How to spec a Husky T540i

[nwroller]

I'm going to pickup a T540i from Husqvarna and curious how those that have one would spec it. 14" or 16" bar? Not sure which has better balance. I would keep the bar stock for the time being.

Also, would you do the 200X or 300 battery? I have several smaller batteries for other husky equipment but will need 1-2 better suited for the chainsaw.

Thanks!

 

[HumBurner]

300 on the battery. These batteries may require a different charger than what you have already.

I have a 16" on my 540i, but I don't know about the balance with the T540i. It pulls 16" .43/.325mini easily, and I'm often pushing the saw to its limits slashing trees out of the canopy.

 

[Franny K]

Look at the drive link count for the called bar length. 64 drive links in .325 has previously been called 15"

As for the battery. I have one 200x battery and a few older less capacity ones for my Husqvarna devices. The 200 fits the devices. I may be wrong but isn't the 300 one wider as in it would stick out to one side?

I tried the gasoline and battery 540 top handles at the Paul Bunyan show last year and with the chains on them as delivered and the performance was extremely similar with the battery one easier to stall out.

 

[HumBurner]

As for the battery. I have one 200x battery and a few older less capacity ones for my Husqvarna devices. The 200 fits the devices. I may be wrong but isn't the 300 one wider as in it would stick out to one side?

I tried the gasoline and battery 540 top handles at the Paul Bunyan show last year and with the chains on them as delivered and the performance was extremely similar with the battery one easier to stall out.

I'm not sure of the width of the two batteries, comparatively. I'm pretty sure the two batteries that fit this series saw are different than the original batteries and will require a different charger (QC500.)

I can usually get a full day's work off two batteries, unless bucking lots of firewood or the chain loses some sharpness.

The two biggest drawbacks to these saws are the tendency to stall out (and stop) whereas a gas saw may stall but continue to power through a cut.

The other BIG drawback is the clutch cover outlet is tiny and often clogs. When bucking or stumping, ill often have to clear the channel out multiple times with my finger. If noodles are coming out, it clogs even quicker than chips.



Currently, I'm still having issues with my break sensor. Hopefully today I will be splitting the saw and investigating between loose or faulty sensor. WHY a saw with a physical/manual chain break also needs an electronic break sensor is BEYOND me, but that's what the geniuses at Husqy decided upon.

 

[Franny K]

I only have the t536I. I believe the batteries at the time maybe 144 watt hour model 150 or somewhere around that. Four indicator lights. For the newest chainsaws the x battery is needed for max perfornance. It the 300 model battery should charge fine on the 330 watt charger just take longer. https://www.husqvarna.com/us/battery-series-accessories/charger-qc330/

The chip clearance is ok for cross cuts but poor in the general product out there.

The pole saw is the best of their products in my opinion at this time. Can be shortened.




edit: this is a composite picture from the husky website. The 300 battery is wider but wider in a balanced way.

 

[nwroller]

Thanks all!

 

[Jet47]

I'm going to pickup a T540i from Husqvarna and curious how those that have one would spec it. 14" or 16" bar? Not sure which has better balance. I would keep the bar stock for the time being.

Also, would you do the 200X or 300 battery? I have several smaller batteries for other husky equipment but will need 1-2 better suited for the chainsaw.

Thanks!

Had mine for about 16 months. Tried both 16" and 14", prefer the 14". I do property lines with mine. Two of the BLi 300 batteries last me all day.

 

[Jet47]

I'm not sure of the width of the two batteries, comparatively. I'm pretty sure the two batteries that fit this series saw are different than the original batteries and will require a different charger (QC500.)

I can usually get a full day's work off two batteries, unless bucking lots of firewood or the chain loses some sharpness.

The two biggest drawbacks to these saws are the tendency to stall out (and stop) whereas a gas saw may stall but continue to power through a cut.

The other BIG drawback is the clutch cover outlet is tiny and often clogs. When bucking or stumping, ill often have to clear the channel out multiple times with my finger. If noodles are coming out, it clogs even quicker than chips.



