Fast-Filer Chain Filing Guide

[Philbert]

I have an older Pferd type guide, a Husky roller, a Stihl roller, a Timberline, a Gramn and a Homelite410 vice. I also have a grinder with a Dinasaw wheel. Clearly, I am a easy sell for any gizmo.

I also have a 'collection' of different filing guides, etc. But mine is because I am interested in trying different ones out, just for curiosity.

Most of these will sharpen chains adequately, if the user understands how they work, and what the finished cutter should look like. If they get that, they should be able to sharpen with any of them. Some have limits, like fixed angles that some users will not like, or only work with certain chains. Everyone needs to find something that works for them.

. . . could you explain why recommended wheels are narrower than recommended files?

Round chainsaw files are available in 1/4", 5/32", 11/64", 3/16", 13/64", 7/32", and 5/16" diameters, and in standard and smooth cut patterns.
Wheels for chain grinders are available in 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", and 5/16" thicknesses, and in a variety of grits (coarse to smooth).

While I have never received an authoritative answer, I have to speculate that the wheels could be made in any thickness or grit, but that the market demand does not support that. If you custom order a coated (ABN/CBN) wheel, you can get it in any thickness, grit, and edge profile you choose.

If you truly shape the edge of the wheel to a half-round profile, and 'grind as you file', then it would make sense that the wheel thickness should match the recommended file diameter. Some people grind cutters to a different profile than they file to, by using the side of the wheel. Some people grind the cutters to a rough shape, and finish with a file of the 'correct' diameter. I assume that most people just use the recommended grinding wheel size, even though it is different than the recommended file diameter.

And how do these Aussie guides compare to the Stihl?

I have not used either of the STIHL roller guides personally (yet!). It appears that the FF1 (left photo) works with the standard (flat) STIHL file guides to maintain a consistent top plate angle and down angle (the standard file holders provide a consistent file depth, and a let you 'eyeball' the other angles). The FG4 (right photo) appears to fix the file in all three, main settings (top plate angle, file depth, down angle). These file guides may also work with skip tooth chain (if they set on the tie straps, rather than on adjacent cutters).



The Fast-Filer guides also allow the user to also set a consistent cutter length, by use of the vertical rollers. The Fast-Filer also claims to allow the user to set the depth gauge height.

Philbert

 

[rwoods]

Thanks, Philbert,

Just as only one out of the five pictures I took is clear enough to possibly show my concern with the Stihl roller, I for one don't have the fine motor skills necessary to consistently sharpen well. Which is why I keep looking for some reliable mechanical assist.

The Stihl has been the best for me at achieving the right file height, but as you might be able to see in the photo, I have almost cut the plastic post that holds one side of the rollers in two by the occasional mis-stroke. If it were entirely made of metal instead of plastic, it would last a lifetime of my sloppy strokes. I have only sharpened 10 to 15 chains with it.

Ron

 

[Philbert]

All metal rollers would be hard on the files.
Maybe contact STIHL and ask if this is expected wear for this product, or suggestions on how to avoid it?
http://www.stihlusa.com/information/corporate/contact-us/



Or try to resurrect a related thread:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/has-anyone-used-stihl-fg-4-roller-filing-guide.241840/

Philbert

 

[Chainsaw10]

I have the FF1 stihl guide. Yes , you use the simple file guide in conjunction with it and it fits right in the slot for perfect angles. The only problem with it is that it sticks ....the metal on metal sliding is not smooth at all, even if I oil it before use. It's hard to get the file pulled back consistantly into the tooth without wrestling with it on every tooth. Maybe I need to try a different lube, I just used 3 in 1 oil.....maybe some grease would be better.

 

[axeandwedge]

I also have a 'collection' of different filing guides, etc. But mine is because I am interested in trying different ones out, just for curiosity.

Most of these will sharpen chains adequately, if the user understands how they work, and what the finished cutter should look like. If they get that, they should be able to sharpen with any of them. Some have limits, like fixed angles that some users will not like, or only work with certain chains. Everyone needs to find something that works for them.



Round chainsaw files are available in 1/4", 5/32", 11/64", 3/16", 13/64", 7/32", and 5/16" diameters, and in standard and smooth cut patterns.
Wheels for chain grinders are available in 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", and 5/16" thicknesses, and in a variety of grits (coarse to smooth).

While I have never received an authoritative answer, I have to speculate that the wheels could be made in any thickness or grit, but that the market demand does not support that. If you custom order a coated (ABN/CBN) wheel, you can get it in any thickness, grit, and edge profile you choose.

If you truly shape the edge of the wheel to a half-round profile, and 'grind as you file', then it would make sense that the wheel thickness should match the recommended file diameter. Some people grind cutters to a different profile than they file to, by using the side of the wheel. Some people grind the cutters to a rough shape, and finish with a file of the 'correct' diameter. I assume that most people just use the recommended grinding wheel size, even though it is different than the recommended file diameter.

