Husqvarna 141 no start

[mutt07]

Hello all. Hope everyone is healthy and well. Not sure what I’m doing, this is my first ever post on any site and I apologize for breaking rules and such but I’m trying my best to learn and grow here. I’ve got a Husqvarna 141 with a WT 660 walbro carb on it. 50:1 fuel oil mix always. 140 psi compression. Keyway intact and sound. .012 air gap on coil and .024 plug gap. Cleaned entire saw and carb stripped carb including needle valves to make sure passages were clear etc. don’t have a walbro tool but I have the metering lever set to just touching a machinist scale. Pressure tested carb before stripping and was slightly wet internals. Held 7-8 psi for 2 hour. Same after rebuild. Only gunk was at screen. Unit will not start. Only a Pop now and then. Exhaust screen/mesh clean. Only thing I did was drilled the tank hole to 3/16. Insert a 3/16 tube with fuel filter then before to gets to carb from tank I stepped back down to 1/8 stock. There was something pinching the factory hose at the hole more towards tank. Could not get to out which is the reason for oversizing the hole. I’m thinking of everything I’ve done so I don’t leave anything out. It’s long winded for sure I apologize and hope not to be ejected from this site for my ignorance. I can’t do much physically these days because three massive heart attacks, Covid and now diabetes has destroyed my once active life. I went from a working out 4 times a week 44 year mechanic to 50 lbs overweight can’t walk much from 29% heart function to only being able to do bench work. Thank Christ I still have that. But. My bench work in the past was more engines and fab work. I am being bested by a chainsaw that by all indication should fire up. I’ve tried the low needle from 1/2 open to 3 turns open. Results are the same. Zip Anyway. If like I said I’m in the wrong spot for posting or I have broken any site rules I am sorry and if my privileges are revoked I do understand. Thanks guys for your time and patience. I wish you all a blessed Holiday season. Vaya Con Dios.

Mark

 

[frank_]

have you tried a drop of fuel down the carb mark ? tried it with the muffler removed ?

 

[mutt07]

have you tried a drop of fuel down the carb mark ? tried it with the muffler removed ?

Hiya Frank. I appreciate the response. Yes sir I surely did. I’ll be quite honest. There isn’t much I haven’t tried with this saw. Funny tho since day one it’s always been a little hard to pull start. Maybe 8 pulls then she’d kick over, run all day. Start right back up. My son used it and he said she was bogging so I figured it was time to carb clean. Btw. Chain and bar have been on the entire time. Brake on and off

Mark

 

[Chevboy0167]

I have been working on these small series of saws all summer just cuz parts are cheap and plentiful. Try setting the coil gap between 8-10 thou I use a business card to gap. Pull plug and lay against the cylinder with plug wire on, pull recoil to check for a bright blue spark with ignition switch on and try with coil wire off also.

Also with the age of this series, I see the crank seals getting hard and leak, the impulse tube will rub on the intake boot and have a hole in it causing an air leak and low vacuum to carb to run the pump flaps.

Start both the H and L needles on the carb at 1 1/2 turns out from fully seated. Turn in the idle screw 2 turns just after the screw hits the throttle bracket for a base starting point. When ya get it running, you will have adjust all of these parameters again to get it to rev up and top out with some 4 stroking out of the load/wood.

 

[mutt07]

I have been working on these small series of saws all summer just cuz parts are cheap and plentiful. Try setting the coil gap between 8-10 thou I use a business card to gap. Pull plug and lay against the cylinder with plug wire on, pull recoil to check for a bright blue spark with ignition switch on and try with coil wire off also.

Also with the age of this series, I see the crank seals getting hard and leak, the impulse tube will rub on the intake boot and have a hole in it causing an air leak and low vacuum to carb to run the pump flaps.

Start both the H and L needles on the carb at 1 1/2 turns out from fully seated. Turn in the idle screw 2 turns just after the screw hits the throttle bracket for a base starting point. When ya get it running, you will have adjust all of these parameters again to get it to rev up and top out with some 4 stroking out of the load/wood.

