Help in deciding between Stihl MS 462 and 500i Chainsaw

[ChoppyChoppy]

Dropping trees, when you're in a tight position where the saw needs to be flipped to cut. Usually large trees where the chip exhaust needs to flow out the back. On a large tree and you try and get by with chips out the front you'll jam up the chain.

Its a specialty, but nice to have. IMO also a PITA.

Also on the newer Stihl saws, the wrap models have a better handle as well as I think clutch cover. I know for sure that was the case on the 362 I bought. The non wrap was a really cheesy plastic handle, small clutch cover, and a single felling dog. Where the wrap version is metal... or at least part of it (sorry can't remember, it was stolen about a year ago), large clutch cover and dual dogs.

I'd prefer a full wrap bar like many older saws had, but that's not an offering anymore I don't think.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

In working long hours - I would always recommend the lightest weight.
That's based on my own experience, off course "you" might be a unicorn with "God" like physics.

My main saw at the time, a 460, went down and I just had a 660 around.

Used that to hand cut and limb for a day. My arms were hurting by supper time. The next morning, I about needed help to zip my pants and tie my boots, my arms were not happy!

I'm sure with time would get used to it. Generally we cut with a feller buncher and stroke delimber, this just happened to be a really small job, maybe an acre, if that, that wasn't worth hauling all of the equipment. Most of the time didn't bother with under at least 10 acre jobs, but this was a deal for a friend.

 

[chipper1]

It is...on the scale my wrap handle 500i is lighter than my wrap handle 044s.

Here's a weight list I did awhile back on all my saws, full fuel and oil, all but the climbing saws are wrap handles:

• 880: 26lbs, 2.6oz
• 066: 19lbs, 7.4oz
• 372xt: 17lbs, 10oz
• 044: 17lbs, 2.2oz
• 500i: 16lbs, 13.6oz
• 462R: 16lb, 2.4oz
• ms400: 15lbs, 11.4oz
• 550xp: 12lbs, 15oz
• 201tc-m: 9lbs, 5.2oz
• 2511t: 5lbs, 15.2oz

Man, it's easy to see why so many like a 372/346 or 550 combo . MK1 is a heck of a limbing saw!

 

[Sierra_rider]

Man, it's easy to see why so many like a 372/346 or 550 combo . MK1 is a heck of a limbing saw!

The mk1 used to be my small rear handle for in-tree work. I even built a redneck full wrap for it. However, its starting issues has led me to just use the 400. When it's working well, I love it...however it's plagued with some of the mk1 problems.

 

[chipper1]

The mk1 used to be my small rear handle for in-tree work. I even built a redneck full wrap for it. However, its starting issues has led me to just use the 400. When it's working well, I love it...however it's plagued with some of the mk1 problems.

Bummer, what yr. I've found once you get into the 2016's most everything was fixed, then what did they do, introduced a heavier/fatter saw. That being said it does handle well for its weight, but not like the mk1.

 

[mendoman]

I have both the 500i and the 462cm.
The 500i pulls a 36” bar the way the 462 pulls the 28” bar.
I did blow the bottom end up on the 462… I don’t run any mods other than West Coast stuff, and max flow air cleaners. I cut in the big wood in California and Oregon, so the 500 I is more suited for my application than the 462

 

[chipper1]

I have both the 500i and the 462cm.
The 500i pulls a 36” bar the way the 462 pulls the 28” bar.
I did blow the bottom end up on the 462… I don’t run any mods other than West Coast stuff, and max flow air cleaners. I cut in the big wood in California and Oregon, so the 500 I is more suited for my application than the 462

Welcome to AS sir .

 

[StihlsawuserMS361]

Ended up with the 500i. Tough decision, haven't bought a new saw in over 16 years, so I took a chance with the 500i.
It's written here and elsewhere that this technology has been used prior in the concrete saw, so wish me luck with this one.
I figure too, maybe this will hold it's value longer than a carb version when I sell?
Of the 5 or so local dealers, none had it in stock, and frankly those 5 dealers service (and parts dept. aren't thought of too highly). A great dealer 30 miles away, whom I've purchased other Stihl products prior made the sale. I weighed hiring out one of those trees to be professionally taken down which helped me justify the cost.
I know if I put a longer bar on the 361, I'd be working it pretty hard.
Time will tell, again, thanks to all who've chimed in to help me!

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Ended up with the 500i. Tough decision, haven't bought a new saw in over 16 years, so I took a chance with the 500i.
It's written here and elsewhere that this technology has been used prior in the concrete saw, so wish me luck with this one.
I figure too, maybe this will hold it's value longer than a carb version when I sell?
Of the 5 or so local dealers, none had it in stock, and frankly those 5 dealers service (and parts dept. aren't thought of too highly). A great dealer 30 miles away, whom I've purchased other Stihl products prior made the sale. I weighed hiring out one of those trees to be professionally taken down which helped me justify the cost.
I know if I put a longer bar on the 361, I'd be working it pretty hard.
Time will tell, again, thanks to all who've chimed in to help me!

