How do know you if your chainsaw chain is tightened properly?

[samuelanali]

The question may sound a bit newbish, but I really want to know how you guys make sure your chainsaw chain is properly tightened or not.

Hit me with your favorite METHOD!

Also, It would be COOL if you give me some advice on how I can keep my chain tight for longer.
Happy sawing!

 

[angelo c]

1. It should be "loose" enought to freely spin about the guide bar...so with a glove on grab a raker and rock it gently to and fro.. if she don't spin nice and free....yer too tight
2. It shouldn't be falling off the bottom too much...just a little visible drive link is enough.

A slight pull up on chain will tell you when your between those marks.

 

[MacAttack]

Also make sure you're lifting on the nose of the bar when adjusting and tightening the bar studs.

 

[HarleyT]

I would say that if this is your big question, you might need to also ask "How do you know if your sprocket is worn out?"

 

[MacAttack]

I have a good example of a worn sprocket I will share....

 

[Jo3]

 

[HarleyT]

Good lookin' gal!!

 

[Jo3]

Good lookin' gal!!

And very smart.
BTW, her tutorial and chainsaw test are well done.

 

[Tomos770]

 

[angelo c]

And very smart.
BTW, her tutorial and chainsaw test are well done.

Yea

She has a great set of tutorials .

 

[Piotr Pakuła]

If it falls down, it means it's too loose ;-) I'm sorry / Merry Christmas

 

[Franny K]

Also, It would be COOL if you give me some advice on how I can keep my chain tight for longer.

What chain are you using? The "stretch" is most likely at the pivoting components. Use a chain with longer links, rated for more displacement, and made with superior components. I believe somehow the pivot points are hardened at the bushing yet soft enough to form the rivet at the end. I doubt all brands are equal in this aspect. More oil if an adjustable oiler on the saw in question. Fresh drive sprocket like noted above.

 

[EchoShindaiwaMakitaDolmar]

Pretty face. But a THICK body.

 

[computeruser]

Since I can cut a whole day, half dozen tanks or so, without needing to adjust chain tension, I’m not sure what OPs problem maintaining chain tension is. Well, perhaps apart from a worn drive sprocket and dull cutters heat soaking the crap out of the chain.

 

[angelo c]

Since I can cut a whole day, half dozen tanks or so, without needing to adjust chain tension, I’m not sure what OPs problem maintaining chain tension is. Well, perhaps apart from a worn drive sprocket and dull cutters heat soaking the crap out of the chain.

Most new chains do stretch. Stihl might stretch the least as they are pre-stretched. So pretty much every new chain will require some attention.

 

[Piotr Pakuła]

More expensive chains stretch less because they are made of better material / require better files

 

[computeruser]

Most new chains do stretch. Stihl might stretch the least as they are pre-stretched. So pretty much every new chain will require some attention.

Sure. Initially. But over the lifespan of a well maintained chain, it is only new and stretchy for what, the first quarter of a tank of fuel it sees?

 

[livemusic]

Since I can cut a whole day, half dozen tanks or so, without needing to adjust chain tension, I’m not sure what OPs problem maintaining chain tension is. Well, perhaps apart from a worn drive sprocket and dull cutters heat soaking the crap out of the chain.

This subject drives me mad. My chains do NOT stay tight. I have tried everything I know. This is multiple saws and two of them are pretty new and the bars are not worn, they're not that old at all. Chain tension doesn't last anything close to as long as what you are saying above. I use mostly Stihl chains and I am mostly speaking of 60-80 cc Stihl saws that I have been using lately. I am talking bucking big oak logs, 20" to 36" diameter. I will say that a problem is dirt/sand on the underside of the logs, if that matters.

I bet I don't get 30 minutes of cutting without tightening the chain. Run out of gas by then anyway and it's time to fill and also tighten it up.

 

[computeruser]

This subject drives me mad. My chains do NOT stay tight. I have tried everything I know. This is multiple saws and two of them are pretty new and the bars are not worn, they're not that old at all. Chain tension doesn't last anything close to as long as what you are saying above. I use mostly Stihl chains and I am mostly speaking of 60-80 cc Stihl saws that I have been using lately. I am talking bucking big oak logs, 20" to 36" diameter. I will say that a problem is dirt/sand on the underside of the logs, if that matters.

I bet I don't get 30 minutes of cutting without tightening the chain. Run out of gas by then anyway and it's time to fill and also tighten it up.

Fwiw, I’m running very short bars - 13” on 40-50cc Husqvarnas, 16” on the 5100, and 16” on 70cc saws. Maybe the shorter bar thing factors into my experience with minimal chain stretch versus yours?

 

[PV Hiker]

This subject drives me mad. My chains do NOT stay tight. I have tried everything I know. This is multiple saws and two of them are pretty new and the bars are not worn, they're not that old at all. Chain tension doesn't last anything close to as long as what you are saying above. I use mostly Stihl chains and I am mostly speaking of 60-80 cc Stihl saws that I have been using lately. I am talking bucking big oak logs, 20" to 36" diameter. I will say that a problem is dirt/sand on the underside of the logs, if that matters.

I bet I don't get 30 minutes of cutting without tightening the chain. Run out of gas by then anyway and it's time to fill and also tighten it up.

Before you tighten up your bar nuts, are you pulling up on your bar tip?

If you do, do that and do alot of under bucking with loose nuts the bar tip could drop down and you could have a loose chain.

Also as mentioned worn sprocket, bar Grove not getting oil, overworking cutting with a dull chain all contribute to heat and stretching chain.

To add the longer the bar the more you'll need to get the tension right.