Husky 346 rebuild problem for a newbie...

tkshrout

tkshrout

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I used old metering lever.
I did not use compressed air, but did spray with carb cleaner.
I don't have the ability to pressure test crankcase.

I'm looking towards the carb because when it shuts down the plug is coated with gas, definitely getting too much.

What would "cleaning seal" look like? sanding them flat?

Just want to get this saw up and going. If carb is most likely any recommendations on replacement thats not 70$?
 

J D

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Just make sure the mating surfaces are clean & will seal on the gasket as well as possible... If they're flat then fine sandpaper on a flat surface or a flat blade/scraper works well
 
Vintage Engine Repairs

Vintage Engine Repairs

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Slowwwwww down. I know the feeling of being eager, but your carb may be perfectly fine. $70 is way better spent on a mityvac and not another carb that may be fine.

Firstly, make sure you know what you’re doing with your screws. Tuning was such a confusing topic for me just a couple years ago, that I set out to make a video that you literally can’t get wrong.

Listen to the sounds and process…

regarding smoking on start up of a new engine, yeah don’t worry about that.

a slight leak out of the atmospheric drilling in the carb is totally fine too, the gaskets will leak a bit very slowly until fuel has soaked them and they have fully compressed.

Here I am fogging out the mozzies -

2B6BD3AA-5552-4C20-ABB2-13A5EDFF2411.jpeg

And see if this video I made helps you out at all. Take a video of your saw too, it will help people here in directing you - what you think you hear and what you’re actually hearing can be two different things

 
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Mike Gudgeon

Mike Gudgeon

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Complete carbs are unbelievably cheap these days. Throw one on without even touching the screws and see what happens. There shouldn't be lots of fuel in there and it can only get in there through the carb (unless there's something REALLY weird going on), so if the carb is metering half decently there will be no flooding - at least not like you have mentioned.
Also, you might want to re-check your fuel/oil ratio. Maybe what you think is flooding is heaps of oil from the mix? Unlikely but possibe.

You probably know, but if and when you DO get around to adjust the screws on the new carb;
'All the way in' is clockwise until you can screw no more BUT GENTLY. If you seat them too hard you will damage the carb irrepairably (is that a real word?). There are other cases where 'all the way in 'til you can screw no more' is helpful, but I'd best not go there.

I fully agree with a. palmer jr. about being sparing with the oil when you do a build. The rings and little end are where it's really needed for this situation.

The good news is that the things runs! Yay! Sorting the fueling is an inconvenience but IT RUNS! WooHoo!
 
tkshrout

tkshrout

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Ok, so I tried the steps in vintage's video (nice video by the way). Things seemed to be going good, but after adjusting for awhile (5 minutes), saw began to just cut out when I hit throttle.

In the beginning it throttled up fine. Then it got to the point where throttle cut it out. Got it restarted once, idled and then died on throttle again. Was fully flooded after second instance of this happening- wet spark plug, wouldn't restart even with open throttle pulling on cord.

I'm torn- could it be something with the saw getting warmed that I could throttle when its only been running for a few minutes, but then will compeltely die on throttle a bit later?

Again- this is new oem P+C, i replaced the intake boot clamp for the metal type... I don't have the ability to vac test the cylinder.

Should I try a new carb?

Thanks again for the assistance!
 
tkshrout

tkshrout

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Ok, so I tried the steps in vintage's video (nice video by the way). Things seemed to be going good, but after adjusting for awhile (5 minutes), saw began to just cut out when I hit throttle.

In the beginning it throttled up fine. Then it got to the point where throttle cut it out. Got it restarted once, idled and then died on throttle again. Was fully flooded after second instance of this happening- wet spark plug, wouldn't restart even with open throttle pulling on cord.

I'm torn- could it be something with the saw getting warmed that I could throttle when its only been running for a few minutes, but then will compeltely die on throttle a bit later?

Again- this is new oem P+C, i replaced the intake boot clamp for the metal type... I don't have the ability to vac test the cylinder.

Should I try a new carb?

Thanks again for the assistance!
The original smoke while running has cleared up btw- seems like it was probably the oil I used when assembling.
 

J D

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You've probably just got one a bit too far out... Set them both back to 1 turn out & start again (make a note of how many turns out you had adjusted them to for future reference).
If you have an air leak tuning will be problematic
 
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