Homelite Super EZ ignition questions?

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Preliminary report:

I bought a Anzac 503901401 Ignition Coil Module for Husna 50 51 55 61 254 257 261 262 266 268 272 Chainsaw Jonsered 2054 EPA 2055 2095 at $16 from amazon and carefully pressed it off it's core and carefully installed it onto the 94111 homelite Blue coil of death core and installed the Wico electronic flywheel and spun it with a bat drill and had fire both directions and was stronger in the CCW direction, shortened the plug wire at the plug end due to the wire glued into the module and got a good preliminary test run. Was careful to make sure the plug wire was not against the engine fins, seen where it was reported it might melt. I used a asbestos type sleeve also.

I had the saw running really good with Wico/Prestolite points ignition flywheel, magneto coil and a atom chip because I could not find a Blue coil of death replacement. (had to use the atom chip because no provision for mounting points/condenser and no crank lobe for points.
I tested the Anzac module for fire at first with the Wico points flywheel and when I spun it CCW the spark was weak and CW the spark was strong. The Wico/Prestolite ELECTRONIC flywheel NORTH POLE magnet enters the module first when spun CCW.

The Wico points flywheel magnets are the opposite polarity of the Wico electonic is why the points flywheel had stronger fire when spun bass ackards or CW

Summary: Got a good preliminary test run (easy start and saw sounds strong) by replacing the Blue coil of Death Wico/Prestolite coil A94111 with a $16 Anzac Module 50390140 using the A94111 core laminations.
 
Preliminary report:

I bought a Anzac 503901401 Ignition Coil Module for Husna 50 51 55 61 254 257 261 262 266 268 272 Chainsaw Jonsered 2054 EPA 2055 2095 at $16 from amazon and carefully pressed it off it's core and carefully installed it onto the 94111 homelite Blue coil of death core and installed the Wico electronic flywheel and spun it with a bat drill and had fire both directions and was stronger in the CCW direction, shortened the plug wire at the plug end due to the wire glued into the module and got a good preliminary test run. Was careful to make sure the plug wire was not against the engine fins, seen where it was reported it might melt. I used a asbestos type sleeve also.

I had the saw running really good with Wico/Prestolite points ignition flywheel, magneto coil and a atom chip because I could not find a Blue coil of death replacement. (had to use the atom chip because no provision for mounting points/condenser and no crank lobe for points.
I tested the Anzac module for fire at first with the Wico points flywheel and when I spun it CCW the spark was weak and CW the spark was strong. The Wico/Prestolite ELECTRONIC flywheel NORTH POLE magnet enters the module first when spun CCW.

The Wico points flywheel magnets are the opposite polarity of the Wico electonic is why the points flywheel had stronger fire when spun bass ackards or CW

Summary: Got a good preliminary test run (easy start and saw sounds strong) by replacing the Blue coil of Death Wico?Prestolite coil A94111 with a $16 Anzac Module 50390140 using the A94111 core laminations.
I came up with that Prestolite swap using a Husky coil a few years ago. It was through a lot of trial and error when coming up with a work around on the XL-76/130’s. Other fellows tried it with good success. It was even used on some Farmsaws that suffered the same Prestolite blues. I have swapped cores for direct bolt on or when complete coils were missing, used a hold down for the rear boss and using the complete Husky coil/core. The XL-1/SuperMini/SuperEZ use the same blue Prestolite, so can accept the Husky coil as well. The 365 style coil can also be used on some of the larger P-series as well.
One thing I found when trying a handful of coils leading up to the Husky was that the electronics only run properly with the correct flywheel polarity. Coils that ran on flywheels with reverse polarity to the Wico electronic, ran very erratically even though they produced visual spark with a drill. The Husky flywheels have the same polarity as the Wico electronic. Even without the original core, the Husky coils have great timing when mounted out of the box.
 
Good info Hoggwood:

I'm keeping a eye open for a coil core lamination for another EZ of mine. (only need a core lamination)
I cut my own firewood and use the EZ's as mainly trim saws in the woodlot and repair my own saws.
I think that I might have a EZ that has the lesser used Phelon ignition system. I was not aware of the many different ign systems used on these Homies until I got to stumbling into them. I see that some EZ's with the same UT number had maybe either Phelon or Wico systems.

I don't have any faith in long term reliability using a chip as points replacement and no faith at all in baking a coil to get a run.
I had previously experimented with using chips as points replacements and chips would fail in the woods right when I needed a reliable good running saw when felling trees especially would get failures if I did not have a backup saw handy.
I've tried the baking thing few years ago
on the outboard motor mag's coils and they would almost always eventually fail again. (mainly due to eventually carbon tracking/arcing to the core)
Yep, I eyeballed using the Husky core and mounting with only one leg screw but I would have to use the EZ's core as a pattern and elongate the mounting ONE hole and was leery of the core possibly eventually getting into the flywheel.
 
I really don't have anything to say bad about the Nova II chips, used a few in the past with good results. Just make sure they're grounded good and have a good supply of air going to them. I used to mount them in the airbox and ran wires from the airbox to the engine to make sure they were grounded. However, these and other chips for some reason won't work on every saw. They will work on the EZ saws, at least the ones I've had.. I'd trust them more than I'd trust the blue module...
 
