How to sharpen a chain when one or two teeth are really injured?

[Xmaniac]

I buy chain by the reel so one or two chains is not as important as when bought bs a single loop. If one or two teeth are really toast down to twenty percent then replace those teeth just takes a few minutes per tooth. If the chain is down to fifty percent then file all teeth sharp and the chain will cut just as smooth as before. To file all teeth down to fifty percent if just two or three teeth are pretty damaged is ridiculous. Other wise take the chain off and sharpen it with a grinder. Thanks

Totally, buying chain by the reel, breaking and spinning your own saves hundreds of dollars per roll compared to purchasing them from the saw shop precut , wasted downtime, ability to fix broken or damaged cutter's/links in a matter of minutes.... I've had brand new chains from the local saw shop break at a rivet or link... they don't guarantee against premature breakage, a new one isn't cheap...

 

[brock1994]

Watch closely as a chain severs through material...the critical relationship is cutter to raker, not cutter to cutter...the chain is bouncing about in its cuts pretty wildly. It's much easier to make all the same- cutter to cutter, but the raker must match the cutter. If one is so bad as to be of no use...grind it out- and call it a "skip" sequence...

Exactly what my first thought is.

I always just sharpen my chains till they are sharp. I don’t count strokes to try to maintain the same cutter size, because that is irrelevant to the situation. It’s the relationship between cutter size and depth gauge size. I also have takes cutters out of chains and have no problem.

Always best to sharpen the chain till sharp and then use a appropriate depth gauge to adjust the “rakers”. This will keep your chain cutting straight and not “J” cutting but not a guarantee if not done properly. WCS makes a badass depth gauge that works good. Or husqvarna does as well. Thumbs up.