It took over a year on a waiting list for me to get a 500i. I picked it up about a month ago. They had a few batches earlier on, but none where wrap models.

Some of the "dealers" like Ace don't even carry the bigger stuff. I asked them about the 500i and I got "we don't have those... they are for professionals"... and I'm not?

 

[user 122190]

Ended up with the 500i. Tough decision, haven't bought a new saw in over 16 years, so I took a chance with the 500i.
It's written here and elsewhere that this technology has been used prior in the concrete saw, so wish me luck with this one.
I figure too, maybe this will hold it's value longer than a carb version when I sell?
Of the 5 or so local dealers, none had it in stock, and frankly those 5 dealers service (and parts dept. aren't thought of too highly). A great dealer 30 miles away, whom I've purchased other Stihl products prior made the sale. I weighed hiring out one of those trees to be professionally taken down which helped me justify the cost.
I know if I put a longer bar on the 361, I'd be working it pretty hard.
Time will tell, again, thanks to all who've chimed in to help me!

Bar Size?

Post pictures of the saw in the cuts and your impressions of the saw after working with it. FWIW, for the first and second tank of gas cut smaller stuff (under 12") and cut for shorter periods of time. Lots of different opinions about how to break it in, and IMO the run it like you stole it is Bull.

 

[bwalker]

Bar Size?

Post pictures of the saw in the cuts and your impressions of the saw after working with it. FWIW, for the first and second tank of gas cut smaller stuff (under 12") and cut for shorter periods of time. Lots of different opinions about how to break it in, and IMO the run it like you stole it is Bull.

If you want to break-in a two stroke, a
IE seat the rings you have to load it up. Baying it prolongs the rings from seating or causes them to never seat properly.
I use to take it easy on my stuff too until I had a snowmobile race engine built by a well known engine builder. In my presence he broke that engine in on the dyno at full throttle and max load. That engine ran an exceedingly long time for what it was and made awesome power.

 

[Sierra_rider]

Bummer, what yr. I've found once you get into the 2016's most everything was fixed, then what did they do, introduced a heavier/fatter saw. That being said it does handle well for its weight, but not like the mk1.

I forget what year, I think it's one of the earlier ones. I bought it in like-new condition from my local shop. It was supposedly used, but looked brand-new...maybe that was the red flag lol.

I didn't think anything of it, as I bought another saw before(372xt) in the same condition from them. Until the saw buying craze started a couple years ago, they'd usually have a saw or 2 in stock that were like new...usually the story goes that a customer would buy that saw and would quickly decide they need a different sized saw. That 372's been great, I basically got a new saw for used saw prices with that one.

The 550 actually ran great for awhile, but started having random issues after that. It is completely random too...most of the time it's great, but other times it has cold or hot starting issues. Also occasionally feels like it's "hunting" for it's tune while cutting. It's too random for me to think it's something like an air leak, seems like an auto-tune issue. I'm sure the new ones are great, but this saw honestly kind of turned me off to newer Huskies.

 

[chipper1]

I forget what year, I think it's one of the earlier ones. I bought it in like-new condition from my local shop. It was supposedly used, but looked brand-new...maybe that was the red flag lol.

I didn't think anything of it, as I bought another saw before(372xt) in the same condition from them. Until the saw buying craze started a couple years ago, they'd usually have a saw or 2 in stock that were like new...usually the story goes that a customer would buy that saw and would quickly decide they need a different sized saw. That 372's been great, I basically got a new saw for used saw prices with that one.

The 550 actually ran great for awhile, but started having random issues after that. It is completely random too...most of the time it's great, but other times it has cold or hot starting issues. Also occasionally feels like it's "hunting" for it's tune while cutting. It's too random for me to think it's something like an air leak, seems like an auto-tune issue. I'm sure the new ones are great, but this saw honestly kind of turned me off to newer Huskies.

It's important to remember that husky was cutting teeth on the 550, but many of the early ones did have problems. Have you had it flashed. The new ones are great, but way heavier, which is not what I want in a limbing saw. To me the mk2 is a great 1 saw plan for firewooding a few cord a yr, not that I recommend a 1 saw plan or an AT/MT saw for firewooding for most people.

 

[Sierra_rider]

It's important to remember that husky was cutting teeth on the 550, but many of the early ones did have problems. Have you had it flashed. The new ones are great, but way heavier, which is not what I want in a limbing saw. To me the mk2 is a great 1 saw plan for firewooding a few cord a yr, not that I recommend a 1 saw plan or an AT/MT saw for firewooding for most people.

