Husqvarna 359 repair

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Just to make sure I'm tracking correctly..... Did I read early on, after replacing fuel line etc., that the saw "started right up?" Then later you posted a picture stating the rings are bad? So, is the saw in regular running/cutting condition at this point now or no? If all is well, then disregard the following long winded post.

Nothing shown in the pictures, or anything that has been described, leads me to believe that your cylinder/piston/rings have anything wrong with them. Picture details aren't the same as in person I know, but all looks good from what I see. If you are looking to sell the saw, please let me know! I see no need though unless you truly just don't want to deal with it.
70psi compression on a known, good running saw, (your 353) is instant indicator that the cheap tester is not a source to trust as accurate. Your 359 being the same reading as the 353 DOES indicate it's probably just fine. Since you've already replaced the parts mentioned in the first post, I would START with a few simple things.
1 - the decomp valve The saw either got flooded when you were trying to start it and let all kinds of fuel out the decomp OR its stuck in & leaking. If you have to physically pull it out to get it to seat, it's bad. It should reseat itself to the shut position the first time the saw "pops" or runs when going through the staring procedure. They're also notorious for getting gummed up with carbon & then not seating properly. This potential "leak" is indicated by the extreme excess amount if premix that is covering the side of the cylinder. It is obviously coming from the bleed hole in decomp valve. I would replace it with a known good decomp or plug it if you don't need it.
20211010_220525.jpg

2 - impulse line Verify that the impulse line is good. It's only about an inch long and goes between the intake partition and carb. You can just pull it from the saw, plug one end, and make sure it holds pressure/vacuum. If not, replace it.

3 - carb kit &/or cleaning the kit you need is Walbro kit # K24-HDA. This is simple peace of mind if nothing else. Lots that can cause erratic behavior & hard/no start scenarios. Plugged screen, bad diaphragms, stuck/sticky needle, incorrect meeting lever height, etc. These carbs can have bad accelerator pumps, but I haven't personally experienced this as others have. In the video @davidwyby Posted, you'll see a modification to the cover on these carbs, that most of us perform.

4 - Intake clamp You already hit on this, but REPLACE IT NOW! There are a few different options/methods for installing a metal intake clamp. It's only a matter of time before the factory plastic clamp fails and cooks your top end.

One can certainly dig much deeper into a saw to find issues if need be, but these few things combined with parts you've already replaced, should have you in the ballpark.

I'm sure there are others much closer to you, but feel free to contact me if you like with any questions [email protected]
I'm up in Washington state. Shipping would be around $40 each way. My zip is 98232. I'm happy to help diagnose via email/phone call or actually work on/fix the saw in person if desired. At any rate, good luck! They are phenomenal saws and in my mind, one of the most overlooked.
 
I bet the saw is good to go if it’s running and cutting. I’d hang onto it. I love mine. I am in CA and would look at it/update the clamp if you wanted. Or send to this feller who ported mine, but he is up in WA. @Benwa



I should note that I have a couple by @huskihl as well as having attended a GTG at his place and he knows his stuff. But Ben’s waiting list is probably shorter.


Thanks for the information. The gentleman doing the carb rebuild knows his stuff.
 
Just to make sure I'm tracking correctly..... Did I read early on, after replacing fuel line etc., that the saw "started right up?" Then later you posted a picture stating the rings are bad? So, is the saw in regular running/cutting condition at this point now or no? If all is well, then disregard the following long winded post.

Nothing shown in the pictures, or anything that has been described, leads me to believe that your cylinder/piston/rings have anything wrong with them. Picture details aren't the same as in person I know, but all looks good from what I see. If you are looking to sell the saw, please let me know! I see no need though unless you truly just don't want to deal with it.
70psi compression on a known, good running saw, (your 353) is instant indicator that the cheap tester is not a source to trust as accurate. Your 359 being the same reading as the 353 DOES indicate it's probably just fine. Since you've already replaced the parts mentioned in the first post, I would START with a few simple things.
1 - the decomp valve The saw either got flooded when you were trying to start it and let all kinds of fuel out the decomp OR its stuck in & leaking. If you have to physically pull it out to get it to seat, it's bad. It should reseat itself to the shut position the first time the saw "pops" or runs when going through the staring procedure. They're also notorious for getting gummed up with carbon & then not seating properly. This potential "leak" is indicated by the extreme excess amount if premix that is covering the side of the cylinder. It is obviously coming from the bleed hole in decomp valve. I would replace it with a known good decomp or plug it if you don't need it.
View attachment 934392

2 - impulse line Verify that the impulse line is good. It's only about an inch long and goes between the intake partition and carb. You can just pull it from the saw, plug one end, and make sure it holds pressure/vacuum. If not, replace it.

