Homelite XL (UT-10515B) Chainsaw Bar/Chain

GStevens1

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Hello everyone.

I am new to this site, and new to DIY mechanical skills on 2 cycle equipment.

I recently acquired a free Homelite XL (UT-10515B) 10" Chainsaw with automatic oiling, however, it did not fire up, even after adding fresh premix (40:1).
I removed the spark plug, sprayed some starting fluid in the cylinder, reinstalled the plug, and it eventually fired but only briefly. Obviously, there is a carburetor issue and not an issue with spark. The carburetor installed is a: Zama Carburetor C2S-H5 part# A-96481, so I ordered the last one I could find on ebay for $25, in new condition. I will install a Zama rebuild kit on the original non-working carburetor after the new carburetor has been installed and the other has been removed.

Installed on this chainsaw was a Homelite branded 10" OEM bar, with 10" chain (40 drive links) installed.
Out of curiosity, what do most experienced folks recommend for 10" 40 DL chains? Full chisel or Semi chisel? What brand? Oregon? The Oregon S40 or R40? I don't see a lot of choices in this area, surprisingly at 10", which I understand, but I cannot deny the extreme light weight of this saw. It's lighter than a fiberglass shovel in my opinion. I cannot get any information from the OEM Homelite bar, or generic chain, and the parts manuals have never shown a factory 10" bar/chain, however, this says HOMELITE on it.
I have virtually unlimited access to hardwoods (oak, walnut, etc...) so I was curious as to the recommendation of chain make/model/type/etc... I am not experienced in the differences.

Also, I have no idea if the oiler system works or not, but I suppose I will start that investigation after the saw is running. It could work, but I doubt it.. but maybe...
So far, I've only spent $25 for this saw, and it has (2) 10" chains. It needs internal/external cleaning, a new air filter (someone used a brillo? pad as a substitute air filter), and carburetor. I will install the new OEM Zama carburetor shortly.

I do have a Stihl engine tachometer, so from what I gather from the service manual, the engine speeds should be as follows:
Speed: 2,900-3,200 RPM idle
Speed: 7,000 RPM Cutting
Speed: 10,000 no load (approximate)

Pictures are attached of this saw, before being cleaned. (I only removed the case for checking carb numbers). Does anyone have any advice on what type of chain, type of air filter (source for old stock oem parts if still available?), and any other useful information that anyone could give me on this chainsaw would be very helpful! I do not have experience with Homelite saws.
For some reason, I would rather use this ancient saw made back in 1983?, then use the newer/bigger/heavier/expensive saws. I think I was 2 or 3 when this saw was manufactured, so I have ALOT of respect for old things. Funny thing is, the (significantly older) contractors working at a jobsite all passed this saw up as being too "OLD" and "Unfixable", but I strongly disagree, despite me being in my 30's and half their age... Hopefully I can get this running like a top, without spending a fortune.

Thank you very much!
 

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JohnL

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You should be able to get Oregon bar and chain in 3/8 low profile, matching spur sprocket, you aren't required to keep it 10 inch, 14 inch works fine on them. The foam air filters are readily available. The oiling systems vaied, some used a diaphram pump, others pressured the oil tank to push oil out to the bar. Run it without the bar and see if it dribbles out oil. The snap ring that retains the clutch drum likes to fly off on removal. Carb were usually Walbro HDC, probably due for a kit. If you want to sell it for cheap I would buy it.
 

GStevens1

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You should be able to get Oregon bar and chain in 3/8 low profile, matching spur sprocket, you aren't required to keep it 10 inch, 14 inch works fine on them. The foam air filters are readily available. The oiling systems vaied, some used a diaphram pump, others pressured the oil tank to push oil out to the bar. Run it without the bar and see if it dribbles out oil. The snap ring that retains the clutch drum likes to fly off on removal. Carb were usually Walbro HDC, probably due for a kit. If you want to sell it for cheap I would buy it.

What is "cheap"? Shipping is a pain in the U.S. no matter what the price would be... I have a new carb rebuild kit, and a brand new carburetor as well. Send me a private message.
 

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