View attachment 515569



I have not used either of the STIHL roller guides personally (yet!). It appears that the FF1 (left photo) works with the standard (flat) STIHL file guides to maintain a consistent top plate angle and down angle (the standard file holders provide a consistent file depth, and a let you 'eyeball' the other angles). The FG4 (right photo) appears to fix the file in all three, main settings (top plate angle, file depth, down angle). These file guides may also work with skip tooth chain (if they set on the tie straps, rather than on adjacent cutters).

View attachment 515567 View attachment 515568

The Fast-Filer guides also allow the user to also set a consistent cutter length, by use of the vertical rollers. The Fast-Filer also claims to allow the user to set the depth gauge height.

Philbert

If used with a new chain consistent cutter length is easily achieved with with a few strokes of the file depending on the dullness of the chain,obviously on a used hand filed chain there is more filing required,i set the guide on the average length teeth and over a couple of sharpens will end up with all being equal.
On my first outing with the fast filer i was a bit over exited and did not notice the roller was a tad tight,i filed the side a bit and simply undid the screw and turned the roller upside down as the file does not run in the same spot.

As stated in one of my earlier posts,I see no problem with the roller material i have been using the Fast filer guide for more than six months and everything is holding up well
they are inexpensive,accurate and make cutting wood easy.

 

[Little Al]

Are the Fast filer tool available for sale ( to obtain in or to Europe) & some idea of price?

 

[axeandwedge]

I believe some are available on ebay,
At the moment demand is greater than supply ,I know some were sent to the UK,around June..we pay around 48 Au dollars for a fast filer.
Give me a day or two I might just be able to shed more light on the availability of these

Sent from my HTC_0P6B using Tapatalk

 

[LegDeLimber]

I have the FF1 stihl guide. Yes , you use the simple file guide in conjunction with it and it fits right in the slot for perfect angles. The only problem with it is that it sticks ....the metal on metal sliding is not smooth at all, even if I oil it before use. It's hard to get the file pulled back consistantly into the tooth without wrestling with it on every tooth. Maybe I need to try a different lube, I just used 3 in 1 oil.....maybe some grease would be better.

Could I suggest trying a dry type lube.
Something like Graphite? (is dry Teflon still around??)
Just be certain it the new lube does NOT
use ANY oily or otherwise sticky vehicle to aid its application.

Some lubes may use an evaporating solvent to help spread/spray
the lube.
But I would suggest to try a test spray on a totally clean surface
and then (after appropriate time ) check for complete evaporation
of the liquid/wetness.
Gotta make certain that Nothing sticky, gets left by the product in question!!

Also remember that anything used inside of a hole or slider/tube
Will take a little longer to evaporate out!
So Don't jump the gun and use the jig while it's still wet inside.

Anything wet or oily, greasy will catch the filing fluff, etc.
So of course you'll need to absolutely remove ALL traces of the old lube & detritus, Before applying the dry lube.

Unfortunately, any sort of filing or sanding, grinding....
will always result in some stray particulates!!
So even with the dry lube, You'll still need to occasionally clean out the sliding parts.

and Happy Filing,......hopefully.

 

[Del_]

Just got a 3/8" Fast Filer in the other day. Seems to work fine and did two chains but have not cut with either one yet. I've been wearing 3X jewelers glasses for years now when sharpening and they really help.

I free hand file and also use Pferd filing guides.

I like the Fast Filer and hope it turns out to be as good as it looks like it is going to be.

A perfect chain is a term I made up to describe a chain that has an equal number of left and right cutters and no extra tie straps where the loop is joined. Stihl 20" 3/8 chains work out to a 'perfect' chain.

I've got an 026 with a 16" bar that does not work out to be a 'perfect' chain and noticed that where the loop is joined that the Fast Filer has not tooth in front of it to support is when in use. I have to hand hold the Fast Filer for just this one tooth or else it goes deep until resting on tie straps.

 

[Philbert]

I was taught that a 'perfect chain' is one where the number of drive links is divisible by 4 (40, 60, 80, etc.). 67DL on a 026 with .325 chain is off by one.

Of course, this only works with full comp chain; drive links on skip tooth chain loops have to be divisible by 6.

Some other sharpening guides, such as the Pferd / STIHL 2 in 1 file guides, also require adjacent cutters to work properly.

Philbert

 

[Del_]

Some other sharpening guides, such as the Pferd / STIHL 2 in 1 file guides, also require adjacent cutters to work properly.

Philbert

That is good to know because when sharpening it's easy to get into 'auto' mode and not realize that the file guide isn't being supported correctly by the chain before giving it a few strokes and it not feeling right.

Probably the best place to start on a chain is at the abnormal points.

I must of heard the term 'perfect chain' somewhere and then claimed it as my own!