Hiya and thanks Chevboy0167. I believe you got it on the nose. I found the impulse pipe split. I Then received an email from Husqvarna stating exactly what you advised. Me and the tech talked shop for quite a while and I explained your advice to him and he basically agreed, based on the work I’ve done. I just wanted to say thank you for your advice and the time you took to help me. To further prove your right I searched until my eyeballs went red. I am no computer or phone guy but I found an article on Husqvarna 141’s having this same issue as mine almost even new ones. I think it splits on the seam of the tube. My son is gonna bring home some heavywall fuel tubing the size of the impulse tube. Also ordered ten? From eBay. Won’t be here until January lol. Must be coming from the Far East haha. Just again a big thanks. I wish you a blessed day
Mark

 

[Chevboy0167]

Cool beans. I do advise to remove the muffler front cover and take a look at the piston thru the exhaust port. Pull the recoil through an entire stroke and watch in there with a flashlight. There may be some scoring on the piston if the saw has ran long lean with that air leak. You can still show "decent" compression on a gauge, but the piston ring could be hung up in the land causing blow-by, won't hold a carb tune and poor performance in general.

 

[mutt07]

Cool beans. I do advise to remove the muffler front cover and take a look at the piston thru the exhaust port. Pull the recoil through an entire stroke and watch in there with a flashlight. There may be some scoring on the piston if the saw has ran long lean with that air leak. You can still show "decent" compression on a gauge, but the piston ring could be hung up in the land causing blow-by, won't hold a carb tune and poor performance in general.

Yea. That was one of the first checks I made. Reason was hard to pull with recoil. Plug out. No resistance. I took both sides off muffler and intake just didn’t pay attention to impulse pipe at that point. Cylinder bore is spotless. Zero scratches. Looks really good. I’ve seen some bad bores lol. But the info is invaluable you gave. Very appreciated

 

[mutt07]

Yea. That was one of the first checks I made. Reason was hard to pull with recoil. Plug out. No resistance. I took both sides off muffler and intake just didn’t pay attention to impulse pipe at that point. Cylinder bore is spotless. Zero scratches. Looks really good. I’ve seen some bad bores lol. But the info is invaluable you gave. Very appreciated

heya Chevyboy hope all is well with you and yours. Still no start on the 141. New impulse pipe plus gasket. She pops every 100 pulls. Plug not well. Metering system setup properly with walbro tool. Even bought a aftermarket carb to test and still zip. Very odd situation. Any tests to be certain it's getting fuel? Like in real time test that your more aware of than I am. Thanks Chevy. Be blessed
Mark

 

[Wood Doctor]

Check the plug after a few pulls. If wet, it's getting fuel. But the fuel-air mixture may be wrong. If spark is OK, new carb may be on the agenda.

 

[Chevboy0167]

Drop a table spoon of mixed fuel down the carb throat with the throttle trigger pulled wide open. Let off throttle. Try to start. If it starts or pops over, pull the choke to try and keep it going to warm it up. After 3-5 seconds if it runs on choke, push choke in without touching the throttle trigger. It should keep running on hi idle until you "blip" the trigger after letting it run another 10 seconds.

If it won't even pop over at all after adding fuel down carb, you have a spark or timing issue.

 

[Chevboy0167]

I start the carb jet needles both at 1 1/2 turns out from gently fully seated and idle screw turned in like 3 full threads after the screw tip just touches the butterfly shaft cam lever. That usually gets me started until it warms up then I can make some adjustments to keep it running. I adjust again after I run the saw for a bit in some wood to get my final settings after fully heated up. Setting idle without chain spin, set L circuit from idle up 1/4-1/2 throttle acceleration until a smooth transition to full throttle without hesitation. 4 stroking out of the wood and cleanup when in the wood at full throttle on the H circuit.

 

[mutt07]

Drop a table spoon of mixed fuel down the carb throat with the throttle trigger pulled wide open. Let off throttle. Try to start. If it starts or pops over, pull the choke to try and keep it going to warm it up. After 3-5 seconds if it runs on choke, push choke in without touching the throttle trigger. It should keep running on hi idle until you "blip" the trigger after letting it run another 10 seconds.

If it won't even pop over at all after adding fuel down carb, you have a spark or timing issue.

I'll try it again. Getting some fuel down the throat and the throttle. I'm wondering if yes it's sparking strong and blue outside case but maybe the aftermarket coil is just junk. Wonder what kinda ohms I can meter out. Could just be aftermarket crap causing this. I'm disabled so only getting a few dollars once a month hence why I bought aftermarket. New coil came with filter wires plug and carb for 40 bucks but. Maybe that's the problem. I'll try once more thanks gentlemen. I haven't been able to talk to anyone since I joined here. I feel good amongst good honest men helping each other out. God bless you all. Talk soon
Mark

 

[Chevboy0167]

I had a 136 last month that had no spark. Original coil wire was rubbed through on cylinder head and grounding out. Bought a used OEM coil off of eBay cuz I just don't trust aftermarket. $22 total, 12 for coil and 10 to ship. Worked perfectly. But I do see an OEM new coil on the bay now for like 16 bucks I think. I may stock up a few!

