Great deal on a Craftsman Riding Mower

[user 122190]

I picked this up a few weeks ago, and such a deal. $100 and it was mine.

It runs and does cut some grass. I will drop the mower deck and replace or sharpen the cutting blades in the spring of 2022.

A few days ago it would not start. With the multimeter I became pretty confident it was a problem with the ignition switch. I sprayed the area pretty good with some aerosol electrical contact cleaner and it now starts and runs just fine. I love finding and fixing these types of problems.

With my very old 10ft^3 dump trailer moving split wood and rubbish becomes a simple and fast job.

 

[user 122190]

Sitting all winter, since November, and the mower started right up.

Not bad for a 24yo $100 mower. With the Century Arc Welder I still need to tighten up the steering, and the front tires still have a slow leak. I’ll spray the belts with some belt dressing and the mower will be ready for work this coming season. I find it a better machine for hauling wood with the dump cart, and of course keeping the wild yard from from growing out of control. With the repaired mowing deck, it is ready to get to work. Tis all good.

 

[user 122190]

Another mower today. Doesn't run, or runs poorly. I expect electrical or carburetor cleaning should fix its problem. Guy was asking $250, but I got him to agree to $150. It is a T1200, like I had bought for $450 last year, cleaned up and sold for $1000. Hopefully I can repeat this. More seed money, and looking to purchase 3 or 4 more like this, this spring and summer. Then I will be looking for some logging/firewood equipment that is to normally to costly for me to consider. A tree pusher would be nice.

 

[djg james]

Another mower today. Doesn't run, or runs poorly. I expect electrical or carburetor cleaning should fix its problem. Guy was asking $250, but I got him to agree to $150. It is a T1200, like I had bought for $450 last year, cleaned up and sold for $1000. Hopefully I can repeat this. More seed money, and looking to purchase 3 or 4 more like this, this spring and summer. Then I will be looking for some logging/firewood equipment that is to normally to costly for me to consider. A tree pusher would be nice.

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Hey, that looks like mine which I bought new years ago. Transmission went out after two months and the kohler engine blows oil out the mufflers. Wouldn't buy another Craftsman new now a days (if available) but for $150....

 

[user 122190]

Hey, that looks like mine which I bought new years ago. Transmission went out after two months and the kohler engine blows oil out the mufflers. Wouldn't buy another Craftsman new now a days (if available) but for $150....

Yeah, these T series mowers are popular, because they are cheap. Lots of them around. Still hard to get at Lowes and Home Depot due to the Pandemic. Buy them used, clean them up, fix some issues and sell for a profit.

In my area it is John Deere and Craftsman (and their clones -- Toros). The Craftsman are used and abused and very inexpensive to purchase used. John Deeres' seem to be taken care of and sell for a premium. Profits are with the Craftsman mowers.

 

[djg james]

The muffler fell of this one also, so it's pretty loud. Bought new bolts for it but not sure if there's a gasket in there that was lost. I've got two of the older gray Craftsman with geared transmission and I loved it. They can pull my 5x8 trailer with wood in it. But they're both down with steering problems. Too much slop in steering. Poor design. Sector gear slips past the mating gear.

 

[user 122190]

The muffler fell of this one also, so it's pretty loud. Bought new bolts for it but not sure if there's a gasket in there that was lost. I've got two of the older gray Craftsman with geared transmission and I love. They can pull my 5x8 trailer with wood in it. But they're both down with steering problems. Too much slop in steering. Poor design. Sector gear slips past the mating gear.

I got the mower. Started right up for me. It stalled when I engaged the PTO, and the previous owner said that is the problem. Well I only had 1/2 throttle so no real surprise there. Got it home and repeated the PTO but at full throttle and it worked perfectly. Previous owner said he took it to someone 3 times and they could not fix it. Question is Fix What?

Machines tag says Date Of Manufacture is Aug2018, so it a rather new machine. WhoooHoooo.

