Husqvarna 350

[Skippydiesel]

People tend to give me their old equipment - I love bringing most (not all) back to useful life. This time its a Husky 350. Owner replaced it "because its leaking bar oil". Easy fix thought I. First problem, what model is it? Husqvarna have the worst model identification system (or lack of) that I have come across - not even my local Husky dealer could work it out. Long story short - by viewing a number of exploded parts diagrams, I narrowed it down to a Model 2001-09 (it has a Walbro carburettor and no fuel priming bulb). So have bitten the financial bullet and ordered a list of parts, starting with replacing bar oil metering/ delivery bits, but also vibration isolator rubbers, carbie kit, spark plug, air filter, a few missing screws, etc. I like clean equipment - this saw was bogging (in large part due to excess bar oil being distributed throughout the workings) - how it kept going is a miracle and a testament (I hope) to being a good saw.

I like Husky saws - in 1985, I started with a Partner 400 (retired but still on the shelf). I now have a Husky 450 - great little saw. Same weight as the P 400 but seems to have oodles more power to get through Australian hardwood. Its let down by a ridiculous bar tightening system, that I have learnt to live with and the lack of of bar oil delivery adjustment. The 450 out performs the two Stihl saws, that I have, a 034 AV & a MS 290.

I know nothing of the 350 - would appreciate your comments (have I done my dough??)

 

[Northerner]

It may have the serial tag behind the handle on the clutch side.

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

I started with a Partner 400

Here's one I prepared earlier!

 

[John Lyngdal]

A Husky 350 has spring AV, with one spring on the underside of the crankcase on the bar end and the other on the handle above the rear upper corner of the starter cover.
However, there are some rubber limit cushions used in the AV system.
The 350 is a solid saw and may like to rebuild them using a 346 piston and cylinder to get a bit of extra performance. Is the coil body blue or black?

 

[sean donato]

I'm still trying to understand how a plastic cased saw, leaked bar oil and that caused it to bog? If it leaked into the crankcase area it would mean the case is junk. (?) your dealer must not be too good if he couldn't look up the parts off the serial number.

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

I'm still trying to understand how a plastic cased saw, leaked bar oil and that caused it to bog? If it leaked into the crankcase area it would mean the case is junk. (?)

Most likely due to a combination of the following. The pump cover plate gets bent or loosens, the rubber outlet becomes unsealed and/or pump cylinder and plunger wear creates a leak, combined with a slight leak of the sealant between the cylinder base and crankcase and voila! Bar oil is sucked into the crankcase.

 

[Skippydiesel]

Ha ha ha ha! "Bogging" (Australian slang) refers to the amount of dirt I cleaned out of it - seems like I took its own weight, in congealed wood residue, out.

My apologies for the misunderstanding.

 

[Skippydiesel]

It may have the serial tag behind the handle on the clutch side.

Yeah! found it after I had started to dismantle/clean the saw - local Husky dealer says numbers don't come up on his system.

 

[Skippydiesel]

A Husky 350 has spring AV, with one spring on the underside of the crankcase on the bar end and the other on the handle above the rear upper corner of the starter cover.
However, there are some rubber limit cushions used in the AV system.
The 350 is a solid saw and may like to rebuild them using a 346 piston and cylinder to get a bit of extra performance. Is the coil body blue or black?

Thanks for 346 the tip, John.

Coil body is black.

Has two warn/damaged limit cushions but also seems to have a position/location for a third (missing)

 

[Skippydiesel]

Here's one I prepared earlier!

Looks just like the "old girl".

Husky 40 parts fit - so although my Partner still looks original, there are quite few 40 parts in her (some orange)

 

[Clyde85]

Thanks for 346 the tip, John.

Coil body is black.

Has two warn/damaged limit cushions but also seems to have a position/location for a third (missing)

If the third is located under the air box, the locator pin is all that should be there.

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

Looks just like the "old girl".

Husky 40 parts fit - so although my Partner still looks original, there are quite few 40 parts in her (some orange)

Ah! An "oranges & lemons" version
The only parts unique to the 40 are the clutch, drum & chain brake/clutch cover. Everything else is functionally identical.
The Husqvarna product management people asked for the smaller clutch because they thought the high rotating mass of the 400 crankshaft & flywheel (which came from the Partner 500/Husqvarna 50) made the engine feel slow to respond.

 

[Huskybill]

I found on my 350 the upper cylinder adapter isn’t flat on both sides. I sanded it on a flat surface. I installed the bigger carb as I was told here. It’s a little beast now.

 

[Skippydiesel]

If the third is located under the air box, the locator pin is all that should be there.

No pin. No cushion - have ordered both

 

[Skippydiesel]

Ah! An "oranges & lemons" version
The only parts unique to the 40 are the clutch, drum & chain brake/clutch cover. Everything else is functionally identical.
The Husqvarna product management people asked for the smaller clutch because they thought the high rotating mass of the 400 crankshaft & flywheel (which came from the Partner 500/Husqvarna 50) made the engine feel slow to respond.

It was a great saw. Did a lot of work with it. Mainly providing fire wood (felling dead trees & cutting well dried Australian hardwoods is tough work) but also fencing duties. Went trough countless chains/cutter bars and one whole of saw/engine rebuild. In its very early days, I upgraded the air filter and chain drive to Husky 40 standard.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I let a tree removal company manager use my Husky 353 last week. He's used to cutting with Stihl Farm Boss series saws for the past 20 years to do the bulk of his tree branch cutting. What did he say after several cuts with the 353? --> "I've been running saws in the stone age. This saw cuts faster, smoother, and is lighter and better balanced."

 

[sean donato]

I let a tree removal company manager use my Husky 353 last week. He's used to cutting with Stihl Farm Boss series saws for the past 20 years to do the bulk of his tree branch cutting. What did he say after several cuts with the 353? --> "I've been running saws in the stone age. This saw cuts faster, smoother, and is lighter and better balanced."

Just imagine of you handed him a 346xp lol. The 353 was a very good underrated saw as well.

 

[Skippydiesel]

Well most of the new parts have been installed on the 350 & the saw runs well BUT I still seem to have a lot of chain oil bypassing the cutter bar/chain.

I went to a lot of trouble to "polish" the cutter bar flat, on both sides, using a diamond sharpening block, in the hope of making a good seal against the inner/outer clamping cheek plates.

I have replaced what Husky calls the "seal" - a rubber horn shaped part and the only component that I thought might have been leaking. I will now replace, what I would describe, as the inner cheek plate. The seal presses up against the inner side of this and it may be distorted/not flat (although I thought it looked OK) so the seal may be leaking oil befor it gets into the cutter bar channel.

The only other possible leak would be the bar oil pump itself - cost a bit more to replace.

 

[Skippydiesel]

I forgot - one other problem: I cant get the chain brake/safety to work properly. It remains in the brake position no matter how hard I tried. It all looks okay. No obvious damage or parts missing. It just wont release/reset. In the end, have removed the very strong coiled spring that applies the pressure to the brake band. This negates the chain brake as a safety devise - not good. Any suggestions on how to fix this?

 

[Bwildered]

The 350 has the stupidest designed chainbrake in history, what you have done is taken the sidecover off the saw with the brake locked, I can't remember how I got mine unlocked but it takes some doing & jiggling, but it can be done.