The chain is dull and the rakers haven't been touched yet. When you try to cut with a dull chain the bar rails will heat up and wear unevenly putting them out of square. Also the bar groove will get too wide for the drivers; you can check this by seeing if the chain easily tips from side to side in the groove.
Sharpen the chain, set the raker height, check the rails for square, and file the burs on the rail edges.
John is right. I could see it right away in your pictures. The teeth in the one picture is rounded, Rakers look untouched. Note the little grooves in the back of the teeth on the chain. They are there as sharpening guides as you sharpen the chain as it wears out. FOLLOW THEM. I suggest the Pferd 2 in 1 file guides (as someone noted above) and follow those lines on the filing angle. Use straight even strokes, do not "rock" the files as you push them across the tooth face from "outside edge" toward the "hooked edge".
I would start at this point with a brand new bar, chain, and sprocket. Do NOT buy the cheapest you can find. Get a good Tsumura or name-brand bar, but do not assume that because it says "Stihl" on it that it is the best money can buy (they are NOT). I would rather pay $80 for a good Tsumura than $110 for a Stihl. I know it is an investment, but so is your saw, and you want it to work, and not get ruined prematurely. Every time you gas up, take three strokes on every tooth starting with one side all the way around, and then the other after you flip the saw around backwards. Use the same pressure and stroke on every tooth on both sides and mark a tooth so you don't do some twice while ignoring others on the opposite side. Watch those guide grooves as you go through the life of the chain, so you don't get off track.
When you cut - Let the saw do the work. Do not ham-fist it. If you don't have 2 enlarged dogs, consider buying a pair of "west coast" dogs. The big ones that are sharp. If you set them square to the log, and you lift GENTLY straight up on the right handle, the saw will happily cut in a straight line as long as the chain is properly sharpened. As soon as the tendency to cut to the right rears it's ugly head, stop what you are doing, and sharpen the chain correctly again. Cutting with a messed up chain is the worst thing you can do - it is hard on the saw, the other components, and you. It also wastes horsepower.
One further thing to remember, and some have a hard time with this: All wood is not the same. Soft wood will cut quickly and easily (sharpening differences are a topic for a different day for you - efficiency is not as important as proper technique until you get over this issue). When you get into hard wood (Oak is most common around here), it will not cut as quickly so have patience and don't force the saw through it.
One final thought: Please don't think I am talking down to you. It did not go unnoticed that this doesn't seem like your only or first saw. Maybe this particular one is more sensitive to technique or inadequate sharpening. Sometimes we all need to go back to basics. Also, being a newer saw to you and noting your comment on price - this may be your biggest saw. It might be more powerful and quicker to tear itself apart as things get out of alignment. It also may see more hours than the others, and you don't realize how much you are using it. If you end up in the same place after all three pieces (chain, sprocket, and bar) being replaced and starting from scratch with proper technique, I would truly be surprised and probably puzzled as to the cause. Either way, good luck, and I hope I helped.