Jimmy in NC
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I figured this thread needed a little excitement....:hmm3grin2orange:
Ummm...yeah!
Jimmy....mobile.
Husky 288 Build Thread
- Thread starter cat-face timber
- Start date
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Ummm...yeah!
Jimmy....mobile.
Been over an hour and I still dont see the forest!!:msp_w00t:
Hey Clint, you have a way to get the cases split, I have the specialty tool and you are welcome to borrow it if you need it!
cat-face timber
Knot Bumper
Finally got back to it.
Progress...
And do you like my Saw fixing hat?
Progress...
And do you like my Saw fixing hat?
cat-face timber
Knot Bumper
The nut that holds on the Flywheel is a real ##### to get off.
I sprayed WD-40 on it, try again tomorrow after work.
Any Ideas?
Thought about heat....
I sprayed WD-40 on it, try again tomorrow after work.
Any Ideas?
Thought about heat....
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
I removed mine with a 3/8 'butterfly' type impact gun on a low setting. Are you sure you're turnin' it the right way? It's a regular RH thread nut. The clutch on my 'donor' saw was REALY on there however. There was corrosion at all around the bar pad. Rust on the clutch drum too. Looked like they were cutting somethin' nasty, and not cleaning the saw afterwards. Took a 1/2" impact gun at #2 setting to spin that bugger off. Wasn't too worried about messing up that crankshaft as it wasn't the one I was using. You need to clean some parts my friend. Keep at it. The resulsts will be worth it.:msp_thumbup:
[video]http://s171.photobucket.com/user/Eccentric_photo/media/CAM00625_zps6f387ec5.mp4.html[/video]
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Get yourself a good heavy leather glove and hold the flywheel with your left hand and use a impact gun to remove it. Usually all it takes is a 3/8ths impact to do it.
cat-face timber
Knot Bumper
I will try this tonight..
Working on this saw has been a life saver...
Work is very stressful, and after I spend a few hours working on it.
I feel better!
Thanks again for all the help!
I will have lots and lots more questions!
Working on this saw has been a life saver...
Work is very stressful, and after I spend a few hours working on it.
I feel better!
Thanks again for all the help!
I will have lots and lots more questions!
cat-face timber
Knot Bumper
I got the Flywheel nut off..
Now the Flywheel..
It is stuck good.
I will now have to build a puller.
Moving Forward....
Now the Flywheel..
It is stuck good.
I will now have to build a puller.
Moving Forward....
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Yeah these NEED a puller. The usual flywheel removal tricks didn't work on mine. I used my el-cheapo steering wheel puller that I've had for 20 years or so. Unscrew the starter pawl pivot bolts from the flywheel to access those threaded holes for the puller.
I used the top inner bucking spike screw (passes through the muffler bracket) from my two parts saws along with some fender washers (I don't have a big selection of metric bolts to try). Those screws were the right size/pitch and the right length for my puller.
Had to trim the edge of the washers to clear the jack screw on the puller (because the pawl screw holes are pretty close together). Worked like a charm on two flywheels. Tightened it down a bit (didn't go crazy) and then one or two smacks on the jack screw with a hammer popped 'em loose.:msp_thumbup:
My puller looks kinda like this. Cost me something like $10-$15 back in 1990-something.
Something like this balancer puller would work so long as the slots extend close enough to the center.
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Yeah these NEED a puller. The usual flywheel removal tricks didn't work on mine. I used my el-cheapo steering wheel puller that I've had for 20 years or so. Unscrew the starter pawl pivot bolts from the flywheel to access those threaded holes for the puller.
I used the top inner bucking spike screw (passes through the muffler bracket) from my two parts saws along with some fender washers (I don't have a big selection of metric bolts to try). Those screws were the right size/pitch and the right length for my puller.
Had to trim the edge of the washers to clear the jack screw on the puller (because the pawl screw holes are pretty close together). Worked like a charm on two flywheels. Tightened it down a bit (didn't go crazy) and then one or two smacks on the jack screw with a hammer popped 'em loose.:msp_thumbup:
My puller looks kinda like this. Cost me something like $10-$15 back in 1990-something.
Something like this balancer puller would work so long as the slots extend close enough to the center.
I use the harmonic balancer type, remove starter pawls and thread bolts for puller in there, leave nut threaded a couple of threads on crank to protect crank, apply some heat to area around crank and fw and then some pb blaster while hot, apply firm tension and then smack the tension bolt a couple of times, repeat as needed!!
cat-face timber
Knot Bumper
Bar Stud Issue
While I was cleaning my saw I tightened my bar nuts and the front bar stud pushed in the case.
The back bar stud did not go in but just turns in the case.
If the threads are good, do I need to replace the Bar Studs?
How do I get the bar studs to stay in the case?
Here are some pics.
While I was cleaning my saw I tightened my bar nuts and the front bar stud pushed in the case.
The back bar stud did not go in but just turns in the case.
If the threads are good, do I need to replace the Bar Studs?
How do I get the bar studs to stay in the case?
Here are some pics.
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Eccentric
Mister Wizard
The studs have a head shaped like the crossbar on the letter 'T'. That fits into pockets within the right case half when the stud is fully inserted. Grab the stud with pliers and pull it through while rotating it. You should feel it drop into place when oriented correctly. If you are splitting the cases you will easily see the stud area from the back side. With a good flashlight you should also be able to see the stud heads through the bar oil tank filler hole as well.
cat-face timber
Knot Bumper
In the cases that I have split before, I saw th bar studs are covered in some black looking glue stuff that is very hard.
Do I glue the bar studs back in? If so what do I use?
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
They of course used some sort of sealer. I'd think that something like Motoseal or Threebond 1194/1184/Hondabond4/etc, or some other oil resistant sealer would work fine. Get things as clean as you can so the sealer can adhere. When you put that together put a short bar and a clutch cover on and tighten the bar nuts to hold the studs in place. Leave it for a while to cure.
cat-face timber
Knot Bumper
Great morning for saw work.
Nice and cool, rained most of the night.
Finally got the Flywheel off...
Managed to break two flywheel fins off..:bang::bang::bang:
Had my granddaughter helping me.
Now to clean it up some and split the case.
Some Pics.
My Helper..
Nice and cool, rained most of the night.
Finally got the Flywheel off...
Managed to break two flywheel fins off..:bang::bang::bang:
Had my granddaughter helping me.
Now to clean it up some and split the case.
Some Pics.
My Helper..
cat-face timber
Knot Bumper
Split the case! 
Heated the case and tapped out the bearings.
Here are some pics.
Heated the case and tapped out the bearings.
Here are some pics.
cat-face timber
Knot Bumper
Been doing some cleaning.
Now ready for bearings, seals and going back together.
Now ready for bearings, seals and going back together.
cat-face timber
Knot Bumper
What year was my Husky 288 made?
Similar threads
Withdrawn
Need some 288 parts
