Husqvarna 394/395 Build - Best Places for parts?

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Butter_Beard

"All probability is greater than zero."
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Just got this crank case off eBay. It's a 394, smooth spinning and no play in the bearings.

Since the 394 carbs are a lot cheaper, and I need everything from nose to fart box on this thing, I'm thinking about getting a 394 carb and the conversion kit, as the kit comes with all the linkage and everything I'll need to get the intake side done. Like under $150 for all parts and pieces. Thoughts?

Also, anyone have a super source for 395 parts? I plan on a nikasil big bore ( 100cc sounds good for my chainsaw mill powerhead ). I mean, lilred barn, chainsawr, ebay and HL Supply are good, but I'm sorta tired of going hither and yon for parts. My main concern is bolts. Everywhere I look two bolts are around $12, plus a similar shipping charge. I have a lot of spares already from previous builds and donors that have given up the ghost, but any idea where I can buy a full set of top end bolts and fasteners complete for a 395, from nose to fart box? Or...can I just use the black bolts in the parts bins at my local hardware store?

Also, if anyone has any advice for a roadblock or issue I'l likely to encounter on this one, any word would be appreciated. So far, every build has been pretty straight forward, but each one does have it's own lil tricks.
 
Rod Simonian sells a kit to convert a 394 to a 395, I believe that is the route I would take. He has already done all of the R&D and it will just be a bolt on affair. He sells Meteor products for a very reasonable rate, which is the only non OEM cylinder I would recommend.

Joe
 
Rod Simonian sells a kit to convert a 394 to a 395, I believe that is the route I would take. He has already done all of the R&D and it will just be a bolt on affair. He sells Meteor products for a very reasonable rate, which is the only non OEM cylinder I would recommend.

Joe

I was looking at this 394 to 395 kit from HL for $65 :

http://www.hlsproparts.com/OEM-Husqvarna-394-to-395-cylinder-conversion-kit-p/h40394.htm

Rod's site is a lil hard to navigate. Do I have to email him and ask? http://www.jonsered.ws/Hus_saws.html
 
You can email him or just call him tomorrow, really nice guy to deal with. He also has a video detailing this kit and how to do the conversation on his YouTube channel. The channel name is Rod Simonian.

Joe
 
Bryan Plust (BPlust) might have 394/395 parts to sell you. Bryan is great to deal with and has quite a bit of stuff.

I've converted about a dozen 394s over to using the 395 top end and I've done it both with 394 and 395 carbs. Both set-ups make good running saws.
 
Bryan Plust (BPlust) might have 394/395 parts to sell you. Bryan is great to deal with and has quite a bit of stuff.

I've converted about a dozen 394s over to using the 395 top end and I've done it both with 394 and 395 carbs. Both set-ups make good running saws.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll contact him and see what he has. I'm really excited about this one, it'll be my biggest power head to date. Of course, the real fun comes when we move to Peru and I get to build a double headed 3120 mill. :)
 
I think living in Peru would be pretty cool. I sold two 084s to a gent from Arizona who was going to Uruguay with a church group to build schools and other infrastructure. I had a woman on my fire crew years ago who was from Argentina and still owned a house near Santa Rosa. She invited me to spend a winter at her place but I never got around to it.
 
I think living in Peru would be pretty cool. I sold two 084s to a gent from Arizona who was going to Uruguay with a church group to build schools and other infrastructure. I had a woman on my fire crew years ago who was from Argentina and still owned a house near Santa Rosa. She invited me to spend a winter at her place but I never got around to it.


We're no church, just a lil Family that's relocating to a few hundred acres of coastal bliss. Going to use the chainsaw mill to make the ties to lay the railroad tracks for the bandsaw mill, as well as the main 100' supports for the house pilings and the outbuildings and dock for the boat. Nothing like a true homesteading. :)
 
I'm needing some 394 parts too.
Muffler, chainbrake handle, clutch and drum, top handlebar, lots of misc stuff.

What's everyone's experience with the AM 394/395 mufflers? I see both the tube and deflector type. Some brands better than others? Less restrictive is kinda what I'm getting at...
 
I'm needing some 394 parts too.
Muffler, chainbrake handle, clutch and drum, top handlebar, lots of misc stuff.

What's everyone's experience with the AM 394/395 mufflers? I see both the tube and deflector type. Some brands better than others? Less restrictive is kinda what I'm getting at...

From what I've seen on the tube ported exhaust versus the OEM style deflector ones, only the OEM style seem to have a screen on the exhaust port. Though, I've never had my hands on one, all descriptions seem to point to no screen on the tube style. And speaking as someone that sucked in some black walnut chips on a big bore Makita 6401/Dolmar 7900 upgrade because he didn't have a screen while running his sawmill....I'd rather have a screened port. :) Those jugs aren't too cheap.
 
I just did a rebuild on a 394 and the stupid muffler drove me nuts. Its not open inside, has a tube that goes to the outlet under the spark screen. does not lend itself to easily being opened... any other options? is the one from baileys easier to open up?
 
I have a 394 that seems to cut OK but the compression is down in the 110 lb range.I was wondering if puuting a set of rings in would up my power much.Th HL supply big bore kit looks nice.
 
you might find you need a piston and rings. the cylinder might have some transfer on it, or even scoring. at 110 the ring isn't stuck, but you are kinda close to having a meltdown.

when I think of 110, almost sounds like you were checking the compression with the decomp valve pushed in... recheck it.

if its really that low, pull the jug and see whats up. I wouldn't change it out for aftermarket unless I KNEW it was shot and really couldn't afford a new oem jug.

trimming the chassis definitely gave mine a bump in compression and power 175 -180 or so..... at 110 yours is barely running.
 
Rod Simonian sells a kit to convert a 394 to a 395, I believe that is the route I would take. He has already done all of the R&D and it will just be a bolt on affair. He sells Meteor products for a very reasonable rate, which is the only non OEM cylinder I would recommend.

Joe
Thanks joe I am still offering the parts. I also will do a complete rebuild using OEM parts and the Meteor 395 cylinder kit. . I have a new email [email protected]
 

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