Hi i am new to milling i am doing it for the fun and small project like a small trailer or at 4 wheeler cover. I have a huksy 55 1998 air injected i was runing a 15 inch blade. I swaped it for a 20 inch 3\8 pitch i swamped.the sproket for a 3\8 7t i was trying to mill a 14 inch log and the ring melted . is the blade to much for the saw should i grind some link yo make a skip chain with the brand new 20 inch 3\8. Or should i stay with the 14 inch blade ?
Husky 55 1998
- Thread starter Mmeloche
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biggerstaff94
ArboristSite Operative
Im guessing Extended periods of full throttle with a heavy load is what did it in or it had an air leak. Both 55s ive run have had 20” bars and cut great but i dont mill with mine. Im not saying you cant mill with it but its never going to be happy doing it.
Yea i know its a small saw . for making cross cutting with the 20 inch it was a beast but again not 14 inch of theet where in the wood . i just want to make 2x6 or 2x4 or 4x4 for small thing . is it possible to grind theet to make a skip chain will that help or just stay with smaller wood and the 3\8 20inch will be ok ?
biggerstaff94
ArboristSite Operative
I would buy or make a skip tooth and stick with smaller wood. Im not sure what would happen when you grind every other tooth off your chain so someone else would have to comment on that.
What do you mean, the ring melted? I have never seen a ring melt.
Could be an air leak, tuned too lean, carbon flaking off etc. If you don't find out what caused it, it will happen again. Don't grind cutters off the chain. Use it as is. Let the saw cut, don't lean on it. Tune it a tad rich for milling.
Yes.
Any, and ALL 55's, 355's, 455's, and 455 RANCHERS will cheerfully turn a 20" ser-up, given the adjustable oiler......set on full.
The bar length, H.P., engine size, brand, etc.....mean nothing. Its the chain that does the work.
Chainsaws don't have blades. They have chains that run on guide bars, that mount to the powerhead........and the chain does the work...
I dont have a ajustable oiler on mine . you knew what i meant by blade i know they dont work alone. And i dont agree that hp chain mean nothing i cant mill a 42 inch log on a 55 the chain will get stuck in the wood to much theet to pull on that small engine . thx for trying to be a smartass
BrettS
ArboristSite Operative
Just FYI, chainsaws don't have 'blades" they have bars.
Now then, there is a heap of variables here, what ration oil are you running?, is the air filter clean?, your not trying to force the saw through the log?, your mixtures are correct etc etc....
I have milled with my fathers Husky 55 (that I built for him), it runs a 18" bar with standard angle cutters full comp chain and fairly zips through the logs we pointed it at so no reason yours shouldn't if the saw was running well.
BrettS
ArboristSite Operative
Yes, don't listen to ole capt'n brucey, he likes to act superior to everyone else but he only baffles himself with his own bull
I run a 40 to 1 oil mix the air filter look clean i blew it out with the air compressor .i was. Ot a le to force it it the second a pushed a little the saw bogged down so i had to let it go and it was. Making saw dust . the chain was new out of the package and on his 1 cut a oregon 3\8 standard pitch 35. 72d all i can see is my carb was to lean .but if the carb is to lean does it gove less power to the saw ?
There's some good tuning videos on YouTube. You need to watch them. You shouldn't have any throttle hesitation. If your carb is good, the L needle needs adjusting. If the H is too lean, it's getting too much air and not enough fuel/Oil. Same as with an air leak, it will score the piston.
L is low side, H is high side, the other screw, usually T is for idle speed. Watch the videos.
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