HELP: SkilSaw Model 1616 Mechanical Question

Alaskan Stihl

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I have a SkilSaw Model 1616 Chainsaw that I am trying to get back into running order.

After conducting a Carburetor rebuild, I was able to get it started, however; it idles way to high. Note that I checked the Trigger Idle Screw and it was backed off all the way.

Next, I set the High & Low idle screws at 1-1/4 (per Walbro instructions) from where it was before (High was previously set at 2-turns and Low was at 3/4 Turn). It started, however it was running at a very high idle.

Finally, I start adjusting the Low Idle and when I tried screwing it in…it just idled even higher…and when I turned it open…it started to idle down. Problem is…that I screwed it open almost 3 turns before it finally started to idle down. I also adjust the High Idle and had to Open it up more than a turn and a half before it started to somewhat cooperate.

I never did get it to idle properly (simply ran out of daylight).

Here is one factor: The Carburetor is a Walbro WA8. In the operators manual, it calls for 16:1 Fuel. The only fuel I had at mixed at the time was Stihl Synthetic 50:1. I am wondering if that had something to do with it?

Here is some things I question and my resolves:

#1. Could it be just to rich of fuel? I might mix up some Richer grade fuel and try that?
#2. Could it be a possible Air Leak? (My next step is going to be a Vac/PSI Test and see what I find)
#3. Could there be something messed up with the Carburetor? I noticed that it doesn’t have one of those “Dome-Shaped-Welsh Plugs”. I blew everything out and replaced it the parts from a Kit.

Thoughts?
 

Old2stroke

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I have a SkilSaw Model 1616 Chainsaw that I am trying to get back into running order.

After conducting a Carburetor rebuild, I was able to get it started, however; it idles way to high. Note that I checked the Trigger Idle Screw and it was backed off all the way.

Next, I set the High & Low idle screws at 1-1/4 (per Walbro instructions) from where it was before (High was previously set at 2-turns and Low was at 3/4 Turn). It started, however it was running at a very high idle.

Finally, I start adjusting the Low Idle and when I tried screwing it in…it just idled even higher…and when I turned it open…it started to idle down. Problem is…that I screwed it open almost 3 turns before it finally started to idle down. I also adjust the High Idle and had to Open it up more than a turn and a half before it started to somewhat cooperate.

I never did get it to idle properly (simply ran out of daylight).

Here is one factor: The Carburetor is a Walbro WA8. In the operators manual, it calls for 16:1 Fuel. The only fuel I had at mixed at the time was Stihl Synthetic 50:1. I am wondering if that had something to do with it?

Here is some things I question and my resolves:

#1. Could it be just to rich of fuel? I might mix up some Richer grade fuel and try that?
#2. Could it be a possible Air Leak? (My next step is going to be a Vac/PSI Test and see what I find)
#3. Could there be something messed up with the Carburetor? I noticed that it doesn’t have one of those “Dome-Shaped-Welsh Plugs”. I blew everything out and replaced it the parts from a Kit.

Thoughts?
What are you calling "trigger idle screw"? Is it the throttle stop screw on the carb or something else? You have to check the throttle butterfly and make sure that it is almost completely closed and resting against the idle stop screw and not being held open by linkage or something else. The L screw is behaving normally, when you lean it out by screwing it in, the rpm should increase and vice versa as you back it out. The amount of oil in the fuel will certainly affect the tuning but you should be able to get it right with the 50:1. Leave the H screw alone, it has nothing to do with tuning the idle. You should do a search on "carb tuning" there is a lot of information you need to know, especially when it comes to adjusting the H screw.
 

Alaskan Stihl

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Old2Stroke: Correct…The adjustment screw for the trigger that I am referring by to is the set screw that adjusts for the linkage on the throttle lever.

I have messed with Carburetors a little bit (which is to say that I have spent hours makinn fine adjustments until I finally get chainsaws running correctly.)

The thing is…I haven’t had a saw that is so far out of adjustment. As mentioned, my next step is going to be a Vac/PSI Test to see if I have a leak. Otherswise, it has something to do with the carburetor or oinskage or something???