I came up with that Prestolite swap using a Husky coil a few years ago. It was through a lot of trial and error when coming up with a work around on the XL-76/130’s. Other fellows tried it with good success. It was even used on some Farmsaws that suffered the same Prestolite blues. I have swapped cores for direct bolt on or when complete coils were missing, used a hold down for the rear boss and using the complete Husky coil/core. The XL-1/SuperMini/SuperEZ use the same blue Prestolite, so can accept the Husky coil as well. The 365 style coil can also be used on some of the larger P-series as well.
One thing I found when trying a handful of coils leading up to the Husky was that the electronics only run properly with the correct flywheel polarity. Coils that ran on flywheels with reverse polarity to the Wico electronic, ran very erratically even though they produced visual spark with a drill. The Husky flywheels have the same polarity as the Wico electronic. Even without the original core, the Husky coils have great timing when mounted out of the box.
Hogwood, do you remember which Husky coil you ordered to replace the Prestolite coil on the Super Mini/EZ? I need one to attempt a repair on my saw. Any help would be appreciated.
 
NOTE:
The ANZAC coil will only fit onto the WICO/Prestolite laminations cores.
Normally the electronic type coil are more user friendly to remove from their cores for installing the Anzac coil.
The Anzac coil will also fit onto a Wico/Prestolite point type coil lamination core, BUT the points type WICO/Prestolite coils I've seen are epoxy glued to their cores and not easily removed/pressed from their core.

The Phelon magneto laminations cores have different dimensions and will not fit onto the Anzac coil.

Summary: more user friendly to use a electronic Wico/Prestolite core lamination for installing a Anzac core because just carefully press on/off. (no epoxy glue involved, etc.
 
Another thing to consider is the ground wire. These coils are auto transformers and that means one end of the secondary and one end of the primary are joined together and must be grounded to the cylinder so if there is a ground lead coming out of the coil (besides the kill switch wire) the coil can be made to work on a different lamination. If there is NO separate ground wire, the coil grounds are spot welded to the core and these coils cannot be removed from the core without damage.
 
Another thing to consider is the ground wire. These coils are auto transformers and that means one end of the secondary and one end of the primary are joined together and must be grounded to the cylinder so if there is a ground lead coming out of the coil (besides the kill switch wire) the coil can be made to work on a different lamination. If there is NO separate ground wire, the coil grounds are spot welded to the core and these coils cannot be removed from the core without damage.
Good point:
Right about the autoxformer ground wires. (some ground wires are spot welded and I've seen some small engine mags ground wires are not visible and ground by a friction fit as the coil is installed onto the core.

The Anzac and the Stihl magnetos I mentioned does not have the ground wire spot welded and can be removed from their cores without being concerned about a spot weld. (but care must be taken when pressing off the core to not hammer on the coil itself. (no glue just a snug friction fit)
The Anzac is a friction fit onto it's core and I had to use a piece of shim stock from a small stainless steel hose clamp to get a friction fit onto the homie lamination. I could have epoxy glued but choose to just use shim stock in case I needed to replace the coil later.
BUT when removing the points type Wico/prestolite coil from it's laminations I had to sacrifice the coil because it was glued on it's core securely and I had to be careful and not ruin the laminations. The laminations are not critical but must not be severely damaged or furbared as mentioned in this post.

https://houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/8142/super-ez-auto-spark?page=3&scrollTo=72700
 
One thing I discovered about the Homelite EZ ignitions, is that in addition to having 2 different possible coils, and that they were specific to their own flywheel. To make things more confusing, the two different flywheels had the same part number.
 
Right on about the reverse polarity flywheels for Homies with same part numbers.
I mentioned this in one of my long threads about such and the electronic magneto mods.
It's been awhile but I think I also mentioned that when Homie ran out of Wico Prestolite FLYWHEELS for awhile they actually reverse polarized some Phelon flywheels at the factory for use with the Wico/Prestolite points ignition.
What I do to get a hint that I have the correct flywheel when doing ignition mods on Homie EZ's is to remove the spark plug to take a battery operated drill and spin the flywheel both directions.
If the Homie has a stronger spark when the flywheel is spun in opposite direction of the rope crank direction, you have the WRONG FLYWHEEL polarity installed for that Magneto you are testing.
I've also converted the Blue coil of Death to a Points magneto by using a points type Wico Magneto, Wico flywheel and using a electronic chip,. The chip replaces the points/condenser because the electronic Homies do not have provision for mounting points/condenser to the block and also DO NOT HAVE THE POINTS LOBE ON THEIR FLYWHEEL.
AND they have at least 3 different magneto coils, Wico, Prestolite, and Phelon.
The Wico and Prestolite are usually interchangeable.
I'm no Homie expert, just speaking from experience wrestling around flogging them.
Nice to have some Homie EZ's laying around in the salvage for parts donors when testing.

Yep, Homie EZ's had several different versions and all look kinda the same on the outside except for paint colors. Some of the Canada versions are also in the circle, but I don't think China ever made any clone YET.
 
UPDATE: using the Anzac module.

The EZ saws are still running great. You have to use your old lamination core.

Phelon lamination core's which you can find for sale will not fit the Anzac modules.
 
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