Husky 266se chain brake assembly

[David Mayers]

I do hope that someone can help, I am restoring a Husky 266se "1980's " model, I am having difficulty in assembling the chain brake, as the previous owner let the saw get into poor mechanical state. I have assembled it with a new brake band, the lever seems to function ok, but won't lock the saw, hope that someone can help regards thanks David.

 

[pioneerguy600]

The membership will want pics of what you have there, good closeups of the band and clutch area. handle and connecting hardware bits.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

This style?

 

[pioneerguy600]

This style?

View attachment 957381

Old School.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Old School.

Who? Me or the old paper service pamphlet?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Who? Me or the old paper service pamphlet?

The brake handle and brake assembly. The newer ones are more plastic parts, I like the old school ones better.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

The brake handle and brake assembly. The newer ones are more plastic parts, I like the old school ones better.

I figured 1980's and SE might lend itself to the old school metal flag brake.

 

[David Mayers]

This style?

View attachment 957381

Thanks yes, this is the same model as mine, herewith a picture of mine assembled, as I mentioned in my post the action of the chain brake feels ok, but not "locking " regards thanks David

 

[GenXer]

When it's open take a flat screwdriver and turn the set screw on the end of the spring, watch how the band tightens, I forget if it's cw or ccw. Put it back on and tighten it up until you can't spin it by hand release the lock and turn it a bit more, test and tighten if needed.

 

[David Mayers]

When it's open take a flat screwdriver and turn the set screw on the end of the spring, watch how the band tightens, I forget if it's cw or ccw. Put it back on and tighten it up until you can't spin it by hand release the lock and turn it a bit more, test and tighten if needed.

 

[David Mayers]

Thanks for the post, I have the "nut" fully adjusted, also the "screw" on the top of the mechanism doesn't seem to have any effect on the adjustment, not sure what it's function is thanks regards David

 

[GenXer]

the set screw is under that knurled screw, I have crap internet and can't send pics sorry, I'm not sure of the purpose of that screw, it is missing on both the saws I have here, and this is the first time I've seen one.

 

[GenXer]

From Bob's parts listing above, tighten PN 501 83 10-01, I'm not sure what PN 501 61 17-01 is and what it's for.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Thanks for the post, I have the "nut" fully adjusted, also the "screw" on the top of the mechanism doesn't seem to have any effect on the adjustment, not sure what it's function is thanks regards David

Looks a wee bit like the band you have in your photos is a little too large and not forming a full circle- it appears (may just be optical illusion?) to be extending past a circle after the attachment points to the shaft, extending down and starting to curve looks to be too long and possible not sitting in the correct spot at the other end of the band where it hooks into the casting- cannot see that for the chip deflector.

Could it be you have found a band for a larger brake, like that of a 181 or similar?

EDIT: Maybe scratch that last sentence- just looked at a service bulletin for the 181 and it gives the exact same part number for the 181 band as the 266 band.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Can you remove your clutch bell and place it in the band circle, with the brake activated and deactivated?

To my eye at the moment the band looks too long, but the clutch bell sitting in the circle of the activated brake will show if it is a correct fit- or still too large a circumference to lock in place and capture the clutch.

 

[David Mayers]

Can you remove your clutch bell and place it in the band circle, with the brake activated and deactivated?

To my eye at the moment the band looks too long, but the clutch bell sitting in the circle of the activated brake will show if it is a correct fit- or still too large a circumference to lock in place and capture the clutch.

thanks for the helpful advice, I just used my vernier caliper, and measuring the clutch bell/drum circumference against the chain brake in the locked position it's millimetres away from "interference " possibly I could place a washer/spacer at the top of the main spring putting it under more tension, and then being able to gain adjustment with the screw, I have checked seem to have all parts for the assembly, apologies for the long post regards thanks David

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

thanks for the helpful advice, I just used my vernier caliper, and measuring the clutch bell/drum circumference against the chain brake in the locked position it's millimetres away from "interference " possibly I could place a washer/spacer at the top of the main spring putting it under more tension, and then being able to gain adjustment with the screw, I have checked seem to have all parts for the assembly, apologies for the long post regards thanks David

I must admit to being more familiar with the plastic flagged type of brakes and do not know differing styles and part numbers off the top of my head- but to me it appears the band is just physically too long to work in this application.
I have no doubt the parts you have are all there and assembled correctly- just one of the parts may be an incorrect fit.
Possibly that band is from a Jonsered fitment?

 

[Woodslasher]

Or a mislabeled elusive 2100 band!

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Or a mislabeled elusive 2100 band!

Do they not mount up differently at the top? With another hook system versus the two hole, two pin split bar system?

 

[Woodslasher]

Do they not mount up differently at the top? With another hook system versus the two hole, two pin split bar system?

IDK, my 2100's don't have brakes. I was just trying to think of another metal-flag brake system that is larger.