I’ll give it a good look over tomorrow when the temps will be in the 60s and I give it a very good bath. I’m thinking this ones going to sell fast and for a good profit.

 

[Lanedrew]

Another mower today. Doesn't run, or runs poorly. I expect electrical or carburetor cleaning should fix its problem. Guy was asking $250, but I got him to agree to $150. It is a T1200, like I had bought for $450 last year, cleaned up and sold for $1000. Hopefully I can repeat this. More seed money, and looking to purchase 3 or 4 more like this, this spring and summer. Then I will be looking for some logging/firewood equipment that is to normally to costly for me to consider. A tree pusher would be nice.

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Does that mower have the single cylinder Kohler courage engine or the Briggs? The Kohler courage that they put in those cheap mowers like that are junk, I’ve seen too many problems with them to count, and they use 2 cheap plastic camshafts. Genius…

 

[djg james]

Does that mower have the single cylinder Kohler courage engine or the Briggs? The Kohler courage that they put in those cheap mowers like that are junk, I’ve seen too many problems with them to count, and they use 2 cheap plastic camshafts. Genius…

Mine is a twin and I think it is the 'Courage' model. Bought the mower specifically because it was a Kohler. Disappointing.

 

[user 122190]

Does that mower have the single cylinder Kohler courage engine or the Briggs? The Kohler courage that they put in those cheap mowers like that are junk, I’ve seen too many problems with them to count, and they use 2 cheap plastic camshafts. Genius…

I looked but have forgotten. Not a Kohler or I would remember. I have a Kohler Command in the other (Keeper) mower, and its a good one. In the new mower, it didn't sound right and I checked the oil. It was low, so low it didn't register on the dip stick. Topped it off and it sounds much better now.

 

[Sportfury70]

Lots of Husqvarna riders here, can be found free on CL pretty often. I’ve sold 3 of them so far, as well as a craftsman and an mtd. They are usually a basket case, but after a pressure wash, Amazon spindles and belts, basic tuneup and a new battery I sell them for 500-600. I average about a $100 on parts give or take. Between that and the early winter rush on free snowblowers that ppl can’t get started (always just a gummed you carb) I make decent change for other toys.

I don’t touch the ones that are missing mower decks or are just too far gone. Nonetheless they pop up weekly through the spring and summer. New England is the craziest place for that stuff. Lots of disposable income here I guess.

 

[Okie]

You can usually find a owners manual for those Craftsman mower on-line and the parts lists and how to replace belts and do adjustments is usually also inside the manual.
I just got through completely re-building the deck and some tractor parts on the first green one shown. Lots of replacement parts on flea bay and Amazon once you come up with a part number.

Just type your model number into the search bar requesting a OWNERS MANUAL, pdf.
Sometimes you will end up at Sears parts link for mowers and the owners manual is pictured for free download. I just save the manual to the computer and review/print only the pages I need. If it a keeper mower I sometimes copy the manuals to a CD or a usb flash drive. (backup for when the computer crashes)

 

[user 122190]

First cleaning done. Shined up like a bright new penny. Started nice and easy, and I took it for a mile ride and it is about perfect.

I'm thinking this is a $1000 mower. Nice little profit for spending $150 and another $50 for gas to go pick it up.

I'll go at it with the pressure washer one more time, and get under the wheel wells and there is still dog poop in the threads. Previous owners ran a kennel. Lots and lots of dogs, and their poop.

And I'll drop the mower deck and sharpen the cutters, and make sure there is no resistance to rotation, that caused it to bog at 1/2 throttle. I'll put another coat of Armorall on the plastics and apply a coat of wax on the paint. All in all, I'm quite happy with this.

