought +2 from Farmertec they where all the same. Then I got a different aftermarked one from a shop downunder and it was perfect. Had to wait two months and it ended up expensive - but it was worth it.
Offcourse the same kit now may be a totally different animal/production.

So the 038 holds up perfectly, it is now rock solid reliable and as I use it for milling it have really been tested to extent. Easiest saw I have to start.
Offcourse it is a "very" solid/rigid construction/design to begin with, but probably surpassed by the 365/72 for performance, and the 036/361 for weight.
The 046/460 will be my future milling saw though for sure. 4,4kw as original but with a 82,5ccm light ported cylinder - at the weight of a 65/70cc.
A modest calculation says 4.75kw, thats only surpassed by the 500i. Probably a disaster for global warming though...
Yes sir, I have a legit 038 magnum and I love that saw. Has always been reliable and ran great. More of a low rpm torque saw as that's how mine runs anyway but I've never yet seen the 038 kit saw up close. I just got a 460 from holzfforma and I bought it whole instead of in a kit this time as I wanted a full wrap handle for the same price as the kit that doesnt come with one,however I bought a hyway pop up,caber rings,oem needle bearings s and used the hyway circlips,and wrist pin. Also a hyway gasket kit. So b4 even running it i tore it all down and checked everything. Crank case looked great, crank was nice and smooth after all ended up being air tight also. I put it together yday and started breaking it in pig rich with lots of oil. Runs good. The only gripe I have so far is the dam high idle when starting is wide open just like my 660 kit saw (neo tech) was before I fixed it by filing some of the interlock down. Other then that I've now got a tank plus of fuel thru it and started to do some cutting with it until it started to rain just now. Also waiting for a 25 inch holz bar amd chain to show up for it as ive never used there bars or chains so that'll be a review for sure that I'll report on. P.s all paid for out of my pocket,and not given or gifted to me. The other problem I have is the full wrap handle was bent or mis shaped from the factory as my knuckles would hit the brake handle just holding it normally. So the ebay seller is sending me a new one. I also ordered west coast kit for it which consists of there 3 pt dogs,bark box,chain catcher and whatever else there little bundle comes with. Love them stihl scrench holders too for the $12. This saw seems to run just as good as my 660 minus all the weight. I'd like to get a better air filter for it like I did the 660. And maybe a tank guard setup. We will see. Also sorry for the delay everyone,I did finish the 036 and it ran great. I've since then sold it and plan to maybe rebuild the 372x torq at some point. If not I'm gonna try to save up for a top handle saw. Would be handy. Has anyone had any experience with the 200t clone? Or any other top handle saws for around the same $200 to $300?
 

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I'm looking forwards to that, I have actually never heard or seen any such problem on a chainsaw - OEM or not.
I'm also now noticing that the piston has 2 different style circlips in it! Is that a factory thing or I'm assuming someone must have already been inside this saw? The tag says it's a 2016 model 372
 

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I set mine with a tach, just to make sure I wasn't skimping on the rpms (13500 Husqvarna's #).
I've run it pretty hard to see if it would fail and they have spent a couple months at work with me dropping trees then some firewood duty for good measure. I didn't count tanks or anything like that but I use my saws,(just 2 shelf queens at my house),and the work I have done with these saws have paid for themselves at least a dozen times over.
I wear stuff out using it for it's intended purpose without having to beat it.
If 1 grenades tomorrow I literally gained monetary value.
I do maticiously clean and care for my equipment, wether cheap or expensive and dont abuse it to prove I'm tougher than someone else, so the longevity of things with me might do better based on that?
The only am stuff that will keep up is meteor, every single other kit had to be set at a lower rpm than stock. I have had 2 aftermarket p/c kits soft seize trying to set them up at stock max rpm (my ears and gut told me not to). They were wearing the max recommended bar fully buried in hard red oak. All stihls, maybe husqy is different because of design differences?
 
Yes I did and that post of still a chinese knock off. I been thru a few of those before buying a zama and making it work. It does run way better now. I still dont think its 100% what it should be but it is what it is at this point lol
damn that thing ate some ball bearings !
 
