Homelite Chainsaws

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Well based on the adjustment screw and the position of the throttle, I don't think the locking pin is doing anything. The low speed adjustment seems to be "fixed" by the little aluminum colored screw that sits against the plate that the linkage is attached to, (see pic above). As you can see from the pic, it appears it is screwed in pretty close to all the way in from looking at how the spring is compressed. So, I am assuming that "someone" did this either to set a fast idle or to not have to mess with the locking pin?? There is very little room to put your foot in the handle and when I was trying to start it, my foot kept either hitting the trigger or the locking pin would pop out. So, maybe that is why someone adjusted that screw in further?, just guessing of course. Or, is that screw normally adjusted in that far.
Gonna try some starter fluid on her tomorrow and see if I can get it to pop.

Did you get this sumagun running yet?
 
Looking for some advice, I'm in a bit of a pickle here.
Was in the process of swapping the worn out .404 sprocket on my 550 to a new 3/8 one. Got the homelite clutch removal tool with the plate and 3 holes to screw into, and either this clutch is incredibly stuck on, or the screws I ended up using were below grade and extra weak, but they all ended up bending, and one sheared.
Now what? I'd go straight into trying to extract/drill out the sheared screw, but I'd really like to get the clutch out first so I can at least do that on a flat, stable surface. Is there another type of clutch tool that will work on this? Perhaps one that would fit into the spaces between each shoe and below the spring?
 

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Looking for some advice, I'm in a bit of a pickle here.
Was in the process of swapping the worn out .404 sprocket on my 550 to a new 3/8 one. Got the homelite clutch removal tool with the plate and 3 holes to screw into, and either this clutch is incredibly stuck on, or the screws I ended up using were below grade and extra weak, but they all ended up bending, and one sheared.
Now what? I'd go straight into trying to extract/drill out the sheared screw, but I'd really like to get the clutch out first so I can at least do that on a flat, stable surface. Is there another type of clutch tool that will work on this? Perhaps one that would fit into the spaces between each shoe and below the spring?
I took a cheap 1/2 drive socket 1 1/8th (I think?) And made my own clutch tool with my angle grinder. I get alot better leverage with a big socket driver!
 
I use this style on anything that my actual Homelite tools won’t fit. It has saved the day a few times. Need the be careful where you place it though so that you don’t end up popping spring off on your face!
 

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I took a cheap 1/2 drive socket 1 1/8th (I think?) And made my own clutch tool with my angle grinder. I get alot better leverage with a big socket driver!
That'll do! Dug through a free box of sockets and other things that I got awhile back, found a 1 1/16 to use that, once I got done butchering it with the angle grinder and a file, fit like a glove into the space under each spring.
With a nice 1/2 breaker bar on that, the clutch came off with ease. Cleaned things up, greased the needle bearing, switched to the 3/8 sprocket and put everything back together
Now I just need to do a little dremel work on a brand new 32" Husqvarna sprocket nose bar that I found at a local clearance sale for $40, then the old 550 will be ready to go again.
Thanks for all the good advice, everyone! Looked up that Stihl clutch tool and saw that it comes in a set of 3 different sizes. Will probably pick that up at some point, seems useful to have around.
 

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Finally managed to get out and run this 922 a bit. I haven't done anything other than fuel system and to repair the hole carved into the drive cover. Although it ran okay, I suspect it would benefit from some new seals and cleaning of the checks in the oil system. I might be inclined to take it all down and inspect the bottom and top end and make some new gaskets this winter. Sad to say, I have not had the time to work on saws of late.

It sure likes it fat on the L with the smaller HS 131. It was initially falling on its face with throttling at the usual 1 1/4 or so. It held a steady idle and ran through a few tanks working bigger rounds. H was happy at 1.

Haven't been out since last December, so it was nice to help a buddy get some wood for his elderly parents.

Must say the VI made a difference on the fingers. Although, I have always found the rigid Homelites smoother than some others.

Could use a new rim drive as the spur is spent.

Homelite 922VI vs Douglas Fir .png

 
Just joined this forum a few weeks ago so have not read all the 700+ pages of this thread. And I'll probably get laughed at when I mention the two Homlites I have.

My first one is a super 2 little 14 inch bar model that actually my wife bought for us July 7, 1975. I used it just last week cutting up a Poplar tree that fell down in corn field next door. Not the best firewood but its free except for the time and labor to cut and split.

That saw had been so good to me over the years that when I guy somewhere online mentioned he had bought literally a truck load of used saws from a collector/hoarder someplace out west or maybe it was in Canada I asked him if there were any Super2's in the mix.

turns out there were some so I bought one from him less bar to make shipping easier. Not sure but think that one might be one made in Canada and is a newer version as it has different filler caps, no points and has the plastic kick back guard that makes fueling it a bit of a pain..

As 95% of the trees on my land are under 16 inches the small 14 inch Homelites can handle what cutting I need to do, at 72+ years of age not sure I could manage something in the 18 to 24 inch size.
 
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