 

[user 122190]

I was out testing the mower this morning. Engaging and disengaging the PTO, til finally it failed. The belt came off one of the pulleys. It had actually jumped a guard or was never properly routed. I put the belt back on and did all my tests again, and again, and again, and it seems to be holding. Odd. I already have someone interested in the mower, but I might have to tell them to wait a bit. I'll drop the mower deck and see what is going on, or it might be fixed for good. In my probing the belt routing, it seems that the belt is loose. I might go get a slightly shorter belt, an inch or two might make a real difference.

 

[Okie]

Post up a Sears/Craftsman model number and maybe we can help you with that rig.
or better yet a link to download the owners manual????????????

Some hints without knowing the model number about deck belt coming off.

No need in spending big bucks on a new belt UNLESS YOU definitely find the reason for jumping track because it will just chew up a new belt.
Seen a guy recently junk out a really nice Cub Cadet that he bought used because it would chew and throw the NEW deck belts he kept installing. One of the deck idler pulley was wrong one from a previous Bubba owner..

When you get the deck off measure the length of the existing belt. I use a cloth upholster tape about 6 ft long, $3 at Wal-mart sewing section and try to get the 1 inch wide one vs 3/4 inch as more user friendly) to get most precise OD length such as this one then look at the owners manual parts list and get the part number and look on flea bay or on-line to see if it has the correct length belt. Used belt may be 1/2 inch longer. I like to use Kevlar belts for my own use, but if you are go to sell just get the correct length regular belt x correct width and length. Also use the tape and check the length of the new belt BEFORE installing. (I often see new belts now days not the correct length per their specs and can be returned if not used)
Next check the deck idlers and bearings and spindle pulleys and spindle shafts for wear or anything that might seize after running awhile. I also usually remove the spindle shaft and bearings (leaving the spindle housing on the deck) and pop out the bearing seals and pack with grease then pop the seal back in. On the idlers I have a grease gun vaccinating needle and I pierce the bearing seal on the bottom side and grease. You can then apply a permatex sealant over the little pierced hole if desired. Make sure all belt guides are in proper place especially at the motor pulley and at the idlers on the deck. Sometimes the belt keepers on the deck will become bent and cut into the back side of the belt making it jump track.
The answer to a belt jumping off IS NOT purposely installing a 1-2 inch shorter belt.

link to the type tape measure:

 

[user 122190]

Post up a Sears/Craftsman model number and maybe we can help you with that rig.
or better yet a link to download the owners manual????????????

Some hints without knowing the model number about deck belt coming off.

No need in spending big bucks on a new belt UNLESS YOU definitely find the reason for jumping track because it will just chew up a new belt.
Seen a guy recently junk out a really nice Cub Cadet that he bought used because it would chew and throw the NEW deck belts he kept installing. One of the deck idler pulley was wrong one from a previous Bubba owner..

When you get the deck off measure the length of the existing belt. I use a cloth upholster tape about 6 ft long, $3 at Wal-mart sewing section and try to get the 1 inch wide one vs 3/4 inch as more user friendly) to get most precise OD length such as this one then look at the owners manual parts list and get the part number and look on flea bay or on-line to see if it has the correct length belt. Used belt may be 1/2 inch longer. I like to use Kevlar belts for my own use, but if you are go to sell just get the correct length regular belt x correct width and length. Also use the tape and check the length of the new belt BEFORE installing. (I often see new belts now days not the correct length per their specs and can be returned if not used)
Next check the deck idlers and bearings and spindle pulleys and spindle shafts for wear or anything that might seize after running awhile. I also usually remove the spindle shaft and bearings (leaving the spindle housing on the deck) and pop out the bearing seals and pack with grease then pop the seal back in. On the idlers I have a grease gun vaccinating needle and I pierce the bearing seal on the bottom side and grease. You can then apply a permatex sealant over the little pierced hole if desired. Make sure all belt guides are in proper place especially at the motor pulley and at the idlers on the deck. Sometimes the belt keepers on the deck will become bent and cut into the back side of the belt making it jump track.
The answer to a belt jumping off IS NOT purposely installing a 1-2 inch shorter belt.

link to the type tape measure:

I got to thinking about it, and the belt jump off the pulleys when I had the deck at its lowest height. At that height it is almost dragging on the ground. Way way to low for the rocky ground here. Seems like a height for a putting green. On my other mower, there is a screw adjustment that controls the range of the deck adjust-ability. I have it set so there is no adjustment -- its always at max height. I'll test out this theory tomorrow and if that is the case I'll just sell it as is, with the caution of lowering the deck.

