Homelite Super EZ ignition questions?

[Okie]

Acquired a nice clean looking Super EZ, UT 10537 and no fire at the plug. Has Wico Flywheel with breakerless ignition module. The module is white color and part number which is listed as NLA might be a A94111

What I've done. and still not spark on a well grounded new spark plug.
Checked air gap as ok at .010
Removed the kill switch wire
Checked resistance of the module, 5000 ohms to the spark plug wire and ground, low ohms on the module kill terminal to ground with the kill switch wire removed.
It has a white plastic color module, cannot read the numbers. Parts list a A 94111 module as NLA.
What I've not tried:
I've not tried baking the module yet.

Anyone know if these can be converted to points ign??? (I have points ign stuff for EZ's is why I ask, I've not pulled the wico flywheel to look underneath is why I ask.

Anyone have any suggestions, parts, etc so as to get a spark?

 

[Pioneer]

It can be converted to points ignition if it has the drilled and tapped mounts for the points on the crankcase, and it has the cam on the crankshaft. Of course you will need the proper flywheel as they don't match up between the points and the electronic ignition. If I remember correctly, the magnets are opposite on the points vs electronic ignition flywheels, so they will attract each other when they are brought together both facing up flat on a table.
The points system works fine on these saws. I found they are more susceptible to tuning than some other saws their size, they put out a lot of power and seem to be a little high strung.

 

[Okie]

It can be converted to points ignition if it has the drilled and tapped mounts for the points on the crankcase, and it has the cam on the crankshaft. Of course you will need the proper flywheel as they don't match up between the points and the electronic ignition. If I remember correctly, the magnets are opposite on the points vs electronic ignition flywheels, so they will attract each other when they are brought together both facing up flat on a table.
The points system works fine on these saws. I found they are more susceptible to tuning than some other saws their size, they put out a lot of power and seem to be a little high strung.

I edited my first post. I failed to indicate it is the breakerless ignition and has maybe a A94111 magneto which is listed as NLA.
I have some of the points type EZ's and spare parts but have never ran into the Wico breakerless type. Reviews seem to indicate they have magneto Module issues. I have a spare EZ points type flywheel also.

Wondering if with the correct flywheel a guy could use a regular points magneto and then use a Nova chip module for the points. Some of the Nova chips can be connected for reverse polarity to match the flywheel polarity?????????????

Anyone have a source for a replacement A94111 mag module or tried the Nova chip type convert that I mentioned?

 

[Pioneer]

You might be able to just replace the coil and use the existing hammers, I believe some other people have done that to homelites using existing Husqvarna coils.
Maybe someone else can chime in on this?

 

[Old2stroke]

You might be able to just replace the coil and use the existing hammers, I believe some other people have done that to homelites using existing Husqvarna coils.
Maybe someone else can chime in on this?

By "hammers" do you mean the laminated core of the coil? Removing a coil and replacing it on the core with a different one can be done if both coils are wound on a bobbin and the bobbin is just glued to the metal core, assuming you can find a coil that is the same dimensions. The problem we run into is most new coils are wound on the core and potted there in epoxy and cannot be removed without damage. There may be timing issues with a different coil but it's a good way to go if you can find the right coil. Many people have had success with baking them so it's worth a try, I've had limited joy with this but maybe I don't bake hot enough or long enough.

 

[Old2stroke]

Wondering if with the correct flywheel a guy could use a regular points magneto and then use a Nova chip module for the points. Some of the Nova chips can be connected for reverse polarity to match the flywheel polarity.

This should work, many older saws with points ignition get this conversion. You would have to ensure that the new flywheel has the magnets in the same position relative to TDC as it would have in a saw that was meant for points.

 

[Okie]

I might give this a try.
Wondering if with the correct flywheel a guy could use a regular points magneto and then use a Nova chip module for the points. Would not even have to pull the flywheel and fool around with installing points and condenser, also might not even be a cam lobe on the crank for points. Some of the Nova II chips can be connected for reverse polarity to match the flywheel polarity?????????????

Installing a coil on the existing Laminations (hammers as you say) might be more tricky. The coil on these laminations is offset more on one side than the other and be taking a chance that the wound direction is correct for the magnet polarity when installed on these laminations. Also would not be able to reverse just the coil due to the spark plug wire outlet so as to get the polarity correct..
Unless someone can chime in that has accomplished such?????????