Note that the butterfly is correct…it closes like it should …and does rest on the idle screw….all good there.

Headscratcher…
 

Old2stroke

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Old2Stroke: Correct…The adjustment screw for the trigger that I am referring by to is the set screw that adjusts for the linkage on the throttle lever.

I have messed with Carburetors a little bit (which is to say that I have spent hours makinn fine adjustments until I finally get chainsaws running correctly.)

The thing is…I haven’t had a saw that is so far out of adjustment. As mentioned, my next step is going to be a Vac/PSI Test to see if I have a leak. Otherswise, it has something to do with the carburetor or oinskage or something???

Note that the butterfly is correct…it closes like it should …and does rest on the idle screw….all good there.

Headscratcher…
So you have a screw somewhere that adjusts for the length of the throttle linkage which really is meant to adjust the free play in the trigger before it moves the throttle? If so, that screw should not be used to set the idle speed, the screw that the throttle is resting against on the carb is the one for that.
 

Alaskan Stihl

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Old2Stroke:

BINGO! You called it dude…right on the money!!! It was a linkage problem!!

Ok, what happened was this:

History:
While I was assembling the chainsaw (I had to install new Points, New On/Off Switch and Carb. Kit), I accidentally broke the other “foot” on a plastic support piece that holds the Trigger & Choke, in place (one of the feet was previously broken when I first got the saw…so breaking the other foot caused the part to be rendered useless).

Unfortunately, finding a replacement part (it is called a “choke holder”) turned out to be impossible. So, the next best thing was for me to fabricate a ”U” shaped metal piece and bolt it back onto the plastic holder. After some fine tuning with a Metal File, it actually worked!

HOWEVER…

The problem was that I fixed one problem…and inadvertently created another…IE: It seems I created a situation in which the Trigger was now making contact with the Nut without realizing it!

Ok…Fast Forward:
As I was reading your reply, I paid close attention to your comment of making sure the butterfly valve in the carb was closing all the way…as well as also check for linkage issues. .

On the initial reassembly…It looked fine to the naked eye…HOWEVER…(per your recommendation comment) I decided to double check the linkage and butterfly valve. I used a small screwdriver and reached down the carburetor and pressed one of the edges of the butterfly valve and discovered that it WAS NOT closing 100%. It was such a minuscule amount that I didn’t notice it at first!

The problem was…that I used a screw & nut to secure the “U-Shaped” metal piece onto the Choke Holder Assembly.

This created a situation in which the Nut was in the path of the Trigger just enough to make contact. It wasn’t much…but enough to cause the trigger from closing the butterfly valve all the way….go figure!

I am telling you, I had to flip and turn the saw upside down and right and shine a bright light to locate the problem!

The Fix:
I used a Metal File and ground off a portion of the Nut. The Trigger now doesn’t make contact with the Nut and lets the Butterfly Valve cycle close all the way! Guess what? It now idles like it should !!!

So…Next step is that that I have to get the clutch to work properly…but that is for another day!

Thanks a Million for the Suggestion!!!!
 

Alaskan Stihl

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More Help Requested!

Great! So, Now that I have the SkilSaw 1616 idling like it should…I discovered that something is fouled up with the clutch. Even at an idle…the chain continues to spin. This lead me to believe that there is something goofy with the clutch assembly.

After removing the Clutch…you got it…there is a busted Clutch Spring Skilsaw Part #180373 (see pic).

Problem is…where in the world can a guy find one of those? I suppose I would probably need a pair of Springs if I can’t locate an exact one, that way the tension is the same?

Anyone have any ideas? I am going to scour the net to see what cross references (I know that Partner 505-180373 is a good number as well)…but the hunt is on!

I dug around online and found some generic Chainsaw Clutch Springs…problem is though…they are (4) Wraps instead of (3) like the ones on my saw.

Anyone know of a place that sells Clutch Springs (generic or otherwise)?
 

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Old2stroke

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Bad luck with the clutch. Not too many saws like that were in circulation so it will be difficult to find the exact springs, you might just have to try a number of any that are available that look to be the same length. Good luck
 

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