Husky 3120xp vs Stihl 881?

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Just my opinion, I bypass the 881 and get the 3120. Better oiling for one, cheaper (last time I looked and way) price tag on the power head, and extremely reliable. Last time I had to the chance to run an 880 it was a bear to start as well, but could have been the exception and not the rule. It was also very stingy on oil output imo as well. We were running a 36" on it.
 
Manufacturers spec B&C oil outputs for the 3120 is between 30-54 mL/min while for the 880 its between 17-38 mL min.

However, what really matters is that any oil that is output actually reaches the bar on the other side. When I did some measurements a few years back I found that most of the extra oil output by the 3120 is lost at the nose because of the centrifugal forces involve. This is useful for plunge cutting but for milling It makes more sense to use an Aux oiler to add the extra oil after the chain had gone around the nose. These measurements were trigged by (before I did those measurements) the time when I spent couple of days milling with a 3120 in seriously hard Aussie hardwood and although the saw was consuming a lot of oil I could not understand why the chain was still dry so I then added an aux oiler and this solved the problem.

Both saws suffer from the same flaw of a forward facing exhaust so that when milling the top half of a log the exhaust reflects off the log back up towards the operator.. This may not worry folks in cold climates so much but here when its 100+F in the shade that hot exhaust just adds to general fatigue. This was my solution to this and while I was at it I opened up the exhaust outlet.allonn.jpg
What I did not realise at the time that this means the sawdust then falls into the exhaust stream and blows it a away from the operators feet. This means minimal sawdust buildup so the operators level along side the log stay the same throughout the milling operation.
 
Manufacturers spec B&C oil outputs for the 3120 is between 30-54 mL/min while for the 880 its between 17-38 mL min.

However, what really matters is that any oil that is output actually reaches the bar on the other side. When I did some measurements a few years back I found that most of the extra oil output by the 3120 is lost at the nose because of the centrifugal forces involve. This is useful for plunge cutting but for milling It makes more sense to use an Aux oiler to add the extra oil after the chain had gone around the nose. These measurements were trigged by (before I did those measurements) the time when I spent couple of days milling with a 3120 in seriously hard Aussie hardwood and although the saw was consuming a lot of oil I could not understand why the chain was still dry so I then added an aux oiler and this solved the problem.

Both saws suffer from the same flaw of a forward facing exhaust so that when milling the top half of a log the exhaust reflects off the log back up towards the operator.. This may not worry folks in cold climates so much but here when its 100+F in the shade that hot exhaust just adds to general fatigue. This was my solution to this and while I was at it I opened up the exhaust outlet.View attachment 895668
What I did not realise at the time that this means the sawdust then falls into the exhaust stream and blows it a away from the operators feet. This means minimal sawdust buildup so the operators level along side the log stay the same throughout the milling operation.
I like that attachment Bob! I have been wanting to divert the exhaust as I find on long millling days the exhaust can get a bit much. Is that a bolt on flange that attaches to some part of the muffler housing?
 
I have been leaning towards the husky at this point. I need to talk to the local dealer and see if he has good support for those saws. I was originally thinking the stihl would be better as I already have one and could possibly share bars and chains between the saws but the 881 runs a different chain and bar to the ones I have. If I need to get some bars and chains regardless I may go the route that requires less cash ...
 
Nice looking stuff psuiewalsh, what is it? As for the bar adapter, that’s an interesting thought. I looked into the 881 bar and chain spec and it wants to run .404 chain and bar. Those current specs don’t line up with my 461 gear. Any chance you know if the 3120 can run the 461 bar and 3/8” chain?
Black walnut. You can run the 461 bar and 3/8 chain. You need an adapter or stud spacers to mount the bar.
 
Good to know, black walnut should make for some nice projects!
I pulled the trigger on a 3120 today! Found a new one set up at a local dealer for a guy that backed out of the deal. Came with a 42” Oregon bar and 3/8” chain conversion. Got an ok deal on it. Any pros and cons to the 3/8” vs .404 stock setup???
The guy at the shop said he figured the 3/8 chain swap was a smart one, easier to get chains, mind you he did want to sell the saw so can’t say I totally believe it.
At what size bar do you want to upgrade to a .404 bar?
Any thoughts?
 
Also one more thought, break in for the big beast? I was hoping to just put it on the mill and do some small quick stuff, give it lots of breaks and go for it that way. What are your thoughts on that guys?
 
Good to know, black walnut should make for some nice projects!
I pulled the trigger on a 3120 today! Found a new one set up at a local dealer for a guy that backed out of the deal. Came with a 42” Oregon bar and 3/8” chain conversion. Got an ok deal on it. Any pros and cons to the 3/8” vs .404 stock setup???
The guy at the shop said he figured the 3/8 chain swap was a smart one, easier to get chains, mind you he did want to sell the saw so can’t say I totally believe it.
At what size bar do you want to upgrade to a .404 bar?
Any thoughts?

All my stuff is 3/8 all the way up to my 72” bar.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I like that attachment Bob! I have been wanting to divert the exhaust as I find on long millling days the exhaust can get a bit much. Is that a bolt on flange that attaches to some part of the muffler housing?
Here's a few pics.
The rectangular exit on the original exhaust (NB this includes the spark arrester) was replaced by the modified exhaust extension
The rings were inserts used to determined the constricted size of the exhaust hole.
Their sizes ranged from that of the original exhaust opening (smallest ring opening) to full flow thru as determined by the size of the Al pipe (smallest ring)
Its tricky to see but the rings had radiused IDs for smooth flow.
Bits1.jpg
Here you can see the recess in the connecting plate where the rings sit and are held in place by socket screws either side of the ring.
Bits2.jpg

Below is schematic cross section of the whole thing - note slightly radiused ID edge of ring
Inserts.jpg
Bolted in place
gaps.jpg
Can still use original clutch cover. - can also remove clutch cover without removing exhaust extension.
oldcluthc.jpg

I ended up using the ring with the largest opening as I could still tune it without having to replace the main jet.
It does use noticeably more fuel that the stock saw muffler.
Performance pick up is marginal but it does run cooler.
One of the best mods I made on this saw - the other was the remote throttle using a motorcycle throttle.
top.jpg
 
Thanks Bob! Nice bit of machine work you have done :). When you talk about the tune I assume you are just referring to carburetor screws?
 
One problem you may run into with modding the exhaust on the 3120xp is that it has a fixed high jet.

Some guys have managed to replace the jet, others have reamed it out a tiny bit. I wasn’t comfortable doing either, so have yet to open the exhaust up as much as I would like to.

Randy (Mastermind) has started offering OEM carbs modified to feature an adjustable high circuit. Still eagerly awaiting the arrival of the one I ordered - with his track record of attention to detail, I’m hopeful it’ll be the ticket.
 
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