 

[mutt07]

I had a 136 last month that had no spark. Original coil wire was rubbed through on cylinder head and grounding out. Bought a used OEM coil off of eBay cuz I just don't trust aftermarket. $22 total, 12 for coil and 10 to ship. Worked perfectly. But I do see an OEM new coil on the bay now for like 16 bucks I think. I may stock up a

 

[mutt07]

Oh I agree. If I had a steady job like before it's OEM without a question. Ya know lemme pass this past you guys. I had to drill out the hole for the fuel line to tank initially before all this started. There was a problem with the plastic for some reason crimping the fuel line shut. Ok. So drilled too next size up, 3/16, then went from tank, filter,new 3/16 hose up thru newly drilled hole, then back to factory 1/8 hose. Here's the question.. Maybe with choke it initially gets fuel but as you pull starter, maybe the two hoses aren't sealed, just enough allowing air in with the fuel, I don't see bubbles suggesting it, but these things being so touchy. Just maybe I should use 3/16 all the way?... What do you guys think...or .am I just crazy now lol

 

[Chevboy0167]

How are matching up the 2 different sizes of hose? Pic? It can be done with the correct adapter. Yes, must be tight connections or fuel may leak back down into the tank. That may explain why you get it to pop over every 100 pulls! LOL Would have to pull fuel alll the way back into the line up to the carb every time you try to start it after it sits.

Or might not be a problem at all.....

 

[Chevboy0167]

I will admit, the factory fuel line is pain to install but not impossible. And yes, it does "look" like it will be pinched at the tank hole but I assure you it doesn't. Tight fit to keep fuel from leaking out when saw tipped on it's side or fallen over.

 

[4CornersPuddle]

As Neil Young would say, "Innaresting." Months or years go by on this site with no mention of an H141. Then in the same week, you and I are solving the same fuel line issue on our saws.
I ordered a replacement line from Amazon. The one they sent was too small in ID to fit over the nipple on my carb. I looked around my shop bench and found a line that I'd been given for a H240. It fit the carb and the fuel filter, so I drilled out the hole in the tank to 3/16" and used that line. No leaks; no crimped line. Old fuel line had rotted and broken in the tank. I split the old line where it had passed through the seemingly undersized hole in the tank top. It indeed was crushed to the point that fuel would not pass through. Possibly the old fuel had caused the old line to expand or swell, choking itself off.
If you can find the correct 1/8 x 3/16 fitting, you may solve your leakage problem.
Good luck.

 

[mutt07]

As Neil Young would say, "Innaresting." Months or years go by on this site with no mention of an H141. Then in the same week, you and I are solving the same fuel line issue on our saws.
I ordered a replacement line from Amazon. The one they sent was too small in ID to fit over the nipple on my carb. I looked around my shop bench and found a line that I'd been given for a H240. It fit the carb and the fuel filter, so I drilled out the hole in the tank to 3/16" and used that line. No leaks; no crimped line. Old fuel line had rotted and broken in the tank. I split the old line where it had passed through the seemingly undersized hole in the tank top. It indeed was crushed to the point that fuel would not pass through. Possibly the old fuel had caused the old line to expand or swell, choking itself off.
If you can find the correct 1/8 x 3/16 fitting, you may solve your leakage problem.
Good luck.

Ain't that something. Here we sit on opposing sides of the states and we have the exact same issue. I was in pretty bad shape today but tomorrow I'm gonna seperate the two lines and go with 3/16 only. One I called husq and they said it will NOT be an issue sizing up due to the carb regulating the fuel. I think Chevyboy hit the nail on the head cause my line is forced into the bigger line possibly draining it back to tank or putting just a slight drag on the fuel to carb. This is a fine science per se. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Mark

 

[mutt07]

How are matching up the 2 different sizes of hose? Pic? It can be done with the correct adapter. Yes, must be tight connections or fuel may leak back down into the tank. That may explain why you get it to pop over every 100 pulls! LOL Would have to pull fuel alll the way back into the line up to the carb every time you try to start it after it sits.

Or might not be a problem at all.....

Exactly wrong. I should have tried finding a barbed fitting but I just forced it into then tugged it to make sure it's snug but. Since it's smaller into larger, it could be drawing just enough fuel back as you suggest. Tomorrow I'll find out. Since it's technically not pumped up to carb but drawn up it's hard to find a meter to read that but I might have an idea to check. After all I got nothing to lose tryin at this point lolol

Mark