Husk 440 starting problem

[PT81man]

A "friend" asked me to look at his saw. I replaced the gas tank about a year ago after a tree fell on it. Now it will not run, there are times it will fire one or two times after some starting fluid. There is a good spark, new non-ethanol gas with the correct oil mixture in the tank. I reset the H and L mixture screws to 1 1/2 turns CCW from closed. The stone gas filter is clean. The primer pump is filled with fuel.
I am considering installing a new carb but that is after all other options are completed.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[rupedoggy]

Put a compression gage on the saw and tell us the exact number

 

[Wood Doctor]

If you do not have a compression gauge, just hold the saw by the pull cord handle and give it a slight jerk. If it falls to the floor on its own, you have insufficient compression and likely need a new top end.

 

[PT81man]

Using my old Snap-On tune-up set, I read between 75-80 PSI.
Thanks.
Dan

 

[.358 win]

A "friend" asked me to look at his saw. I replaced the gas tank about a year ago after a tree fell on it. Now it will not run, there are times it will fire one or two times after some starting fluid. There is a good spark, new non-ethanol gas with the correct oil mixture in the tank. I reset the H and L mixture screws to 1 1/2 turns CCW from closed. The stone gas filter is clean. The primer pump is filled with fuel.
I am considering installing a new carb but that is after all other options are completed.

Any help is appreciated.

You came to a place Full of chain saw Guru's.. That will all ask you for more information other than " a tree fell on it".. Pics are essential, plus the back story, or the history.. Just to spark someone's interest in assistance. Step up.. First, look for the most obvious.... Simple logic

 

[rupedoggy]

Using my old Snap-On tune-up set, I read between 75-80 PSI.
Thanks.
Dan

Bingo! We have a winner. What does he get for a consolation prize Vern? LOL

 

[Chris Gilliam]

I'm rebuilding my 440 now for the same thing. Mine appears to only need a ring. Let us know what ya find.

 

[leaf]

FWIW, I just worked on some 440s. One of the easiest top end rebuild projects in all of chainsaw-land. (impact driver, 4 mm hex, and long torx bit - and its apart and ready for cleaning in half an hour). I did/do use assembly lube rather than 2-cycle oil. Definitely change crank seals whenever you have it split. Carb is "both on one side" (bottom) style - only likely issue is pump diaphragm/alcohol. Start closer to 2 turns out on the carb screws. The fuel (and fuel return) hoses crack just as they come through the housing in ways hard to see. The black plastic-ish thing around the carb is prone to cracknig around the outside, a little bit 'fussy' to seat right. Be careful to get the right flywheel (rarely / never need changing, but...) there are flywheels out there of the same diameter with very different ignition timing to the key position (barely/don't start and don't run). Ignition modules can get cooked, but perfectly suitable replacements are plentiful and cheap. My start is purge, choke on, couple of pulls until you hear the first of igniting. Then choke off, starts right up...

 

[PT81man]

Thanks for the reply. I removed the plug and when cranking I hear a "clicking" from what appeared to be inside the cylinder. I am going to check my Stihl to see if I hear this same noise. If a rebuild is required, I don't think it is going to be my job. Changing the cracked case last year was more than I wanted to do but I was already into it.
I am going to check to see if the flywheel is located correctly on the crankshaft.
I did check the fuel lines and they are flexible with no cracks.
The owner is very hard on saws and I am wondering if he should bite the bullet and buy a Stihl?
Regards,
Dan

 

[rupedoggy]

I don't care where the flywheel is, how good the carburetor is, or how much you pull on it. It will NEVER run with 80 pounds of compression. You asked for help. Here it is!

 

[Chevboy0167]

Remove muffler, look in the exhaust port of the cylinder with a flashlight, slowly pull over engine with pull cord and look for scoring on the piston.

Does it look like this? Or similar?

 

[Mike Ray]

if he ran it with a cracked case may have cooked it.

 

[PT81man]

I replaced the case last year. Now to the question, are the Chinese replacement piston and head worth it? I see you can get a rebuild kit for around $50. OEM head and piston are around $90 without all the other 'stuff' from Husky.
The inside of the chain cover is black with oil so I would also change the crank seals.
Is it really worth it? Not considering the time and longevity of this saw.
BTW my son found an Echo 15" on FB Marketplace for $150. Sounds good running on the posted video.
Opinions?
Thanks,
Dan

 

[Tomos770]

If you will "wrenching" on your own.....you will at least know what you have....

Its not a rocket science after all...

 

[Chris Gilliam]

I replaced the case last year. Now to the question, are the Chinese replacement piston and head worth it? I see you can get a rebuild kit for around $50. OEM head and piston are around $90 without all the other 'stuff' from Husky.
The inside of the chain cover is black with oil so I would also change the crank seals.
Is it really worth it? Not considering the time and longevity of this saw.
BTW my son found an Echo 15" on FB Marketplace for $150. Sounds good running on the posted video.
Opinions?
Thanks,
Dan

Proline is an American made piston. There is a decent looking used OEM cylinder on Ebay right now I put on my watchlist before I took mine apart. You may not need one, I didn't. Mine is still apart because I need new 5x25mm screws, but I'll probably fit it back together today.

 

[Chevboy0167]

I'm no cylinder guru, but damn near everybody here and maybe other places, says the port timing and shape of the original OEM cylinders outclasses most if not all aftermarket kits for a stock unmodified saw. I tend to agree.

If the piston and or cyl. are not salvageable: just my opinion, YMMV

New, OEM kit= Best but more expensive and sometimes not even available.

Used OEM cylinder with new OEM or cleaned up original piston and new rings, as long as the bore is in spec., still round and plating not worn through=Better

New aftermarket kit= 1st-Meteor, 2nd- Hyway...... = Better than a $35 kit no name kit!
Caveat!!!! Even these kits may not run as hard as the OEM designs. A very thorough inspection is needed to find any defects or sharp edges that may cause a problem. Some hand sanding with fine grit sandpaper or a scotch-brite pad to "knock down" the edges or flashing.

New aftermarket no-name kit for less than $40.00= total crapshoot. May run for 15 minutes or 15 years. Performance unknown. You might get lucky!

Many threads on here on the aftermarkets with bad outcomes.

The choice is yours and your wallets!

 

[PT81man]

Thanks for your input. I'll check around for other suppliers.
On another subject, how do you remove the crank seals? I've seen the videos on installing them using the Coke can trick but none on the removal. Do you just pry them out with any usable instrument?

 

[leaf]

I don't care where the flywheel is, how good the carburetor is, or how much you pull on it. It will NEVER run with 80 pounds of compression. You asked for help. Here it is!

Sheesh, I was trying just to be a little bit gentle and encouraging, say it is actually a pretty easy saw to change out piston/ring or piston/ring/jug..... probably can end up w/ some compression doing that w/decent components... (then you clean up rest o' saw.... etc got something to cut with...)

 

[Tomos770]

Thanks for your input. I'll check around for other suppliers.
On another subject, how do you remove the crank seals? I've seen the videos on installing them using the Coke can trick but none on the removal. Do you just pry them out with any usable instrument?

When you unscrew 4 bottom screws which hold cylinder in place.....and remove its cylinder....those seals pops out of a groove....and can be easily changed...

Youtube....husqvarna 435 or 440 or 450 or 455/465 porting...dissasembly etc......plenty of videos out there on a YT

 

[Chevboy0167]

At about the 17 minute mark shows removal of crankshaft.