Husqvarna 359 repair

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rkamp

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Have a Husky 359 that wont start. Pulled fuel line, no leaks, replaced plug, new felt air filter. Use only 50:1 true fuel, and do regular maintenance.
Has the Walbro carb, plastic intake clamp. Saw was purchased off e-bay 6 or 7 years ago, excellent condition, and ran great, had an extra port
cut into on exhaust manifold. Used on 4 acre property, got fired up a few times a year for cutting larger cedar juniper and the occasional oak.

Have a tuned 353 for lighter duty from a few years back done by a member in Missouri. No longer have contact information. Any recommendations for a Husky repairman?
Want to switch to Zama carb and add metal clamp. I don't want to break up the family but an orange saw is an orange saw (Echo 590).


Thanks
 

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Will do. She does pull kind of easy.
A quick compression test is to hold the saw wth the power cord only and jerk it slightly. If it drops down and falls on its own, then your compression is too low. This works with Stihls and Echos that are generally heavier than Husqvarnas, so it may not work with the Swedish saw. Regardless, it's a good scratch test. A much better inspection is to check the rings. Oh, and welcome aboard the Arboristsite forum.
 
A quick compression test is to hold the saw wth the power cord only and jerk it slightly. If it drops down and falls on its own, then your compression is too low. This works with Stihls and Echos that are generally heavier than Husqvarnas, so it may not work with the Swedish saw. Regardless, it's a good scratch test. A much better inspection is to check the rings. Oh, and welcome aboard the Arboristsite forum.

Thanks for the process. Step 1 it is. I sold a Husky 350 carcass on the board a few years ago and soon after got a
353 because of information on this forum.
 
A quick compression test is to hold the saw wth the power cord only and jerk it slightly. If it drops down and falls on its own, then your compression is too low. This works with Stihls and Echos that are generally heavier than Husqvarnas, so it may not work with the Swedish saw. Regardless, it's a good scratch test. A much better inspection is to check the rings. Oh, and welcome aboard the Arboristsite forum.
Make sure the decomp isn't pressed when you test it...
As Sean said, well worth fixing or at least passing on to an appropriate person rather than a convenient skip bin
 
Don't junk it, they are stellar saws well worth fixing

Make sure the decomp isn't pressed when you test it...
As Sean said, well worth fixing or at least passing on to an appropriate person rather than a convenient skip bin
Good to be reminded that I bought these saws for their repair worthiness.
 
Fuel filter? Put a few drops of two stroke oil in the plug hole the cylinder could be gas washed.
 
Update. Live a mile down the road from an authorized Husqvarna dealer. Would rather have a good pizzeria, did pick
up a fuel filter though. The line was not cracked but I could see that it does get bitten into quite a bit where it enters the
tank.

Took the muffler bracket and dog bracket off with 4mm hex key socket, same size as the long combo 4mm/ spark plug wrench I had.
Tried using this long hex tool through muffler tubes to remove bolts. No go, read that the 359 has 5mm hex head. PB blaster into the tubes
to loosen bolts and 3/8 drive long 5mm hex socket ordered. Should arrive tomorrow.

The Husky shop wanted $30 for a compression test. Ordered a $22 job with 10,12,14, and 18 mm adapters. Needed one anyways.

Going to rinse out gas tank, put in new line and filter, but need to pick up a more nimble long angle plier from auto store to pull fuel
line through first. Will try and start then. I did not realize that switching the red on and off switch and putting the choke in full position could
flood the saw. Living and learning.

Thanks for all the replies.
 
Sloshed a little fuel into the tank, shook saw, emptied and repeated several times. Changed the fuel line and filter. Saw started right up.
Maybe I shook loose that Walbro carb accelerator. Maybe the filter was clogged just enough, however there was plenty of fuel in line at
carburetor. Probably just flooded it by turning the kill switch off and on too many times.

Have more tools and parts on hand now towards keeping the saw in good shape. Forums like this one are great to help the novice keep his
head on straight. If the muffler bolts come off easy I will take a look at the piston and clean the exhaust screens with brake cleaner and brush.
New chain on hand and needle bearing greased.

The difference in weight between the 353 and 359 is under 2 lbs. At age 62 the extra weight is significant. The Echo 590 would add another 1.5
pounds on top of that. Incentive enough to keep this saw well maintained. Old things bought and paid for are good.

Thanks all,
Cheap Ass
 

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Cheap ass lol. Thats called being prudent. And I'm here to tell you there's nothing wrong with the walbro carb. Still have it on mine and it works just fine. If it ever takes a dump I'm gonna look long and hard to find another one. There are a few mods that can be done to them for improvement. One of the members (tree monkey may be?) Did a video in them a while back. So long ad the accelerator pump isnt shot its a darn fine carb in my book.
 
My Monday morning quarterback bet would be that fuel line. It's very common for them to get gummy and close up just inside the tank.

Glad you got it sorted.
 
Well, zip tied my throttle lever to handle and compression tested with my new $22 tester.
New plug was oily as were the threads. 50 lbs after 10 pulls, released pressure, same results.

Pulled muffler. Attached pics show rings are shot. New rings, and maybe cylinder.
Will start pricing repairs but probably needs to go to someone who can do the refurb in their sleep.
Saw may be up for sale soon. 20" bar, new 3/8 pitch chain still in package.

Thanks again,
 

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Well, zip tied my throttle lever to handle and compression tested with my new $22 tester.
New plug was oily as were the threads. 50 lbs after 10 pulls, released pressure, same results.

Pulled muffler. Attached pics show rings are shot. New rings, and maybe cylinder.
Will start pricing repairs but probably needs to go to someone who can do the refurb in their sleep.
Saw may be up for sale soon. 20" bar, new 3/8 pitch chain still in package.

Thanks again,
And you did what JD said in post #7, "Make sure the decomp isn't pressed when you test it..."
If so, looks like we nailed it back in post #2. I bought a Husky 350 five years ago in the same condition and it runs today. They are worth rebuilding. Dang things grow on you.

Welcome to the forum. (I forgot that back in post #2).
 
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