 

[Dugndeep]

I just bought the 3/16" fast filer yesterday off Ebay for $19.95 and hope it works as good as the video.The Timberline sharpener would be the best I have seen so far but the $132 dollar price tag turned me against it considering I don't use my chainsaw everyday.Just bought a new 20" chainsaw hoping to try my hand at milling and am trying to just get ready for that,be another year before I buy or weld up my milling apparatus to go on my chainsaw.I'm just looking at consistency in sharpening a chain at the moment.

 

[Philbert]

Please post your comments and experience with it after you have had a chance to try it a bit.

Thanks.

Philbert

 

[Dugndeep]

Please post your comments and experience with it after you have had a chance to try it a bit.

Thanks.

Philbert

I will but it might be a while unless I dull the new chain right off the bat by hitting the ground,rock,hidden nail or bullet.Like I said earlier,I just want something consistent especially when I try my hand at milling but that's a ways off for now.

 

[Philbert]

we'll be here . . . .

Philbert

 

[Dugndeep]

I'm a novice at the technical side to sharpening a chain,I don't heat with wood but need a chainsaw for those occasional storms that blow trees down or clearing some area here on the farm and mainly have free hand sharpened chains.My dad splurged and bought one of those electric powered gizmo's and we both decided it just took off too much and I never used it and I think he only used it 3 times and it sets in a box in the barn probably never to see daylight again.Just trying to free hand sharpen a chain and keep all the angle's just right,that's why I never got to technical with it because there's no way to keep all angle's right until now I hope.I'm hoping this Fast Filer is the answer and we'll see if it holds true.
Philbert- are you using the files that come with it or your own?Reason I ask,from the pictures it looks like the flat file is cutting into the vertical rollers and was wondering if the flat file that comes with the Fast filer has teeth on the sides of the flat file?I know most flat files have teeth on the sides but are they needed with the Fast Filer.

 

[Philbert]

My dad splurged and bought one of those electric powered gizmo's . . . it sets in a box in the barn probably never to see daylight again.

We have a 'Trading Post' for things like that! CraigsList is another option.

Just trying to free hand sharpen a chain and keep all the angle's just right.

There are 3 angles to keep straight: the top plate angle ('A' - typically around 30°); the top plate cutting edge / bevel ('C' - typically determined by the diameter of the file 'x', and the height that it is held); and the 'down angle' ('B' - typically 0° or 10°). You also need to keep the cutters the same length and adjust the depth gauges ('D' - 'rakers'). Whew!



Different types of filing gauges help to control one or more of these variables. The clamp on Granberg style guides provide the most control, but take a little more time to set up.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/

These Fast Filers are designed to help control: top plate angle; file depth; down angle; and cutter length.

Different folks find different guides or methods that they like, or feel comfortable with. As long as they find something that works for them.

Philbert- are you using the files that come with it or your own?Reason I ask,from the pictures it looks like the flat file is cutting into the vertical rollers and was wondering if the flat file that comes with the Fast filer has teeth on the sides of the flat file?

I only received the factory files with one size, and used standard chainsaw files with the others. I only tried the Fast-Filers a little, to see how they worked, and to report here. Wear of the plastic rollers and components is something I would like to hear about from guys who use them more.

Hardware store flat files typically have teeth on all four sides and edges. Depth gauge files for saw chain are typically 'safe files', with teeth on the flat sides only. This is to reduce the risk of damaging your new cutting edges when filing the depth gauges. The flat file I received with the Fast Filer does not have teeth on the small edges, but is not as smooth as some other depth gauge files.

Philbert

 

[SawTroll]

They look very interesting. Thanks for the write up. I may have to try one out....really like the vertical rollers that the Huskvarna roller guides lack.

To me, those rollers and the "set" top plate angle is a serious drawback + the guide doesn't let you properly see what you are doing. For someone that knows nothing about proper chain sharpening it could be a decent help though?

A "set" cutter length also is a problem with anything but new chain, but it looks like you don't have to use that function? What effect will that have on the raker settings? They need to vary (progressively) with the cutter length....

Are the raker guides progressive at all? It doesn't look that way, and then it is virtually useless on anything but new chain!

 

[Dugndeep]

I was going to get the Granberg G-106B until I seen this one.Fast filer just seemed it would be easier to use out in the woods if the need arises to sharpen your chain.The plastic parts on the Oregon(similar to Granberg) turned me against it.
As for the electric gizmo,I think it's made by Oregon,I wouldn't feel right making a dollar or two off someone for our mistake of buying it so in the barn shed it will set.

 

[Dugndeep]

To me, those rollers and the "set" top plate angle is a serious drawback + the guide doesn't let you properly see what you are doing. For someone that knows nothing about proper chain sharpening it could be a decent help though?

A "set" cutter length also is a problem with anything but new chain, but it looks like you don't have to use that function? What effect will that have on the raker settings? They need to vary (progressively) with the cutter length....

Are the raker guides progressive at all? It doesn't look that way, and then it is virtually useless on anything but new chain!

Because it is a new saw and chain I'm hoping it will work in keeping it cutting like a new chain.The chain is a Carlton K2 I do believe that come on the saw.