A few more Poge.
Husky 61, 266, 268, 2100, Poulan 3400-4000, the big Counter vibes, Jonsered 630, 80, 90, 801.
The rubber boots only isolate the carb for heat. When they bounce around none of that is transmitted directly to the handlebars.
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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A few more Poge.
Husky 61, 266, 268, 2100, Poulan 3400-4000, the big Counter vibes, Jonsered 630, 80, 90, 801.
The rubber boots only isolate the carb for heat. When they bounce around none of that is transmitted directly to the handlebars.
On those saws, ok. And that covers quite a few. Guess I was thinking too much about a/v and talkin' out my ass a little more than usual, eh? LOL
But with that said, the greater the a/v isolation (and effectiveness) between the tank/rear handle and engine, the greater the need for intake assembly flexibility by whatever means..., regardless of where in the assembly the carb is mounted.
When a not too smart guy tries yankin' a pinched bar out of a no-win situation, what's gonna get trashed (after maybe an a/v mount or two) from him jerkin' the handle all over the place thinking he's actually going to free the saw?
Broken a/v almost always equates to intake assembly damage -- usually a torn boot.
I was thinking of bringing an a/v mount to my local machine shop. Wonder how much it would cost to be reproduced in just plain steel or aluminum. Essentially making the saw rigid.
Oh I'm definitely interested in that outcome, shouldn't be too difficult for a machinist.
You're correct as far as old McCulloch set ups, which could be why broken intake blocks abound in those other makes.
McCullochKid
ArboristSite Operative
Papa 550 with Lil Baby XL 
Looks like the makings of a nice little wood pile there, too.
Yeah his wood pile makes me feel inadequate!
Btw I've been talking to Danzco performance products about tooling up or modifying a 3/8ths sprocket for the 6 pin Big chassis Homelite clutch drum.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Been after a 360 for awhile. Finally found one that looks almost new. Starts and runs great so I’m not going to touch anything at this time. Leave well enough alone.
Attachments
Almost new? For crying out loud it is new! Make sure the carb boot isn't soft because it will go in the cylinder and muck up the saw. Excellent find.
Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
That's a beauty Bob!
Going through the carb in the late-production SXL, the OEM pump diaphragm (yes, it's there! Look close) is some kind of clear plastic, acetate? The rebuild kit came with a buna pump with a Teflon retainer. The OEM pump diaphragm still looks good and seems flexible. Does anyone know if it's acetate? I don't think I can remove the OEM gasket and pump without destroying them, they're pretty stuck to the pump cover.
Opinions on leaving the OEM pump or replacing with the buna diaphragm? It looks like I can EASILY replace just the pump if I need to. Did they switch to this type of diaphragm for better fuel resistance?
Opinions on leaving the OEM pump or replacing with the buna diaphragm? It looks like I can EASILY replace just the pump if I need to. Did they switch to this type of diaphragm for better fuel resistance?
Do a thorough cleaning and install a new Walbro K10-SDC kit.
Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
This one's a Zama C2, already cleaned the carb, and I have a RB15 (or 16?) Kit. My curiosity is whether to leave the original clear pump diaphragm or replace with the black rubber diaphragm in the kit.
Replace it, you have it totally disassembled and cleaned, one less future issue. I always fully rebuild.
Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
I used to buy all my Homelite fuel lines from Leon. His tygon fuel and tank grommet replacement kits are good quality.
https://www.leonschainsawpartsandre...ket_Tygon_Fuel_Hose_&_Grommet_Set_FLS21A.html
https://www.leonschainsawpartsandre...ket_Tygon_Fuel_Hose_&_Grommet_Set_FLS21B.html
Scrap yard rescue, it actually runs but definitely needs seals and a through cleaning. 