In my looking at the deck and its belt and pulleys, it is all in good condition. I saw no chewing of the belt. It might be new.

Basically, I'm looking for problems, because the previous owner said there were problems, and I don't want to sell someone something at top dollar that isn't as good as I can make it. I'm almost there.

 

[Okie]

This is in the owners manual under ADJUSTMENTS for those type mower:
That mower will have a depth drop adjustment. and also a deck leveling adj from side to side.
Also the correct deck drop should be about 2 in from the blade to the floor when at lowest and the rear of blade tip about 1/8 to 1/4 inch higher then the front with the blade point fore and aft when measuring with correct air pressure in the tires. (make sure it has the correct size tires still on the rig. Sometimes prev owners will buy used tires and rims and install different than OEM on the tractor and deck adjustments will be way off the chart and result in belts jumping if they try to change OEM adjustments.
Look in the owners manual. (It states these adjustments)
Also the plastic gauge wheels should be about 1/2 inch off the floor with deck at it's lowest desired position. The mower carries the gauge wheels when on level ground and mowing at the lowest position.
If the rear of the deck is too high tilted where the rear of the blade tip is too high vs the front of the blade tip the front idler pulleys on the deck can get to high of an attack angle and the belt will jump. Also a weak idler pulley spring (or wrong spring) won't keep enough tension on the belt idlers.
Right about the on the dash screw drop adjustment (user friendly).
Your might have the type adj that is only wrench adjustable on the hangers from underneath on each side and controls both the drop and the leveling side to side.

 

[Okie]

On some of the mowers that has the lift lever with the notched frame that still allow the deck to go too low I've purposely drilled a hole and installed a stop bolt so as the lift lever would not allow the deck to go to low. Decks that do not have a anti scalp roller on the front of the deck will scalp fast if ground is not level. Also some decks do not even have gauge wheels.
If a deck has gauge wheels and no lower limit adjust as to the lowest cutting height the gauge wheels can be set so as to temporary limit the lowest the blades will cut, BUT the plastic type gauge wheels are not designed to carry the weight load of a deck constantly. (and a set of some types of NEW gauge wheels are pricy)

 

[3000 FPS]

I have a couple of used mowers that bought on the cheap. One is a Craftsman like the green one you showed at the beginning of this thread. The other one is a John Deere. I have used the crap out of both of these mowers.
The Craftsman was free and the John Deere was 250. Both are work horses.

 

[user 122190]

I have a couple of used mowers that bought on the cheap. One is a Craftsman like the green one you showed at the beginning of this thread. The other one is a John Deere. I have used the crap out of both of these mowers.
The Craftsman was free and the John Deere was 250. Both are work horses.

Yeah the first one is my favorite. A very easy starting engine and is smooth, almost purrs. The front end is sloppy and noticeable when I make sharp turns. There looks to be no way to tighten it up, sans new parts. I finally broke down and bought and installed new tires all around. When it started right up in near freezing temps after sitting for ~6 months I knew the machine was worthy of some additional investment.

I get why these machines are so inexpensive as used machines. They operate in a harsh environment and some mechanical ability goes a long ways in keeping them running. Most people haven't the time, the tools, or patience to fix and keep these machines running.

As I was driving home with the Craftsman a few days ago, I was noticing off the highway several of these machines littering businesses and homes, like trash. People can't store them right, have multiple mowers cause they don't even have the time to go about selling the problematic mower. I'm thinking of doing door knocks and see if people want to sell the wreck abandoned at the side of their house.