How do you test a Homelite EZ coil?

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Jeffrey A

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I just recently joined this group. Seems to be a pretty knowledgeable group of folks here. I have a Homelite EZ; probably originally made in 1969. Uses a Phelon breaker points ignition system. I get no spark. Breaker points look to be in good shape. I can buy a new condenser for $2.99 from Leons. I don't have anyway to test it. My multimeter does not have the proper settings. But I can take resistance readings using my multimeter. When I try to take resistance readings from the coil, I am not sure I am doing it right or what the numbers should be. I am hoping that is not the problem because I have not been able to find a new one anywhere. Can anyone help me out? Thanks guys!
 


Your values should be about 1.5 ohms on the primary side, then about 6k to 8k ohms on secondary. Of course remove the kill switch wire & points wire first.

If either coil winding is open, then it’s failed, but have seen them still barely sparking on an open secondary..
 
You can test the condenser with your multimeter set on the highest resistance setting. Touch the negative lead to the case and the positive lead to the wire, then reverse the connections...you should see a slight blip on the meter. The condenser is simply a storage device and takes a charge when you touch the leads to it, when you reverse the leads the condenser discharges through your meter causing the blip.

Keep in mind that the spark plug leads are essentially screwed into the terminal on the coil. Oftentimes you can unscrew the lead and install a new one if the wire has a break in it. Another common problem area is the contact/connector under the boot. The tip of the connector needs to pierce the wire inside and over time they can work loose. Pull the boot off and try clipping about 1/4" off the end of the wire and starting over.

Finally, clean the points, some use a file and others like to use emery or crocus cloth, clean them again, and a third time, wash them thoroughly with carburetor or brake cleaner, the drag some clean paper through them to remove any final residue. Test the point with your ohmmeter to make sure they make and break as they should.

Check out the Homelite thread in the "Chainsaw Stickies" section as you will find more information there as well.

Mark
 
those saws work well by replacing points with a nova ignition module or similar. As long as coil is still good Which rarely gave issues btw
 
To see if points are opening and closing without removing the flywheel.:
You can use your ohmmeter to test if the points are closing and opening by finding the wire coming from under the flywheel that connects to the coil primary and the kill switch, disconnect or isolate this wire connect ohmmeter and then rotate the flywheel by hand and your ohmmeter should show low ohms (0-.5 ohms) and then high ohms when the points open. When the points are open you can then reverse the leads on a Analog type ohmmeter set on high ohms meter and see the meter hand momentary reverse direction and slowly climb which is showing the condenser charging..

The guys have already told you how to test a magneto coil and the spark plug wire.
The points type magnetos very seldom go bad.

Also when testing for spark remove the spark plug from the engine so as when you pull the rope the engine will make several fast revolutions, then GROUND the plug good, don't let it just flop around and dim the lights. I sometimes gap a test spark plug at about .035 so as to see if I get a good strong arc.

Parts for your saw can be found a Leons or ebay.
 
All very good suggestions. Most of those I did, but when I took the cover off I noticed the kill switch wire had a large bare section. Looks like over the 48 years the insulation melted back from all the heat. It was a simple fix but just goes to show you the simplest things can drive you crazy sometimes. I appreciate all the great suggestions. I now have fire at the plug so I am a happy camper. I took a picture so we all can learn from my experience.
 

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