Felling advice - split & hung up

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I use a bowline knot when pulling high - allows it to travel up and still be able to untie when done.

Rope supply is rigging line that I can run through the Maasdam puller so still relatively light in the grand scheme of things. It's Samson 1/2" three-strand rated at 5,700.

Need to get synthetic like they use on the winches now!
I have a 150' long piece of 1/2" Amsteel that has a thimble on each end. The end that goes on the tractor has chain and a hook, the other end has a heavy clevis that I use. threaded part of the clevis goes through the thimble, the body of the clevis goes around the rope. I have the last 8'-10' of the rope wrapped with an anti-chafe sleeve. It doesn't stretch, and it's STRONG. I have no fear of breaking it, the 65hp 4wd JD will spin the tires before the rope breaks. I bought a big bull rope, a large stainless steel pulley and can use that to direct the pull in any direction - I don't need a straight pull with the tractor.

Yes, I use the throw bag with speed line to get it up in the tree. Everything coils up and stores in a 5 gal bucket. If you get one of those snap on/screw on lids, it's the perfect carrying container for it, even the throw bag/speed like fits in the bucket.
 
Hi all - I need some advice and have learned so much from you all over the years increasing my skills in bringing down trees safely and effectively. I have done many against the lean, on target around difficult obstacles, OR majorly hung, and am comfortable with almost anything but climbing! :p I do spend time thinking it through and am fortunate that I don't have to do stuff in a hurry.

A recent wind storm split this cherry and it got caught in another really nice one. I don't like the look of the stresses in it (obviously). IMO - my best alternative is to throw a long line to the Y split and pull it 180' to the good tree with either with my Maasdam puller or very likely my tractor and it should come down. I could chain/strap it together, but it is sure to kick out so I don't think cutting or sectioning it down is an option as it sits.

I would like your thoughts...Thanks!
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well... I don't know who started this cut, but punch them in the squishy bits for me.

Explosives are fun..., but probably not going to help with this unless you have a clue about shaped charges. Tannerite is alright and all, but its really not very good at this sort of thing, Det cord is better, but much harder to source... (involves some inappropriate touching by the ATF, and their not even friendly about it YOU HAVE TO BUY THEM DINNER WTF)

So to solve this, some ******* needs to finish cutting it off the stump, I suggest a fast saw and a long bar with good running shoes, but first at least put the attempt of a face cut in it, even just a kerf at this point, then dust off the back side being ready to run screaming at any minute.

once its free, if it doesn't fall on its own, THIS PART IS IMPORTANT, hook a chain/choker to the bottom, AS LOW AS POSSIBLE, so that it wants to roll the stem and slide the butt out and away from the tree its hung up in, use a lot of rope, more rope then tree so that if it does flip on you, you are well out of stomping range, use a good heavy 4x4 truck or a good strong winch.

there are a whole slew of folks that have/will tell you to hook a rope up high, this guarantees that the tree falls over, and towards the pulling vehicle/poor SOB driving said vehicle, its far better, and easier really, to pull the bottom out and let the big dangerous part fall AWAY FROM YOU.

As for my original point of violence to the smelly parts... had someone put a face cut in this tree, and actually took the time to aim it and fall it even remotely properly, this likely wouldn't be an issue.
 
well... I don't know who started this cut, but punch them in the squishy bits for me.

Explosives are fun..., but probably not going to help with this unless you have a clue about shaped charges. Tannerite is alright and all, but its really not very good at this sort of thing, Det cord is better, but much harder to source... (involves some inappropriate touching by the ATF, and their not even friendly about it YOU HAVE TO BUY THEM DINNER WTF)

So to solve this, some ******* needs to finish cutting it off the stump, I suggest a fast saw and a long bar with good running shoes, but first at least put the attempt of a face cut in it, even just a kerf at this point, then dust off the back side being ready to run screaming at any minute.

once its free, if it doesn't fall on its own, THIS PART IS IMPORTANT, hook a chain/choker to the bottom, AS LOW AS POSSIBLE, so that it wants to roll the stem and slide the butt out and away from the tree its hung up in, use a lot of rope, more rope then tree so that if it does flip on you, you are well out of stomping range, use a good heavy 4x4 truck or a good strong winch.

there are a whole slew of folks that have/will tell you to hook a rope up high, this guarantees that the tree falls over, and towards the pulling vehicle/poor SOB driving said vehicle, its far better, and easier really, to pull the bottom out and let the big dangerous part fall AWAY FROM YOU.

