Got My First Poulon Wild Things!

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With only the one check valve, it must supply both circuits, that's a different carb model than is usually found on these saws, have seen it on some of the newer Homelites. One less check valve is a good thing. I have seen a lot of strange ways to find the purge tubing routed, usually they are just backwards but this is a new one and surprisingly it should work well as the check valves in the purge bulb are both pointing in the right direction. Not good though, as the fuel pump will have to suck fuel through it during normal running and it will just become another restriction and possible source of air leak in the fuel line. You are right about the way it should be hooked up.
After some more thought it would appear that someone else replaced the fuel hoses previously and plumbed it up backwards. While the saw may run like this the primer won't work at all. The primer can't push fuel into the carb (unless the needle is leaking). It can only suck it through from the metering side. This also explains the small amount of crud that I found in the carb screen even though the fuel line and filter were intact.
 
After some more thought it would appear that someone else replaced the fuel hoses previously and plumbed it up backwards. While the saw may run like this the primer won't work at all. The primer can't push fuel into the carb (unless the needle is leaking). It can only suck it through from the metering side. This also explains the small amount of crud that I found in the carb screen even though the fuel line and filter were intact.
You are right. Slipped my brain that the primer was trying to force fuel into the carb against the inlet valve, reminds me of a post awhile back where a guy who claimed to be an Echo tech was telling everyone that the primer worked by pressurizing the fuel tank and thus forcing fuel into the carb, once again, can't do it unless you exceed the pop-off pressure of the inlet valve.
 
You are right. Slipped my brain that the primer was trying to force fuel into the carb against the inlet valve, reminds me of a post awhile back where a guy who claimed to be an Echo tech was telling everyone that the primer worked by pressurizing the fuel tank and thus forcing fuel into the carb, once again, can't do it unless you exceed the pop-off pressure of the inlet valve.
Well, I took a look at the 1950 Woodshark this afternoon and lo and behold the fuel plumbing was considerably screwed up on that one as well. This time it was in a way that the saw couldn't run. I guess that is one way that these saws die... The fuel lines rot away and then the saws get re-plumbed incorrectly and get put on a shelf until the new hoses rot out and the saw gets thrown out or given away.
 
Well, I took a look at the 1950 Woodshark this afternoon and lo and behold the fuel plumbing was considerably screwed up on that one as well. This time it was in a way that the saw couldn't run. I guess that is one way that these saws die... The fuel lines rot away and then the saws get re-plumbed incorrectly and get put on a shelf until the new hoses rot out and the saw gets thrown out or given away.
After Hurricane Sally i dealt with this. Putting aside my rule of not repairing these saws temporarily, for the good of the community. Most came in with the lines backwards

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 
After Hurricane Sally i dealt with this. Putting aside my rule of not repairing these saws temporarily, for the good of the community. Most came in with the lines backwards

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
If the manuals referred to these things as "purge" bulbs owners might get a better understanding of how to plumb them. When they keep being called "primers" owners think they are supposed to actually squirt fuel into the engine. Of course that would only apply to owners that read manuals.
 
Its Alive! For anyone else wishing to resurrect one of these...

1. Enlarge the muffler openings to about 0.25 sq.in. total. (see photo. Thanks @scottr for the photo and some other suggestions)
1a. I enlarged the 12 holes in the muffler diffuser to 3/16".
2. The good Tygon Fuel line (3/16" O.D.) is part number AAG00165. You can find this at your local dealer or maybe even NAPA.
3. Don't assume that the fuel hose routing that you may find is actually correct. 2 out of 2 of these was wrong!
4. Enlarge the tank opening and make the purge lines the same as the fuel line. No need for the smaller .140" x .080" stuff.
5. I have the saw currently tuned to 12.2K which sounds really rich. Have to really lean on it to get it to clean up. I don't know if this is because of the muffler mod or if this saw is designed to run considerably higher.
6. IPL and owners manuals are available on the Poulanpro.com website.
7. Chain has been upgraded to Oregon 91VXL 3/8" LP x .050"
 

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What about the other two ? Don't stop now.
Well the other two have more issues... Would need B & C for both. Neither have chain brakes. One has a busted clutch cover. Both need carb kits (at least), primer bulbs, and fuel hoses. I think I may gift these to someone who has more dollars than sense!

