Husky 266XP and 268XP issues

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sandycb

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I have a Husky 266XP that I had to do a top end rebuild on. While I was waiting for parts I bought a used 268XP which was fine - started well, idled fine etc.

Got the 266 working in the end so now had to 200 series....nice!

However, both have no begun to play up. I left gas in over the summer so had to clean out the carbs on both and eventually got them going again. Both throttle locks are a bit gone, so I have bodged a cable tie that I slide over the throttle until they start (with choke) and then quickly slide them off which seems to work fine.

However both are now refusing to start unless I have that cable tie on, even when warmed up. The moment I ease off the gas, they stall. I did tune them both using the low speed jet so they were idling about 2600rpm but now, even with the low jet screwed in tight, they stall unless I have the finger on the gas. I can't adjust the low jet any more. If I screw it out even half a turn, they die.

I also noticed that when they were cutting, they were losing power/beginning to bog. I am a bit reluctant to crank the high jet in any more (they are both quite close to being fully turned - beyond standard factory setting - so don't want to cook them, as that was what led to the rebuild of the 266!).

Any ideas? I put new gaskets etc onto the 266 carb, so it should be in good nick. Spark plugs are new, and there is fuel getting to them (or they would not start). New fuel. They don't have spark arrestors to clean off, so can't try that. I don't have a compression tester, but guess that if they start (even if it takes an age) they have sufficient compression. So if not fuel, carb, block or exhaust...then what?!

Thanks!
 

sandycb

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Thanks for the quick reply...I will look at those pistons and check for scoring. You mention that you find the screws being in as suspect...what would that maybe indicate to you?
Thanks
 

sandycb

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I was thinking about that but I a very light/recreational user (I cut firewood a few days a year and other random tasks...mind you last weekend I hauled in over a ton of split lots, so a good saw is kind of key!) so getting a pressure and vacuum test kit comes in at about £150....it comes to the point where I am throwing good money after bad!
 
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You have a good saw on your hands, seals and o-rings would cost much less than tools to do a pressure vacuum test. Make sure the metering lever is adjusted properly. Also make sure the diaphragm and gasket are in the proper order. Gasket on carb side and diaphragm on cover plate side if that makes sense.
 

sandycb

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Thanks...metering lever is a new one on me? Where do I find it?

I put a carb rebuild kit on the 266. Have not got into the guts of the 268 yet!

Thanks!

(update...sorry...found it! Yep, will be stripping down both carbs and will look at these)
 
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On the carb, there’s a thin stamped metal plate. Under that plate is the diaphragm and metering lever. The diaphragm will have a short protrusion with a groove in it. The metering lever has a slot that will slide onto that groove, almost like a fork. If you take it apart/have taken it apart you’ve probably seen it. You have to slide that “prong” into the groove in the metering lever. The gasket goes on first, then the diaphragm if that makes sense.
 

sandycb

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Will do...may be a while as (sadly!) have full time job that takes most/all of my time!! But will do some tinkering in the margins and report back. Thanks for your help...from all the way across the Pond!
 

dogfather

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more leaking crankshaft seals...when you close a needle all the way and the saw still runs, that means it's getting air some place other than the carburetor. more often than not on those older saws (remember most are mid-80's and are nearing 40-years no one has bothered to do the simple seal job, but always messes with the carb.
 

John Stryker

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The low jet on the carb isn't for adjusting the idle. You should be using the idle screw for that. I suggest going back to the original settings for the H and L, and turn in the idle screw to raise the idle.
 

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