Husqvarna 268 won’t start

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gdocktor3

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I did my research first I promise. I got the saw for $20 as it wouldn’t start for previous owner. Thought it’d be an easy fix. It’s not. It’s clean, so someone worked on it. Coil, plug and wire appear new. Tried 3 different plugs. It has spark with all. Pulled cylinder off. Piston, ring, cylinder clean. Compression held at 155 psi. Air filter, fuel filter and hoses are new. Pulled carb and cleaned it. All gaskets still good. Pulled stator off and checked the key. That’s clean and intact, possibly also new. I adjusted tuning screws on carb. Disconnected kill switch.
 

gdocktor3

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Squirt gas in filter holder or under the plug if you can get it to run few seconds. If she starts,then you can then concentrate on fuel problem or air leak somewhere.
Poured some fuel into cylinder head. No fire. I’m waiting for the sealing collar to arrive.
 

gdocktor3

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Wait a minute. You poured mix into the saw that has 155 compression and still no go? That means fire at wrong time or wrong strength.
Correct. Is there a way test voltage at the coil and if so what should it read?
 

Bob Hedgecutter

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So, the carburetor on my saw only has one barbed fitting and hose coming off it and that is fuel delivery. Should the 268 have another barb for impulse line?

No that is correct- the 268 impulses through the intake block- small hole alongside and top on the main throat intake tract.
But- impulse means nothing if pouring primer fuel straight down the intake tract to the combustion chamber will not fire off.
Impulse vacuum works the "fuel pump" to draw fuel into the carb from the tank- priming down the carb throat bypasses any impulse/fuel delivery issues.
 

gdocktor3

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No that is correct- the 268 impulses through the intake block- small hole alongside and top on the main throat intake tract.
But- impulse means nothing if pouring primer fuel straight down the intake tract to the combustion chamber will not fire off.
Impulse vacuum works the "fuel pump" to draw fuel into the carb from the tank- priming down the carb throat bypasses any impulse/fuel delivery issues.
So what would you suggest?
 

gdocktor3

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Is the coil China aftermarket or OEM?
Lol I truly do not know and was thinking that also. I’ll check. With that said, because everything appears new (coil, plug, filters, hose, etc) I believe these parts were replaced because the problem already existed. So there is a chance it is another bad coil, but I was hoping to diagnose and troubleshoot a little more before I just start changing parts. I do have an old 371xp I can steal the coil from though I just realized.
 

Bob Hedgecutter

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So what would you suggest?

I suggest listening closely to rupedoggy - he is most usually on the correct track. ;)
Sounds to me like it could possibly be a mistiming issue, something to do with the replaced coil.
Be interesting to see if the 371 coil works out- leave all the kill switch wiring off and give it a whirl- if it fires up you can kill it with the choke.
 

hotshot

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I think he meant rotor.

Need to leak test the case, but why in the world would you pull the top end off?, if it had a good 155# compression test & no visible scoring.

Compression test doesn’t “hold”, but leak testing the case in both vacuum & pressure sure should, all day long.
 

gdocktor3

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I think he meant rotor.

Need to leak test the case, but why in the world would you pull the top end off?, if it had a good 155# compression test & no visible scoring.

Compression test doesn’t “hold”, but leak testing the case in both vacuum & pressure sure should, all day long.
The top of the piston looked marked up. It was just build up. How do I leak test the case if I may?
 

gdocktor3

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Maybe bad flooded but anyway: take an old spark plug, widen the gap to about 1/4 inch, plug it into the boot and hold it against the cylinder in a semi dark place. If it jumps that the coil is probably good.
So I did widen the gap on a plug and it seemed to jump to the side rather than make the 1/4” jump if that makes sense. I pulled the coil off. The 371 has a different style coil so that didn’t work. The one currently on my saw said “DAYED 4” “designed in Italy” Not sure if that’s good brand or not? Can I test the Coil voltage With a meter? When I pulled the coil, the winding? was rubbing right against the flywheel. When I reassembled it I put it about an 1/8” away because I simply didn’t know any better but assumed it shouldn’t be rubbing. I’ve since read it should be a credit card width off the flywheel. I feel I would still get some life out of the saw no matter what distance it is from the flywheel, no?
 

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