Never had it flashed, I really don't use it that much anyway. The 50cc class is kind of a "in-between" size for me. If it's really small stuff on the ground, I'm stooped over with one of my climbing saws just the same that I'd be stooped over with the 550. If it's too large for my top handles, it's more energy efficient for me to just stand up and cut with the 400/28".

 

[StihlsawuserMS361]

Bar Size?

Post pictures of the saw in the cuts and your impressions of the saw after working with it. FWIW, for the first and second tank of gas cut smaller stuff (under 12") and cut for shorter periods of time. Lots of different opinions about how to break it in, and IMO the run it like you stole it is Bull.

Montana;

I used my 361 with scabbard lengthened out to test bar sizes. I'm 6'4",with the 25" setting, I could reach the ground with my arms out. 28" ,I had to pull up my arms so it wouldn't drag. So I went with the 25 B/C.

Agree on break in. Dealer told me to use it and not hold back. No thank you. Before the mechanic test fired it, I told him easy on the rpm's, no WOT.

FYI..My 361 owners manual says 3-4 tanks of fuel for break in. No mention at all in the 500i manual's on break in procedure. On the Stihl web site, WOT is referred to as being OK / WOT under load / into a log, not WOT without a load / free revving for break -in.

Probably as you suggested, light loads for at least 2 tanks...

Thanks for your input and help...

 

[owtlaw]

I am a Husky fan. I recently bought a 500i. 1st thing I did was put a 60 dollar Egan air filter in it as the factory AF is notorious for letting fines through. Other things to note. The AV system on the stock saw is a joke. I will be upgrading it next. Also noteworthy, you should probably pull the needle bearing cage from the clutch and grease it. I like the power it produces and in about 6 hrs I'm going to put it to the test with a 36" bar in a large cottonwood. I really dread running it with that 36" on it with the crappy av system but I gotta finish the job.

 

[Abbeville TSI]

It took over a year on a waiting list for me to get a 500i. I picked it up about a month ago. They had a few batches earlier on, but none where wrap models.

Some of the "dealers" like Ace don't even carry the bigger stuff. I asked them about the 500i and I got "we don't have those... they are for professionals"... and I'm not?

Our local Ace has an 880 on the shelf. It's a branch of a chain of Ace Hardware. No repairs, all boxed chain. I'm sure the repairs are shipped to the main store thus you lose the personal contact...

 

[user 122190]

Montana;

I used my 361 with scabbard lengthened out to test bar sizes. I'm 6'4",with the 25" setting, I could reach the ground with my arms out. 28" ,I had to pull up my arms so it wouldn't drag. So I went with the 25 B/C.

Agree on break in. Dealer told me to use it and not hold back. No thank you. Before the mechanic test fired it, I told him easy on the rpm's, no WOT.

FYI..My 361 owners manual says 3-4 tanks of fuel for break in. No mention at all in the 500i manual's on break in procedure. On the Stihl web site, WOT is referred to as being OK / WOT under load / into a log, not WOT without a load / free revving for break -in.

Probably as you suggested, light loads for at least 2 tanks...

Thanks for your input and help...

Yup, you can always get a 28" later if needed.

Breakin is about gas powered engines. I cannot get my head around why there would be a difference between a 2-stoke and a 4-stroke. It is about heat cycles. Let it idle til warm, make several WOT cuts in smaller (12" or so) logs for the first use. Let it cool down, and repeat the same but making twice, three, four times as many cuts, and repeat and repeat.

I broke in my 400c and my 500i this spring and both are now strong runners. Only thing I had to learn is to let it idle for 20 to 30 seconds before shutting it off. Nobody here can explain it, but the fuel electronics need to adjust down for the next startup.

 

[crannygoat]

The 500i is a great saw, once you learn how to use it. The Fuel Injection has some minor starting issues when warm. They are a minor problem, once you figure it out, but until then can be frustrating. The 462 cost a bit less, but after a couple of weeks or months, who remembers. Get the 500i, learn to use it, and love the power.

I just started running the 500i. I agree with the fussy warm start. I’m finding a few less pumps (depending on how warm it is) on the primer helps, but not totally convinced. Have you figured out what it wants?

Also agree with the mushy AV, but I’m running a 36” bar in blue gum eucalyptus. Don’t get me wrong, she cuts! All in all, I’m liking this saw a lot. Keeping around my husqy’s that I know I can rebuild.

 

[user 122190]

I just started running the 500i. I agree with the fussy warm start. I’m finding a few less pumps (depending on how warm it is) on the primer helps, but not totally convinced. Have you figured out what it wants?

Also agree with the mushy AV, but I’m running a 36” bar in blue gum eucalyptus. Don’t get me wrong, she cuts! All in all, I’m liking this saw a lot. Keeping around my husqy’s that I know I can rebuild.

Nope. I just know that after a single pull with a warmed up saw and it don't start, I need to hit the primer 3 or 4 times.