Help - Pro Mac 10-10S No spark

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That's how I've always done it - with a card that mics to 0.010. When I noticed the spark was stronger at fastest rpm while pulling, I reduced the gap to .005 and spark improved but still not firing, even with a prime. Now that I think about it, if there was enough sawdust blocking airflow and causing high heat, maybe that reduced the strength of the magnets but again, they feel as strong as any I've worked on.

It takes an awful amount of heat to demagnetize something, like a torch.
Pm me your adress if you think its the flywheel.
I'd peek down the intake and get a look inside of the cylinder also.
 
While were on this saw, the rim sprocket is worn but is smaller than standard 3/8 x 7 . ID is .765. Clutch side measures .750.
View attachment 860767
See the difference between the two? Small and standard size rim bothe 3/8ths.
I also see the "2" on the oregon. The original is marked 3/8 x 7 -2. Got one coming, thanks.
 
Update - I pulled the flywheel and it was aligned correctly. I reinstalled it and turned the engine with my cordless drill. I found that at 200 rpm, no spark. When I got to 800 - 1000 rpm, I have nice consistent spark. I've never measured this on any other saw so I have nothing to compare. Unless this is normal, seems like this has to point to either flywheel or coil/module.
 
I feel like 200rpm is too slow for spark, I test my point ignition McCullochs with a power drill on the "high" speed with the plug removed. They don't spark until they're spinning pretty good, Id have to guess 800 - 1000rpms. And these are saws that once assembled run fine.

Edit: I just looked up the exact drill I use and it's rated at max 600rpms, so I would estimate around 400-600rpm I get spark.
 
Do you have a autozone or something like that near you? A simple inline spark tester will pretty immediately tell you with your plug installed if your getting spark.
Also when your pulling luke forever trying to start it are you getting mix out the muffler?
 
Do you have a autozone or something like that near you? A simple inline spark tester will pretty immediately tell you with your plug installed if your getting spark.
Also when your pulling luke forever trying to start it are you getting mix out the muffler?
It was flooded at one point. I pinched off the fuel line and blew it out while cranking.
I'll have to pick up that spark tester. Never needed one until now. - after 30 years as an ASE master Tech.
Also have a new plug coming, just to eliminate that too.
Should have seen the bar before I dressed it. Looked like someone was chopping concrete blocks with it.
 
Most electronic ignition coils won't spark below 600 RPM to avoid problems with the engine firing early and producing a "kick back" in the starter. Most points ignition systems will spark below 600 RPM and will definitely snatch the starter from your hand if you don't pull with authority.

Mark
 
Most electronic ignition coils won't spark below 600 RPM to avoid problems with the engine firing early and producing a "kick back" in the starter. Most points ignition systems will spark below 600 RPM and will definitely snatch the starter from your hand if you don't pull with authority.

Mark
What you described with points ignition Macs is in my assessment, the thing that broke so many ill-fated recoils in Mini-Macs. That was exactly how one of mine broke, kicked-back when it was almost stalled.
 
Most electronic ignition coils won't spark below 600 RPM to avoid problems with the engine firing early and producing a "kick back" in the starter. Most points ignition systems will spark below 600 RPM and will definitely snatch the starter from your hand if you don't pull with authority.

Mark
Yep, wish my super 1050 had comp. release. I put a snowmobile starter handle on it.
 
Most electronic ignition coils won't spark below 600 RPM to avoid problems with the engine firing early and producing a "kick back" in the starter. Most points ignition systems will spark below 600 RPM and will definitely snatch the starter from your hand if you don't pull with authority.

Mark
Mark, unless I got a second bad coil, I'm out of ideas. Tried a second flywheel. Magnet strength felt the same as the orig. I actually had this fire briefly with the original flywheel gap at 0.005". Then it quits and get's no spark, even if I pull the plug and run the engine with a drill at 1K rpm. The coil from earlier 1010 looks similar but has only one contact. Do you know if it would work? I've literally checked everything I can think of. Even rebuilt the carb in case it was flooding. No grounded kill switch, coil is grounded, zero ohms. Tried second plug wire.
 
Sounds like you got a bum coil again:(

I'd happily send you a known runner but will be 3 weeks to infinity before it might show up.

Don't give up park it up and wait for a parts saw to come along the S is really a good running saw mine out cuts my mates ms311 all day long.
 
Sounds like you got a bum coil again:(

I'd happily send you a known runner but will be 3 weeks to infinity before it might show up.

Don't give up park it up and wait for a parts saw to come along the S is really a good running saw mine out cuts my mates ms311 all day long.
Thanks for the offer. It's not like I need another saw, it was just the challenge of getting it to run. I'll let it set awhile and see what turns up. Now I am wondering if coils were a problem on this model. I'm going to re-check to ensure the coil is properly grounded to the engine.
 
The electronic ignition coils were very reliable on the 10 and 600 Series saws, the tan colored ones were particularly robust. Let me know if you don't get it sorted out and I can send a known good coil to try.

Mark
Thanks Mark. I've done everything else I can think of and would like to try another coil. I'll PM my address.
 
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