 

[lostone]

Have you checked to see if Leons Chainsaw has the parts you need? Leon's Super EZ section

 

[Okie]

Have you checked to see if Leons Chainsaw has the parts you need? Leon's Super EZ section

Took a quick search at Leons using the A94111 part number and a Blue Coil of DEATH showed at $100 for used. Too costly for me for something that has a know high failure rate and also a pig in a poke electronics.
The module in this one is a square cased white plastic????? I'll see if I can pull up and any ID from it under a magnifying glass, someone maybe have tried some kind of sub?????????????
I'll pull the flywheel to see if points ign can be installed and if not I'll try the points magneto and a electronic chip as a sub for the points/condenser.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Can you put up a few pics of this white module you have? Many of us older hands have been swapping coils and modules for years and have work arounds for a good many saws, we work better on the visual than with product manufacturers ut numbers and such. Just lately my Solo 690 would lose spark when hot but I could not find a direct replacement module for it , when I removed it, it sort of looked familiar but it was a day or so later the light bulb came on in my old head, that module was the same as used in another saw not even closely related, just a slight alteration to the replcement and the saw is up and running fine again.

 

[Okie]

pioneerguy600:
You asked:
Can you put up a few pics of this white module you have?

Yes, I'll get some pic's of the coil in few days.
I set the saw over in the corner of the shop off the work bench due to cold weather and cold rain (shop is not heated and had couple other priorities, deer season is open now and that is #1 priority.
When looking at the IPL's using the UT number everything shows the module should be the BLUE COIL OF DEATH. I can see where Bubba has been flogging the module area and I suspect that maybe a alien module has been installed on the Homie laminations. The coil is white plastic and square shaped and might be for a reverse polarity flywheel. I'm also going to pull the Wico flywheel and see if the block casting has provision for points/condenser and I have two other spare EZ flywheels I can check their polarity and if I have a rev polarity flywheel I can try it with this coil.
I also have a Nova II chip somewhere in my parts that is the type that the polarity can be changed from pos to neg so as points not needed.
I've noticed that trying to find the correct IPL for EZ saws is a toss up if they DO NOT HAVE a UT number, so as to compare parts used on different saw model numbers, some just have SUPER EZ with a long serial number and have what appears to be at least 3 types of ign systems, Wico points, Phelon points, Prestolite maybe, and possibly both the Phelon and Wico were Breakerless Modules BLUE COILS OF DEATH with opposite polarity flywheel rotors.?????? I have some EZ running saws that I've acquired from donors and junk piles/garage sales and repaired and use in firewood woodlot and been lucky that this is the first breakerless Module saw that I have seen.
I'll get back with pic's sometime later and
I looked at several Module Pic's at chainsawr.com but only seen the blue coils and none that looked like this one.

Stay Safe and
Thanks

 

[pioneerguy600]

It`s been many years since I have worked on them but I can`t ever recall seeing one with a white module in it. Those saws sort of went by the wayside during the mid 80`s I remember them coming in to repair shops where most ended up in the scrap metal lugger bins. One place I worked they were almost as many of them as there were all other models of saws in the scrap bins. I kept a couple for parts and a few chain bars but the rest went to the recyclers.

 

[Okie]

It`s been many years since I have worked on them but I can`t ever recall seeing one with a white module in it. Those saws sort of went by the wayside during the mid 80`s I remember them coming in to repair shops where most ended up in the scrap metal lugger bins. One place I worked they were almost as many of them as there were all other models of saws in the scrap bins. I kept a couple for parts and a few chain bars but the rest went to the recyclers.

All of my EZ's except one came to me as donors or from discards that no one could get running and had been given the saw a toss. I bought one NEW back in the late 70's, have owners manuals and receipts. Needed a good light weight reliable saw to carry on my back through the woods. Only had to install one carb kit in that over 40 year old Homie super EZ saw which was quite a learning curve re-installing the carb first time.
That new one is what got me to noticing for parts saws, etc.
They are my go to saws for trimming and ATV/jeep saws.
Would like to see this one get some ignition, it look good and clean.
BLUE COIL OF DEATH sure sucks big air on these good engines.
This is another case where electronic ign is not a good thing. (for long term reliable service)

 

[pioneerguy600]

The modules were the reason so many of them in my area have been scrapped. The rest of the saw stands up to the test of time so well, rugged build and quality parts all but those modules. If it were a saw I cared about I would make or find a module that would work on them, its not all that difficult. Magnet polarity is the first step I look at and then find a module I can modify to fit in and then check timing. I have done module swaps on many vintage saws just to keep them running. The chips are just a cop out for me, others put up with them but for me they are worst than a band aide.

 

[Okie]

The modules were the reason so many of them in my area have been scrapped. The rest of the saw stands up to the test of time so well, rugged build and quality parts all but those modules. If it were a saw I cared about I would make or find a module that would work on them, its not all that difficult. Magnet polarity is the first step I look at and then find a module I can modify to fit in and then check timing. I have done module swaps on many vintage saws just to keep them running. The chips are just a cop out for me, others put up with them but for me they are worst than a band aide.