As for my original point of violence to the smelly parts... had someone put a face cut in this tree, and actually took the time to aim it and fall it even remotely properly, this likely wouldn't be an issue.
I appreciate all of this.

I hear you... but that was NOT CUT and the weirdest thing I had ever seen. Those pics are as/is untouched tree. It broke like that during a storm. WTH, right...?

In the end, I ended up doing what you said and pulled it out from the base. I just don't have the right lines yet to match up with the power. Snatch block(s) & better line are in the works!
 
I thought I had posted my recent experience taking down an oak that was hung up high.

IMG_0660.jpg

I am not blessed with the class of equipment some of you folks have access to, but I do have a sling for a throw line,

IMG_0662.jpg

and an industrial strength come-along, a couple 100' static lines, a couple soft slings, and a 100' cable:

IMG_0663.jpg

As you mentioned, I never approach these in a hurry, so I made a good (and possibly lucky) shot first time with the sling, it actually went over the target tree, but also over the limb of the tree it was leaning on. I had to pull the throw line up, and let it drop after clearing the tree it was leaning on. Then I pulled one of my static lines up and over the leaner:


IMG_0661.jpg

Since the leaner was well hung, I decided to pull the cable up and over with the static line, so the rigging definitely took longer, but I was working alone (except my ever present French Brittany):

IMG_0664.jpg

Then it was just a matter of finding a good anchor tree at an appropriate distance and direction and setting my come-along:

IMG_0666.jpg

Because I didn't expect to have to pull it far to release it, I used the double hitch option on the come-along - twice the number of cranks, but half the effort on each pull. I was over 100' from the tree when I pulled it down, and Scout was tied to a tree behind me for even safer distance. It came down with no tractor, no TNT, and no real drama. I've since sectioned it, skidded to my processing piles, bucked it, split it and stacked it.

Good luck with your tree, safety first get it down
 
But we wanted to see you use TNT.

Curious, could you have used the same equipment and pulled it down from the bottom?

Ron
(Edit to add pictures of the tree - post cutting off the stub)
I didn't think to take a picture of the break point, but there was still plenty enough of solid wood holding on. It would have required sawing to make it so I could have broken it off. It was half of a double trunk oak and the sawing would have been at eye level. I didn't feel comfortable sawing above my shoulders on an unstable base. After it was down, I did go back and make a clean cut so, I could stroll out and take a picture now to show the height of the break, but not the actual break. It's a nice sunny day today, I'll do that, and take a picture of another, even taller break off on another leaner that I'll likely take down the same way.

This is the base of the leaner that was the subject of my prior post where I pulled it down from the top:

IMG_0780.jpg

And, here is a picture of another wind blown tree that is hung in a neighboring tree. This closer to 10'-12' from the base:

IMG_0782.jpg

This one might have gotten a healthy nudge by the top of the tree behind it that had the top broken out of it. That top and that topless pole will provide quite a bit of firewood before I'll line the foreground one down. In this case, it looks like I might be able to pull the bottom off the high stump, but that will not likely unsnag the top. I don't own a big enough tractor to pull it down, so that would mean multiple come-along hitch and pulls. I will probably throw a line up high and pull the snag off, assuming the bottom will come down then too. Either of these pulls will probably be next year, giving Mother Nature time to finish this job on her own.
 
Depending on the circumstances and available equipment, if you just wanted the tree down safely,
one option would possibly have been to build a big fire around the base of the tree or on the stump
and over several days maybe burn up the bottom tree base enough for the tree to finally fall.
 
That one in your picture broken up high is similar to my original post/situation and ask for advice.

FWIW Hindsite being 20/20 - My takeaway was the best course of action was NOT to use the tractor - rather multiple tie-offs and judicious use of tension. Maybe Check out the Maasdam rope pullers for future use?

FWIW I have a big one that is broken & hung @ about 20' at 45deg. It is about 30" at base and 100' high. Storms, high winds, and a couple of residual hurricanes have not brought it down yet. I don't use that area so I am in NOO hurry to mess with it!
 

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