Husqvarna 365 to 372xp conversion

[Horrigan72]

I recently picked up a 365 with a scored p&c. The cylinder looks like it could be honed out but I'd rather bump it up to a 372xp.

I'm looking at various p&c kits on ebay. I want to do something high quality though. Looking at a 52mm hyway nikasil cylinder kit. Im just not sure what gets me to 372 power vs just 365 spec replacement.

I also am including pics of intake boot. One of the rubber tabs was folded into the boot where it goes onto intake. I believe this caused an air leak. Would this cause it to run lean and score the exhaust side?

I appreciate all the help in advance. This site and all of you have been a wealth of information.

 

[Ronie]

I'd stay away from the big bore kits and buy an OEM cylinder, Fixmytoys has them for $132.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124551059679?hash=item1cffd258df:g:kLkAAOSwup9gFIYN

 

[Horrigan72]

I'm good with oem. I see that's a single ring piston. Is that the correct one?

 

[Ronie]

I'm good with oem. I see that's a single ring piston. Is that the correct one?

They have the duel ring also and it's only $125.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124011455249?epid=2263917177&hash=item1cdfa8a311:g:g8wAAOSwv7ld9bfe

 

[Horrigan72]

Thank you.

You have any thoughts on the intake boot leak being the cause of exhaust side damage to the cylinder?

 

[Ronie]

You're welcome, it could have caused it but you should do a vacuum/pressure test once you get the new cylinder on to make sure there aren't any other leaks.

 

[Horrigan72]

You're welcome, it could have caused it but you should do a vacuum/pressure test once you get the new cylinder on to make sure there aren't any other leaks.

I definitely will. Thanks!

 

[ammoaddict]

If it's a nice saw and you plan on using it all the time, I would definitely buy the OEM kit. Some of the China big bore kits are decent, especially for a beater saw. My 52mm farmertec kit runs very well. I mostly use it for noodling and flush cutting stumps.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

 

[woodfarmer]

Why not clean and port the jug and then put a new piston in. A base gasket delete and good to go. Much better than aftermarket. That’s what I’ve had done to several saws.

 

[Horrigan72]

This is my first tear down and rebuild. Trying to keep it simple and hoping my chance for success is high. I ordered a new oem p&c for a 372xp and was thinking about a gasket delete.

 

[ammoaddict]

This is my first tear down and rebuild. Trying to keep it simple and hoping my chance for success is high. I ordered a new oem p&c for a 372xp and was thinking about a gasket delete.

You should be fine with a gasket delete. Measure squish in 4 quadrants to be sure. A slight timing advance and muffler mod usually helps too.

 

[Horrigan72]

How do you advance timing?

 

[huskihl]

The tab being folded into the boot may have allowed it to suck a little air, but I doubt it was much since the clamp was right behind it. If the saw burbles with no load and cleans up in the wood consistently the extra air won’t cause scoring.

 

[ammoaddict]

How do you advance timing?

You remove the flywheel and file some width off the key. Some saws have a separate key and some are cast into the flywheel. Then rotate the flywheel counterclockwise and tighten the flywheel nut. Just makes the plug fire a couple more degrees btdc. There are some threads and videos on it.

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[Horrigan72]

That tab was folded completely under the band that should seal against the intake. It was a pretty significant gap. The saw doesn't have a lot of hours on it otherwise I don't think.

 

[weimedog]

Did this several years ago to kind of clear up stuff. THIS was focused on the Original Edition 365 Special's to OE 372's in this case the 372 xpw 51.4 cylinder. Couple of notes, X-torq flange is longer...so another subject covered copious times in later videos. That saw, actually BOTH those saws STILL are running fine. The one "AM" is back in the shop with a busted pull start. It's had a hard life but still is in functional condition. The 372 xpw is still a low hour saw....sits in retirement waiting for its time in the sun...

 

[Horrigan72]

That video answers almost all of my questions. I'm a big fan by the way. Watched many of your videos. I have a couple questions.

One. Squish factor. I've installed new piston, arrow toward exhaust and put cylinder on with no gasket. Turning engine over and there doesn't feel like there's any contact. When I put 030 Flux core welding wire in the spark plug hole, it contacts the wire when turned over. Is this sufficient or should I check differently?

Two. I can't seem to find 1194 any where. There are multiple yamabonds...ie 3, 4 and I've found hondabond also. Are any of these acceptable and is there an alternative at napa I could grab?

Three. I think I've found and corrected the air leak at the intake. Can I assemble, run it and use brake cleaner to test for any other leaks at crank seals, etc or is that not safe?

 

[tomalophicon]

Two. I can't seem to find 1194 any where. There are multiple yamabonds...ie 3, 4 and I've found hondabond also. Are any of these acceptable and is there an alternative at napa I could grab?

51813 ANAEROBIC GASKET MAKER works well for me - it's the same as the 518 Loctite as far as I know.​

 

[Huskitoter]

People typically use small electronics solder to check squish. It's soft enough to deform without causing the piston to pivot. Measure the solder with calipers or compare to feeler gauges.

Hondabond 3 works for me.

I guess you take a chance by not vacuum testing, but I don't have one either. Rotate the saw and listen for changes in idle speed and checking with some carb cleaner (or other) is better than nothing.

 

[Horrigan72]

Well it's been done for a while but this is the first chance I had to get some video. Thank you everyone for the help!

Oem 372xp cylinder, piston and rings. Base gasket delete. 20" bar with LGX chain. Noodling seasoned hard maple.


Pretty pleased with her! Thank you again everyone for your help, guidance and inspiration!