Husqvarna 254 tuning help

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Kerryd15

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Hi, First post here. I am working on a Husqvarna 254 it has a HDA 35b carburetor. i do have mechanical ability and have cleaned many carbs for other small engines and motorcycles but this one is driving me nuts. I have had the saw for 8 to 10 years. always use 91 octane. i use a couple tanks of gas a year.
The saw had weak spark so i put a new coil in it. spark is very good now. i have cleaned the carb multiple times- and it did not look to be dirty. i used a little metal wire to make sure the ports were open, carb cleaner and compressed air. i installed new gaskets and diaphram. i set the meter lever level with the housing- which is what it was. i set the Low and high jets at 1.25 turns out. it starts and runs but bogs out. i leaned the idle about a 1/4 turn and adjusted the idle down to stop the chain. it idle and revs well... the issue im having is at wide open. it just keeps bogging out. if i hold the throttle wide open- use a short squirt or carb cleaner off to the side of the air cleaner it just dies. its still getting too much gas. i currently have it running the best- without bogging while cutting- with the High jet completely tight!! which does not make sense. the high and low have different threads so they are not interchangeable- i checked... what am i missing? there is something wrong with the high jet circuit. i did try blowing in the inlet needle to make sure it is not leaking and is clean. it does show a check ball and spring 501 468 401 and 501 that i have not looked at- later found the ball and spring are the choke friction ball and spring... number 503 592 750 repair kit for an o-ring and a tiny cup with orifice which i know is clean. is that supposed to be a check valve? i can put a wire through the middle and it goes into the High screw port... any help would be appreciated. looked at a replacement carb for $220. saw is not worth that. im thinking one of the check valves or the main jet are ruined.
 
Hi, First post here. I am working on a Husqvarna 254 it has a HDA 35b carburetor. i do have mechanical ability and have cleaned many carbs for other small engines and motorcycles but this one is driving me nuts. I have had the saw for 8 to 10 years. always use 91 octane. i use a couple tanks of gas a year.
The saw had weak spark so i put a new coil in it. spark is very good now. i have cleaned the carb multiple times- and it did not look to be dirty. i used a little metal wire to make sure the ports were open, carb cleaner and compressed air. i installed new gaskets and diaphram. i set the meter lever level with the housing- which is what it was. i set the Low and high jets at 1.25 turns out. it starts and runs but bogs out. i leaned the idle about a 1/4 turn and adjusted the idle down to stop the chain. it idle and revs well... the issue im having is at wide open. it just keeps bogging out. if i hold the throttle wide open- use a short squirt or carb cleaner off to the side of the air cleaner it just dies. its still getting too much gas. i currently have it running the best- without bogging while cutting- with the High jet completely tight!! which does not make sense. the high and low have different threads so they are not interchangeable- i checked... what am i missing? there is something wrong with the high jet circuit. i did try blowing in the inlet needle to make sure it is not leaking and is clean. it does show a check ball and spring 501 468 401 and 501 that i have not looked at- later found the ball and spring are the choke friction ball and spring... number 503 592 750 repair kit for an o-ring and a tiny cup with orifice which i know is clean. is that supposed to be a check valve? i can put a wire through the middle and it goes into the High screw port... any help would be appreciated. looked at a replacement carb for $220. saw is not worth that. im thinking one of the check valves or the main jet are ruined.
 

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  • E05973CA-6B3E-4AB7-A75A-647DC5FB6E5D.jpeg
    E05973CA-6B3E-4AB7-A75A-647DC5FB6E5D.jpeg
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The 2 holes circled in red are both open to the high range screw. Is the gold one supposed to be a check valve?
 
The 2 holes circled in red are both open to the high range screw. Is the gold one supposed to be a check valve?
In a word, yes. It's a "fixed jet" in the high speed circuit of the HDA-35B - introduced to stop users tuning their saws to destruction. Without this built-in leak, adjusting the H screw for maximum chain speed could end up with it running virtually unloaded at over 14,000 rpm because the engine breathes so well, Sadly though, the big ends tended to self-destruct.

So, while there may indeed be something wrong with the carb, you shouldn't worry about the H screw being all the way in, as long as it's four-stroking at no more than 12,500epm unloaded.
 
BTW, do you have an IPL and service manual?
i do not. i have the basic HDA manual off the Walbro website and exploded view of the carb. Im not buying that i reamed out any of the orifices. I have another guy taking it home to look at it and try another working carb. anyone have an old working HDA 35b laying around? what other carbs would work? i read that the 254, 257, 261, 262xp were all the same carb? when i look the other models up they show HDA 120, or HDA 144 whats the difference between these?
 
Going off memory here.
The HDA 120 replaced the HDA 87 on the 262XP. It was also the standard carburetor on all 257's to my knowledge. The HDA 144 was used only on the detuned Husqvarna 261. Perhaps the real late 254's.
Differences between the two from memory is the HDA120 high speed circuitry is mostly if not 100% controlled by he H screw. The HDA144 had plastic limiter caps so the adjusting sleeve is different from the sleeve used on the 120. I believe 20% of the high speed flow is adjustable by the H screw on the 144. IMO the 144 is a bit easier to tune, but both are good carbs.
Either carb will work fine on your 254. I have them on all my 254's. Direct bolt on replacement. Remember the different adjusting sleeves.
Likely members have these two carbs setting around if you can get someone to part with one to help you out. Sometimes available used on eBay.
I'll finish by reiterating that I'm not a big carb guy. If one of the carb experts wishes to correct me I'm open to it and will learn also.
Most likely if you search the old threads you will find the information you want/need.
 
Either of these could be hard to find due their age but..
The early 154 carb (501 87 88-01) is an HDA 18A and is identical except for the "fixed jet".
Also mid 1980s 44 carbs, listed as HDA in the IPL (501 79 80-01) will also swap in.

IPLs and manual attached
 

Attachments

  • Husqvarna 154_254 Workshop Manual.pdf
    6.3 MB · Views: 4
  • Husqvarna 154 84.014.pdf
    230.3 KB · Views: 0
  • husqvarna44-1985-11.PDF
    196.5 KB · Views: 0
  • 254_1988-02.pdf
    227.8 KB · Views: 1
  • 254 IPL - 1.1996.pdf
    233.5 KB · Views: 2

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