Flue pipe Question

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Cacciatore1981

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Hello, when I moved into my house there was a wood stove with a tee and a clean out cap that came straight out of stove , I used it for multiple years and don't believe I'm losing any heat and not noticing any smoke from it, I just recently bought a new stove wood/coal and Don't plan on installing a barometric damper, I will just need to trim some pipe off to make it fit on new stove. I overthink things and don't see any negative on keeping the tee, but what do you guys think, would you just eliminate the tee and put a straight piece in while you were transitioning or save the $ and keep the tee? ( I will be burning primarily wood , and on occasion coal) thanks in advance and God bless.
 

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I agree, yes I was looking at the telescoping pipe. The new stove is a Hitzer 254 , seems like a solid good stove. Has a metal plate on top that you simply slide down to clean pipe from top down.
 
You need the draft damper when burning coal if it's anything like my furnace. There are specs for what it should be and likely it will over draft on coal. I found this excerpt from the installation manual to the furnace referenced above.
My furnace doesn't burn coal very well so I exclusively burn wood in it, and still need the damper to keep from over draft. One of the worst things that can happen to a coal stove/furnace is an over fire.
 

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I know nothing about coal so no help there. I put the current stove in 22 years ago. I have no damper, no T cleanout and it still has the original cheap black pipe from Menards. When you burn quality dry wood you should not have issues with a modern stove.
 
Sean, this Hitzer 254 has damper control, open to 75 % closed , that's the lever that you see on top above window.
Thats a flue damper. The flue damper and draft damper do different functions.
The flue damper is used to limit "air" out of the combustion chamber, just like a inline damper. It's acts more like a throttle of sorts for burn control.

The draft damper(barometric draft damper) limits how much "air" the chimney can "suck" out of the furnace. (I'm using very generic terms) Say you have heavy gusts of wind, the wind passing over the chimney can cause it to draft harder, which inturn will increase the amount of air flowing into the combustion chamber of the stove. The draft damper swing open a bit and allows air from the room to enter the chimney keeping your maximum draft in a preset rage to keep the furnace from over firing. When it's done it just swings back to the closed position.
The screen shot I put up above is from the hitzer 254 installation manual. It reccomend the maximum and minimum amount of draft via using a manometer.
 
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