I've never seen this saw run. Compression feels good, piston and cylinder look ok, carb area clean, sprocket shows very little wear, paint shows only light use.
I can gauge check the compression if necessary, do a leak down test.
You are correct about them Nova II chips just being a band aid. Only reason I was thinking of such is to try and get a run. I've had poor luck with reliability of the breaker less chips in the past. Their theory is good do not even have to pull the flywheel to install, but again from experience with them, electronic's reliability is weak and poor and in the same category as the BLUE Modules.
I've have some really old points systems in use and can keep points systems going.
Would like to get a spark and run is why I mainly mentioned trying a temporary run with the chip and a points magneto.
If the crank and block has provision for points system then later install points.
I'll take a closer look and take pics of the existing module.

Anyone ever seen a Super EZ Breakerless BLUE COIL block have provision for installing points/condenser???

 

[pioneerguy600]

Pull the flywheel off, if points can be used it will be evident if there is a cam on the crankshaft or the provision for a cam to be slipped on, keyway slot in the crank.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I've never seen this saw run. Compression feels good, piston and cylinder look ok, carb area clean, sprocket shows very little wear, paint shows only light use.
I can gauge check the compression if necessary, do a leak down test.
You are correct about them Nova II chips just being a band aid. Only reason I was thinking of such is to try and get a run. I've had poor luck with reliability of the breaker less chips in the past. Their theory is good do not even have to pull the flywheel to install, but again from experience with them, electronic's reliability is weak and poor and in the same category as the BLUE Modules.
I've have some really old points systems in use and can keep points systems going.
Would like to get a spark and run is why I mainly mentioned trying a temporary run with the chip and a points magneto.
If the crank and block has provision for points system then later install points.
I'll take a closer look and take pics of the existing module.

Anyone ever seen a Super EZ Breakerless BLUE COIL block have provision for installing points/condenser???

Sooner or later those chips fail in a lot of cases but it might run for a while , difficult to say until tried. I just got a Super Mini dropped off but havn`t looked past the stuck recoil , loaded up with dried oily sawdust to the point it won`t retract, with the recoil side off it turns over with strong compression. Still need to check for spark but scraped out a pound or more of oily gunk, recoil now has a chance to do its thing when re mounted.

 

[rarefish383]

As soon as you mentioned using an old points flywheel and a Nova II chip, I skipped every thing else. I chipped an EZ and it worked well. I don't know if it will work or not. But, it seems to me, you may be able to use the points flywheel and the chip. You wouldn't need the cam on the crank with no points. Maybe someone can follow up on that angle, whether it will work or not?

 

[Okie]

As soon as you mentioned using an old points flywheel and a Nova II chip, I skipped every thing else. I chipped an EZ and it worked well. I don't know if it will work or not. But, it seems to me, you may be able to use the points flywheel and the chip. You wouldn't need the cam on the crank with no points. Maybe someone can follow up on that angle, whether it will work or not?

rarefish:
Which brand, part number or model of chip did you use? Reason I ask is the Nova II's that I have tried, type that polarity can be reversed would not live very long and some even had to have their polarity reversed to get a run on the same saw and could tell the timing was not correct when cranking.

Pioneerguy600 mentioned the Homie mini EZ. I've never seen one of those in the USA, think they were more common in Canada, probably.

I'm also thinking that I will try taking a drill and spinning th existing flywheel backwards in opposite direction just to see if it will get a reverse polarity rotor spark. (would maybe give me a hint that a MODULE type mag needs reverse polarity to fire before actually installing a different polarity flywheel)

 

[rarefish383]

Sooner or later those chips fail in a lot of cases but it might run for a while , difficult to say until tried. I just got a Super Mini dropped off but havn`t looked past the stuck recoil , loaded up with dried oily sawdust to the point it won`t retract, with the recoil side off it turns over with strong compression. Still need to check for spark but scraped out a pound or more of oily gunk, recoil now has a chance to do its thing when re mounted.

Over on HOH a guy had a saw he chipped fail almost instantly on 4 chips. He said he couldn't find a good place to mount them, so he mounted them to the coil. One of the chips I put in, it said to mount it as far from the coil as possible. On my Super 1050 and C5 I ran them under the flywheel and out into cooler air. The Super 1050 has been at least 10, maybe as much as 15 years. It was my milling saw for 10 years. Maybe I just got lucky? The instructions on all of the chips I've got since, didn't say anything about keeping them away from the coil or getting them into fresher, cooler air. I know more people talk about them failing than talk about them working. I run one on my JD 265, 17 horse Kawasaki, and it works well too. I heard that the cooler the air the better, so I just left it dangling on the wires a few inches from the block. It had been on the 265 at least 10 years. I was mowing in chest deep weeds and the tractor just shut off, so I towed it back to the garage. I saw one wire off the chip. I keep a new one in the tool box on the tractor, so I put the new one on. It started put ran terrible then died. Bought another new one and plugged it in just like the one I pulled off, and it did the same thing and died. Got another one and payed attention, actually looked at the wires. I had put the first new one on backwards, then put the replacement on backwards. Put the third new on on properly and it's been running fine since, about 2 years. That tractor has over 3000 hours on it.