My neighbor across the street used to have a Wild Thing. It died mostly from cutting with a dull chain and leaving fuel in it. He "upgraded" to a Poulan Pro. I didn't have the heart to tell him that his yellow and black Poulan Pro was basically the same as his previous Wild Thing. They must have made boat loads of these with different color schemes (and few substantive changes/improvements).
 
Well the other two have more issues... Would need B & C for both. Neither have chain brakes. One has a busted clutch cover. Both need carb kits (at least), primer bulbs, and fuel hoses. I think I may gift these to someone who has more dollars than sense!

My neighbor across the street used to have a Wild Thing. It died mostly from cutting with a dull chain and leaving fuel in it. He "upgraded" to a Poulan Pro. I didn't have the heart to tell him that his yellow and black Poulan Pro was basically the same as his previous Wild Thing. They must have made boat loads of these with different color schemes (and few substantive changes/improvements).
Top end rebuilds with chinese parts are really cheap and about all these saws deserve but is you have to buy OM parts they aren't worth it, main reason why a lot of these saws end up in the dumpster. Your neighbour might actually have a better saw, the Pro models have a chrome plated cylinder (non Pro's don't) so if they are properly tuned, they last longer. It also has good AV mounts but, on the other hand, it's a strato saw so it will hold a tune for about 6 days.
 
Last wild thing i flipped was a good runner. Basically did most of what you mentioned. I cut a little firewood to test then sold it. The guy who bought it said it ran like a bat out of hell for a little bit then just froze up. I asked him what kind of gas he used and he said 87 octane. smh
 
Last wild thing i flipped was a good runner. Basically did most of what you mentioned. I cut a little firewood to test then sold it. The guy who bought it said it ran like a bat out of hell for a little bit then just froze up. I asked him what kind of gas he used and he said 87 octane. smh
Just curious... How much were you able to sell it for? These thing just sit on the local CL... even rebuilt ones.

I think that these got such a bad reputation from the boneheads that bought them and abused them to death that Poulan had to change the names and color scheme to continue to sell product.
 
I've got a Poulan that is a 3914...it is a 42 cc saw that they labeled 39 cc for some reason.... this saw hasn't cut for more then 10 minutes but I can't get 60 dollars for it. I'm going to put an 18 inch bar and chain on it and keep it for a spare? loaner?....
 
I've got a Poulan that is a 3914...it is a 42 cc saw that they labeled 39 cc for some reason.... this saw hasn't cut for more then 10 minutes but I can't get 60 dollars for it. I'm going to put an 18 inch bar and chain on it and keep it for a spare? loaner?....
It turns out that the friend that I was fixing this for had just bought another new home owner saw. So now it looks like I have a loaner / spare in the stable.
 
I've got a Poulan that is a 3914...it is a 42 cc saw that they labeled 39 cc for some reason.... this saw hasn't cut for more then 10 minutes but I can't get 60 dollars for it. I'm going to put an 18 inch bar and chain on it and keep it for a spare? loaner?....

I have not heard of a 3914 but have heard of a 3414 .
My PP220 has a starter side decal that says 38cc but the back epa compliance decal says 42cc .
 
I have not heard of a 3914 but have heard of a 3414 .
My PP220 has a starter side decal that says 38cc but the back epa compliance decal says 42cc .
Regardless of the labels on the covers, there are really only two sizes of those saws, a 35cc and a 42cc and they all use the same crankshaft. The marketing lads have decided that the length of the bar should determine what the advertised engine size should be. The EPA label gives the actual size of the engine.
 
I burn firewood exclusively for heat and sell a significant amount of firewood per year. I have an extensive collection of Stihl saws. I bought a wild thing at a garage sale for $5 15 years ago. The previous owner was using it to cut antlers out of deer skulls and the hair/flesh was there to verify it. He thought it seized up but the recoil was actually what was locked up. That saw has cut more tons of Michigan Ash than I could ever begin to count. Parts are cheap, It literally always starts no matter how cold it is, I keep it in the toolbox of my truck, it has cut my other saws out of pinched bars I dont know how many times. My buddies make fun of me for owning it but I love that fn thing. Just recently bought a mint one in the case for $20 from a coworker that didnt run and was cutting wood with it 20 minutes after I got home.
 

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