Has anyone used one of these thread repair kits

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Henry E

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I never was a fan of heli-coil thread repair kits. I’d rather use a threaded insert which basically looks like a set screw with the inside threaded to match the thread that is damaged.

https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-inserts

I believe the M6 that Stihl uses are standard
M6 x 1.0.


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I never was a fan of heli-coil thread repair kits. I’d rather use a threaded insert which basically looks like a set screw with the inside threaded to match the thread that is damaged.

https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-inserts

I believe the M6 that Stihl uses are standard
M6 x 1.0.


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How is this different from a Heli-coil kit?
 
Iv had good luck and bad luck with heli coils. Used them a couple times of dirt bike cases but they seem to come out sometimes when removing the bolt or stud you used them on.

The ones Allen k is talking about iv always called timeserts idk why that’s what my dad called them. Iv has better luck with them.
 
The kit I liked to is helicoil. I was wondering if it is Chinese low quality or decent.
 
How is this different from a Heli-coil kit?

Helicoils are basically a spring. They require a special pitch/diameter tap and drill. Because they are like a spring, they are not solid and can sometimes work loose. They rely on the spring tension to hold themselves in place. Because they require a special size tap you must always have that tap.
The threaded inserts are solid metal and use a standard size drill and tap. They rely on knurling or permanent thread locker to stay in place. I find them highly reliable and rarely if ever become loose.
That is my experience. Others may have success with helicoils. I don’t like having to have a special size and pitch tap to use them. I can buy a pack of several sizes of threaded inserts and use taps that I already have on hand. They sell an insert tool that helps make them flush but I usually just use a straight blade screwdriver.


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Helicoils won't lock in well even with loctite and eventually pull loose with the fastener. They're fine for something you're not likely to take apart again. And helicoils inserts are much cheaper.

Solid inserts are much durable and the 2 I've encountered have a mechanical locking system. One used tiny little pins that you drove in after screwing down the insert. The other expanded the bottom lip of the insert with the insert tool. It is a more expensive kit but replacement inserts are about the same cost as helicoils.
 
Helicoils won't lock in well even with loctite and eventually pull loose with the fastener. They're fine for something you're not likely to take apart again. And helicoils inserts are much cheaper.

Solid inserts are much durable and the 2 I've encountered have a mechanical locking system. One used tiny little pins that you drove in after screwing down the insert. The other expanded the bottom lip of the insert with the insert tool. It is a more expensive kit but replacement inserts are about the same cost as helicoils.

I forgot about the pin version. They work well too. I’ve never used the ones that expand the bottom lip. I’ll have to look for them and try them someday if the opportunity presents itself.


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I have used a very similar "Heli-coil" style insert on a muffler bolt from a 22.8 cc Echo string trimmer. It has held up fine for me in that application over the last 6-8 years.
 
I've heard good things about keenserts. Look up Husqvarna 372xp stripped inner dawg screw thread on here. There is step by step instructions on that thread. It's for m5, but I'm sure the process would be the same for different sizes.
 
It depends on the application. When I built the 155 mm howitzers for the US Army everything was heli coiled, even in the aircraft industry everything is heli coiled. In aluminum there all heli coiled. It’s stronger than standard threads. We put laquer paint in the hole first then install the heli coil.
 
These here are the real deal from a sthil dealer repair shop if any one is interested has everything you need to install tap Insert tool and 10 + inserts in each kit 5 sizes from m4 to m10 make a good deal16757987125966605196471046615048.jpg1675798780645391908046766391001.jpg16757988553162798822942813099389.jpg
 
I’ve used heli-coil and timesert for various thread repairs over the years. Only time I had a heli-coil come out was due to the hole not having adequate material to “take” the insert, it pulled out while torquing the fastener. Other than that I’ve never had one come out and I’ve used them in applications that require periodic disassembly. Proper installation is key to success regardless of what you use. And don’t buy the off brand/knock off thread repair kits they’re junk.
 
Thread repair kit... Geez, I thought it was going to be about some kind of kit to fix threads here on ArboristeSite that went way off track and/or degraded into bickering... It would be useful for dealing with comments like this. 😜 On topic, I tend to drill and tap a size larger when possible.
 
Yeah!!!!!!!! We could call it Nip It In the Bud arborsite thread repair kit--Barney Fife could tell how it would nip out trolls,babies bickering over nothing page.................................,derailments etc.. Sometimes I wonder what a new guy on here thinks when a post goes on for 7 pages about some bs that 3 people fussing about that has nothing to do with old saws or maintaining them-cutting wood etc,,,,,,, Thats why I joined up--so long ago --lets get back to the core theme here people---Nip It-Nip It-Nip-It !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have had my say on it-been seeing junk like that pop up for years-yall know who yall are that I speak of--Nip it !!!!!!!!!!! I do like Heli-coils--if you have more room at the stripped out hole a larger style OD insert may be better. Those that use regular taps would be nice since we already have the drills and taps-Fastenal sells them!!
 

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