Plus, as a guy on another forum put it you might get a really good $20 p/c kit. But, that's just one time. The next one could be a complete turd. If you want a consistently good product go to a consistently reliable manufacturer. As for FT pistons, to the best of my knowledge I've never handled one so I can't comment on them specifically.
Ft pistons seem okay as with some of there other parts are okay also. Most of the cylinder s I've encountered where okay except this most recent ms 460 I bought complete and tore down the last day or so it needed quite a bit of port cleaning and filing,also the cylinder wall coating or whatever er it is or was they have on them like like different colors in spots like it was stained or something I'm not really sure. I should have taken pictures of that but I was sorta antsy to get it put back together and fired up. So that's what I did. If it ends up popping 1 day then I'll go meteor or hyway titanickel or something because I plan to keep this saw and run it almost daily during the summer. The piston that it came with looked good also. As did my 660 piston but the 660 is a "neo tech" kit I bought not actually farmer tech or holzfforma. They might be the same I have no clue. First picture is holzfforma (farmer tech) piston that came in my 460. Second pic is the neo tech piston and rings that came in my 660. Neo te h seems to be higher quality feels nicer,looks a little better and I'm not sure but picture 3 has what appears to be hyway rings. Hy on the rings like some of the hyway rings I've used. The 660 piston had an hour maybe of run time before I swapped it out for the pop up and caber rings.
 

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I set mine with a tach, just to make sure I wasn't skimping on the rpms (13500 Husqvarna's #).
I've run it pretty hard to see if it would fail and they have spent a couple months at work with me dropping trees then some firewood duty for good measure. I didn't count tanks or anything like that but I use my saws,(just 2 shelf queens at my house),and the work I have done with these saws have paid for themselves at least a dozen times over.
I wear stuff out using it for it's intended purpose without having to beat it.
If 1 grenades tomorrow I literally gained monetary value.
I do maticiously clean and care for my equipment, wether cheap or expensive and dont abuse it to prove I'm tougher than someone else, so the longevity of things with me might do better based on that?
Indeed! I too like to try and take care of my stuff. Always blow the saw dust and gunk out of my saws and so on after using them.
 
I'm also now noticing that the piston has 2 different style circlips in it! Is that a factory thing or I'm assuming someone must have already been inside this saw? The tag says it's a 2016 model 372
The pistons on some models have a circlip with no ears on one side and a clip with ears on the other. I’m guessing they’re getting rid of 50% of the potential failure rate by not having the ear on one side. Or maybe the ears cost more to produce
 
Yes sir, I have a legit 038 magnum and I love that saw. Has always been reliable and ran great. More of a low rpm torque saw as that's how mine runs anyway but I've never yet seen the 038 kit saw up close. I just got a 460 from holzfforma and I bought it whole instead of in a kit this time as I wanted a full wrap handle for the same price as the kit that doesnt come with one,however I bought a hyway pop up,caber rings,oem needle bearings s and used the hyway circlips,and wrist pin. Also a hyway gasket kit. So b4 even running it i tore it all down and checked everything. Crank case looked great, crank was nice and smooth after all ended up being air tight also. I put it together yday and started breaking it in pig rich with lots of oil. Runs good. The only gripe I have so far is the dam high idle when starting is wide open just like my 660 kit saw (neo tech) was before I fixed it by filing some of the interlock down. Other then that I've now got a tank plus of fuel thru it and started to do some cutting with it until it started to rain just now. Also waiting for a 25 inch holz bar amd chain to show up for it as ive never used there bars or chains so that'll be a review for sure that I'll report on. P.s all paid for out of my pocket,and not given or gifted to me. The other problem I have is the full wrap handle was bent or mis shaped from the factory as my knuckles would hit the brake handle just holding it normally. So the ebay seller is sending me a new one. I also ordered west coast kit for it which consists of there 3 pt dogs,bark box,chain catcher and whatever else there little bundle comes with. Love them stihl scrench holders too for the $12. This saw seems to run just as good as my 660 minus all the weight. I'd like to get a better air filter for it like I did the 660. And maybe a tank guard setup. We will see. Also sorry for the delay everyone,I did finish the 036 and it ran great. I've since then sold it and plan to maybe rebuild the 372x torq at some point. If not I'm gonna try to save up for a top handle saw. Would be handy. Has anyone had any experience with the 200t clone? Or any other top handle saws for around the same $200 to $300?
My most used saw is a top handle, I use Echo - yours are better (but heavier).
Just a tad too heavy for what I consider convenient, but more powerful.

I want a 385/390 carb on my 365/372, but not all parts is available as aftermarked. It gets pretty expensive pretty quick.
Might not be worth it...
 
My most used saw is a top handle, I use Echo - yours are better (but heavier).
Just a tad too heavy for what I consider convenient, but more powerful.

I want a 385/390 carb on my 365/372, but not all parts is available as aftermarked. It gets pretty expensive pretty quick.
Might not be worth it...
Yea I do too on the larger carb thing. I have the larger carbs aftermarket but youd need a 272 intake block and screws and itll hook up but the choke lever womt work right or fit and neither does the 372 air filter. I'd like a top handle for climbing and just some overall smaller stuff 1 handed cutting etc. All the other saws I have for the most part are felling, and firewood saws. And then i have a couple climbing saws
 

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