Currently, I'm still having issues with my break sensor. Hopefully today I will be splitting the saw and investigating between loose or faulty sensor. WHY a saw with a physical/manual chain break also needs an electronic break sensor is BEYOND me, but that's what the geniuses at Husqy decided upon.

My boss and I both have the 540i. We are both having the same issue with the break sensor. If we loosen the bar nut it seems to go away. My saw is currently at the local Husqvarna dealer as they investigate.
If you find an answer let me know.

John

 

[HumBurner]

My boss and I both have the 540i. We are both having the same issue with the break sensor. If we loosen the bar nut it seems to go away. My saw is currently at the local Husqvarna dealer as they investigate.
If you find an answer let me know.

John

I split her open last month. I did find a ton of debris down inside, including fines getting into the clipped-together electrical components. Cleaned everything off, tried to make the sensor-paddle stay in place. On the third day of running normal, it started to act up again.

At some point soon, I'll split it again and disconnect the sensor to see if it can run that way. I much prefer having a functioning chain brake, but I can do without it if necessary.


I'll post on it when that time comes.

I'll be interested to hear what your resolution is.

 

[Saw Fixr]

My boss and I both have the 540i. We are both having the same issue with the break sensor. If we loosen the bar nut it seems to go away. My saw is currently at the local Husqvarna dealer as they investigate.
If you find an answer let me know.

John

I work on these for a local tree company. I’ve found that the little indent(?) where the clutch cover hooks into on the rear side, if packed up with sawdust will do exactly what you’re describing.
Ran fine until I put the bar and chain back on, and couldn’t for the life of me figure it out for a while….

 

[Saw Fixr]

The 300 batteries are a bit longer, and use the same charger.

Regarding these batteries, my biggest issue with them is that the batteries (probably all brands) is that the plastic cases break easily. However, replacement cases are available from Husqvarna, once out of warranty, or if your dealer won’t replace under warranty. 4screws and the battery pack slips right out of the case. Beats a $200 bill to buy a new one. Even if you Could get them right now.
The insides aren’t really serviceable though, as the batteries are all epoxy potted together.

 

[HumBurner]

I work on these for a local tree company. I’ve found that the little indent(?) where the clutch cover hooks into on the rear side, if packed up with sawdust will do exactly what you’re describing.
Ran fine until I put the bar and chain back on, and couldn’t for the life of me figure it out for a while….

I'll check mine out in the next few days.

Adding the dust cover has helped some with the overall dirtiness the last few weeks of run time.

I usually blow it all out with air once a week or more, but maybe that hole got clogged and I overlooked it. Despite keeping the drum groove clean, I still get fines and debris in the worm area, as well.

 

[Jet47]

I work on these for a local tree company. I’ve found that the little indent(?) where the clutch cover hooks into on the rear side, if packed up with sawdust will do exactly what you’re describing.
Ran fine until I put the bar and chain back on, and couldn’t for the life of me figure it out for a while….

I will check on Monday.
Thanks.

 

[Saw Fixr]

Actually, even simpler… does it run with the clutch cover and bar/chain removed?

 

[HumBurner]

Actually, even simpler… does it run with the clutch cover and bar/chain removed?

Yes

 

[Saw Fixr]

I’ll bet that’s it then….

 

[HumBurner]

The hole was mostly clean, but I cleaned it out again at lunch. No change.

It's definitely within the sensor/electronics and the mechanisms involved.


Again, having a brake sensor is the dumbest feature, especially when there is a physical chain brake.

Hopefully Husqy revamps the next line of battery saws.

 

[Jet47]

The hole was mostly clean, but I cleaned it out again at lunch. No change.

It's definitely within the sensor/electronics and the mechanisms involved.


Again, having a brake sensor is the dumbest feature, especially when there is a physical chain brake.

Hopefully Husqy revamps the next line of battery saws.

Made no difference in mine either.

 

[Saw Fixr]

Damn….. sorry I couldn’t help then. I was sure that would have been it…

 

[HumBurner]

Damn….. sorry I couldn’t help then. I was sure that would have been it…

No harm, no foul. Start simple and work outward.

Thanks for the suggestion.