3 - carb kit &/or cleaning the kit you need is Walbro kit # K24-HDA. This is simple peace of mind if nothing else. Lots that can cause erratic behavior & hard/no start scenarios. Plugged screen, bad diaphragms, stuck/sticky needle, incorrect meeting lever height, etc. These carbs can have bad accelerator pumps, but I haven't personally experienced this as others have. In the video @davidwyby Posted, you'll see a modification to the cover on these carbs, that most of us perform.

4 - Intake clamp You already hit on this, but REPLACE IT NOW! There are a few different options/methods for installing a metal intake clamp. It's only a matter of time before the factory plastic clamp fails and cooks your top end.

One can certainly dig much deeper into a saw to find issues if need be, but these few things combined with parts you've already replaced, should have you in the ballpark.

I'm sure there are others much closer to you, but feel free to contact me if you like with any questions [email protected]
I'm up in Washington state. Shipping would be around $40 each way. My zip is 98232. I'm happy to help diagnose via email/phone call or actually work on/fix the saw in person if desired. At any rate, good luck! They are phenomenal saws and in my mind, one of the most overlooked.

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.......

I am not totally un mechanical, but the learning curve on a saw can be overwhelming. With all the information I may try replacing the
clamp and partition myself unless I find someone local. That will be a priority.

Looking at the piston bottom dead center through the spark plug hole everything looks clean and shiny with no vertical marks.
Will look at replacing the decompression valve, check impulse line, carb maintenance.

Best,
Cheap Ass
 
Before you get it torn down, if your running 50:1 mix stop. Change to 35:0 mix add some seafoam to the fuel run it for a while. Repeat comp check. Your rings might be gummed up. If we don’t run saws wot they get gummed up.

It’s weird **** with saws lately.
 
Before you get it torn down, if your running 50:1 mix stop. Change to 35:0 mix add some seafoam to the fuel run it for a while. Repeat comp check. Your rings might be gummed up. If we don’t run saws wot they get gummed up.

It’s weird **** with saws lately.
Thanks for the advice. 32/35:1 with a splash of Seafoam. My muffler gasket was oily and wet just like the outside of my crank case around the
decompression valve. Have both on order should be here tomorrow.
 
50:1 isn’t enough oil. The older saws took 40:1. My husky 260 cd is 25:1. Husky did say mix 32:1 with longer bars.

I used 3 gallon can with 2.2 gallons of gas to the husky 2.5 gal mix 2t bottle.
I’m going to use 32:1 if I mix fuel. I never fouled a plug when the carb is adjusted correctly.

Those older macs run one can to a gallon. And the still run 50 years later.
 
Could just be there has been a lot of mix pulled through the saw via repeated use of the recoil starter rope- but there seems to be a whole lot more oil floating about the exterior of the cylinder than perhaps true 50:1 should be giving? The exhaust port looks well oily carboned and around the dodgy decomp valve- might be an idea while the muffler is off to take the screws off the port covers and clean the arrestor screens while you have things apart.
 
50:1 isn’t enough oil. The older saws took 40:1. My husky 260 cd is 25:1. Husky did say mix 32:1 with longer bars.

I used 3 gallon can with 2.2 gallons of gas to the husky 2.5 gal mix 2t bottle.
I’m going to use 32:1 if I mix fuel. I never fouled a plug when the carb is adjusted correctly.

Those older macs run one can to a gallon. And the still run 50 years later.

Billy, you turning this into an oil thread?
The 359's run just fine on 50:1 and they even recommend such in the owners manuals that come with the saws- if the saws are tuned for that mix.
Doesn't much matter what ratio you run if the saw is not tuned to burn it.
Photos of the piston and ring seem to prove this saw has been doing okay on the OP's choice of 50:1 premix thus far.
 
50:1 isn’t enough oil. The older saws took 40:1. My husky 260 cd is 25:1. Husky did say mix 32:1 with longer bars.

I used 3 gallon can with 2.2 gallons of gas to the husky 2.5 gal mix 2t bottle.
I’m going to use 32:1 if I mix fuel. I never fouled a plug when the carb is adjusted correctly.

Those older macs run one can to a gallon. And the still run 50 years later.
That’s 44:1

Just sayin’
 
A quick compression test is to hold the saw wth the power cord only and jerk it slightly. If it drops down and falls on its own, then your compression is too low. This works with Stihls and Echos that are generally heavier than Husqvarnas, so it may not work with the Swedish saw. Regardless, it's a good scratch test. A much better inspection is to check the rings. Oh, and welcome aboard the Arboristsite forum.
Yes, Ive heard it said that a heavy dragonfly or a pregnant wasp bumping in to it could skew the test results on a Husqvarna type saw when compression testing as the saws are so featherweight light for their displacement they may not come back down to the ground for some time.
 
No prob. When I mix premix it’s one can of husky 2t oil to 2.2 gal of gas. No 50-1 mixed used.
 
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