First post- looking to get a beater 50cc saw

[joe25DA]

Tough question for me to answer. Even the saws Ive gotten that were really rough I don’t consider beaters. Once I get them repaired/rebuilt I take good care of them none get lent out except maybe to my dad or cousins but they can be trusted. Some good 50cc saw choices are
50-51-55 husky’s
346xp
Dolmar 540/makita 520i
Poulan 3450/PP330
All pro made saws mag case adjustable oil pump good antivibe and easy to work on. But I wouldn’t want to beat any of those.
I guess I’d go to a box store and buy a newer Poulan or Husqvarna clamshell saw, if the money was no object. Not like your beating on a good saw.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

The 353 and 359 and identical to the 346 and 357 respectively, besides the cylinders which makes the 346 and 357 pro models. I wouldn't shy away from any of them, but if you wanted 3/8 pulling power I wouldn't be after the 353 or 346.

Agree 100% apart from you forgot the 357 crank stuffers that the 359 does not have- but to call the 359 a Rancher is blasphemy, just because it does not have XP in the model number doesn't mean it is some kind of plastic cased slug.

 

[Woodslasher]

The only one I've worked on was a pita! There's just too many potential air leaks, the piss-poor clamshell/regular cylinder hybrid design, I just hate 'em.
@Mangoman82 I'd suggest putting a wide-discharge cover on the 461, as well as a prefilter. If you want, I've got a 461 hd filter with a prefilter I'd let you have for the cost of shipping. Another thought is you could put a Maxflow kit on your 461, local guys swear by them on their Stihls.

I recant what I said, I got the 350 running and it is pretty slick, I like it.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I recant what I said, I got the 350 running and it is pretty slick, I like it.

So do I. I bought two used Husky 350's and restored both of them. They run fine today and back up my 353 and my vintage 51 that I rebuilt after a friend gave it to me as a non-runner. Now it also runs fine.

 

[J D]

Agree 100% apart from you forgot the 357 crank stuffers that the 359 does not have- but to call the 359 a Rancher is blasphemy, just because it does not have XP in the model number doesn't mean it is some kind of plastic cased slug.

I agree, probably should've just said semi pro (or lower end pro saw) & left it at that. The 359 really is a great saw.
FWIW I got my 357 wearing a 20" bar & running 3/8 skip tooth chain. I put a 18" bar on it running 3/8 full comp & it was fine, but now run an 18" .325 combo. While not quite as aggressive, I find it's smoother & better for limbing. If I'm bucking anything decent the 385 comes out anyway, but if I only had the one saw (one saw... just saying that in my head made me chuckle a bit) I wouldn't hesitate to put it back to 3/8

 

[Clyde85]

I remember when I only had one saw. I am never going back there again. Thank God for cad.

 

[Fatherwheels]

Here is a super nice saw
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/346xp-ne-pho.353629/#post-7557755

 

[sean donato]

Agree 100% apart from you forgot the 357 crank stuffers that the 359 does not have- but to call the 359 a Rancher is blasphemy, just because it does not have XP in the model number doesn't mean it is some kind of plastic cased slug.

I forgot about the crank stuffer. Thanks!

 

[sean donato]

I agree, probably should've just said semi pro (or lower end pro saw) & left it at that. The 359 really is a great saw.
FWIW I got my 357 wearing a 20" bar & running 3/8 skip tooth chain. I put a 18" bar on it running 3/8 full comp & it was fine, but now run an 18" .325 combo. While not quite as aggressive, I find it's smoother & better for limbing. If I'm bucking anything decent the 385 comes out anyway, but if I only had the one saw (one saw... just saying that in my head made me chuckle a bit) I wouldn't hesitate to put it back to 3/8

Have 18" 3/8 full comp on mine. Runs lovely with muff mod, minor port work and base gasket delete on one of those hybrid cylinders. (59cc closed port) don't think it would have an issue with a 20" on it.

 

[GeorgiaVol]

From his description for a cheaper, used,pro grade, beater saw, I would think the 357 is near the top of that list.
Plenty around, easy to work on, parts are plentiful, good power for the size, reasonably priced compared to similar pro grade saws, can handle a 3/8 chain.

 

[Jasonrkba]

OP, does the sprocket cover still have the deflector on it?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I agree, probably should've just said semi pro (or lower end pro saw) & left it at that. The 359 really is a great saw.
FWIW I got my 357 wearing a 20" bar & running 3/8 skip tooth chain. I put a 18" bar on it running 3/8 full comp & it was fine, but now run an 18" .325 combo. While not quite as aggressive, I find it's smoother & better for limbing. If I'm bucking anything decent the 385 comes out anyway, but if I only had the one saw (one saw... just saying that in my head made me chuckle a bit) I wouldn't hesitate to put it back to 3/8

So your 385 is just a semi pro 390 then?
The 357, 359 or their better looking Jonsered cousins are very capable of utilising standard configuration 3/8 chain on a 20 inch bar for anything likely to be cut in NZ.
If I had to revert to just one saw, I would be happy enough with my 2159 and a 20 inch bar wearing 3/8 standard chisel tooth chain to cover everything I would need in the way of a firewood gatherer.

 

[joe25DA]

Keeping a sharp chain is number 1 for all saws, rpm, closed transfer ports, superchargers won’t matter much if your making dust. That said, I don’t use .325” on anything anymore. My 50cc saws have 16” bars and 3/8” and I’ve never regretted it. My first new dolmar 540 had .325” until I swapped it, the next 2 came with 3/8”. Most Homelite Super EZ saws were sent with 3/8”, those are 41cc. Of course when those saws came out there was no .325” yet I don’t think. I have 3/8”lp on my small saws and I only have 2. My 42 special wears 3/8” LP on a 16” bar. My S25DA saws use the same. Homelite SEZ and up 3/8”.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I like my little 54cc mag poulans for my go to small saws anymore. These 3.3's are same as a 335 predator.

Sold a bunch of them local and online to folks too.

 

[Pioneer]

Ditto on the Husqvarna 55. Reliable, simple, very easy to work on. With a basic muffler mod and 3/8 full chisel on an 18-in bar, it has no problem with hardwood.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Here is a super nice saw
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/346xp-ne-pho.353629/#post-7557755

425$ is cheap? Jesus I'm poor! I cut firewood for 2 years with a 35.00 Pro Mac 10-10.

 

[Fatherwheels]

425$ is cheap? Jesus I'm poor! I cut firewood for 2 years with a 35.00 Pro Mac 10-10.

It is cheaper than buying a new quality saw. We would all buy a cheap saw but
no one will sell us one, other than junk we don't need. So either buy or cry.
There is a clean Makita DCS520 for sale in my area, 14 years old, he wants 300.00,
that's over half the price of a new Oleo-Mac of similar or larger size, both straight carb saws,
but parts are available for the new one, so I passed on the Makita even though i like them, its too expensive for what it is.
Well unless he wants to take 35.00 for it, some hope of that happening.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Here's my Makita 520i with an 18" bar that starts and runs fine with lots of power for its weight:

My only complaints are that the chain brake engages a bit too easily and it poops bar oil when resting. I live with both "ailments" because the saw starts and runs so well. No one seems to know why the chain brake has a hair trigger or how to adjust it. Suggestions welcome on either ailment.

 

[Fatherwheels]

They certainly have that well built look about them, I wouldn't mind one at the right price.

 

[WoodChuck'r]

046 with a D cylinder and 8” bar - fuel mix should be coleman camp fuel with mayonnaise @ 40:1