Husqvarna 550xp cuts to the right

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This starts with a new chain and a new guide bar and although highly unlikely the source a new drive sprocket...make sure it cuts straight with all new "wear items"...
Also make sure oil is getting to the chain. After that make sure you are not putting uneven pressure on thr handle (because of any of the above) if you're forcing a chain to "cut" something is wrong.
 
I ve had a problem with this saw cutting to the right side .
I cut ash with it at first to clear out all the dead one.
Now I’m cutting maple and linden about 10 to 18 inches .
Still cuts to the right ,heats up bar .
I have replace 4 chains
I have replaced the bar .
ive turned the bar over .
the oiler tank is about empty when the saw needs fuel.
the saw oiler locked up the saw ,it was replace under warranty .
I called husky today ,did on line chat ,told them all above,
they said could be sprocket.
took saw apart ,I don’t see anything wrong with sprocket.
I filed the chain with the husky file set .
the left side chain profiles don’t look like the right but looks different I can’t measure.
I don’t know what to do ?
ive had a McCullough 2032 that cuts straighter than this saw
very frustrating ,for the amount I paid for it To have this .
GENERALLY/ COMMONLY when bar pulls to the side, it is because cutters on one side are all shorter than the other; it pulls to the longer side. I once bought a new (name brand) 7-1/4" circ saw w/ "Free Blade", first cut was an ARC instead of straight line; took blade off twice, before I realized factory had set all teeth to same side, LOL :) Did similar w/ chainsaw ONCE, sharpened 2nd side w/ extra stroke or 2 and maybe extra pressure on every cutter; I was amazed.
 
I ve had a problem with this saw cutting to the right side .
I cut ash with it at first to clear out all the dead one.
Now I’m cutting maple and linden about 10 to 18 inches .
Still cuts to the right ,heats up bar .
I have replace 4 chains
I have replaced the bar .
ive turned the bar over .
the oiler tank is about empty when the saw needs fuel.
the saw oiler locked up the saw ,it was replace under warranty .
I called husky today ,did on line chat ,told them all above,
they said could be sprocket.
took saw apart ,I don’t see anything wrong with sprocket.
I filed the chain with the husky file set .
the left side chain profiles don’t look like the right but ,looks different I can’t measure.
I don’t know what to do ?
ive had a McCullough 2032 that cuts straighter than this saw
very frustrating ,for the amount I paid for it To have this .
i want to say you have a bur on your bar. thats the usual reason.

then i would say the inside channel is wrong width for the chain and its rolling to the side.

then i remembered when i was a kid. i had a chain doing that. i had a damaged rivot or side plate and my saw guy couldnt find it at first.
 
Sometimes a fresh set of eyes...maybe take it to the Husky shop if you have run through everything here as best you can. Does your Husky dealer have good/experienced saw mechanic.Some busy shops have guys that go over and fix 20-30 saws a day.
 
The chain is dull and the rakers haven't been touched yet. When you try to cut with a dull chain the bar rails will heat up and wear unevenly putting them out of square. Also the bar groove will get too wide for the drivers; you can check this by seeing if the chain easily tips from side to side in the groove.
Sharpen the chain, set the raker height, check the rails for square, and file the burs on the rail edges.
 
The chain is dull and the rakers haven't been touched yet. When you try to cut with a dull chain the bar rails will heat up and wear unevenly putting them out of square. Also the bar groove will get too wide for the drivers; you can check this by seeing if the chain easily tips from side to side in the groove.
Sharpen the chain, set the raker height, check the rails for square, and file the burs on the rail edges.
John is right. I could see it right away in your pictures. The teeth in the one picture is rounded, Rakers look untouched. Note the little grooves in the back of the teeth on the chain. They are there as sharpening guides as you sharpen the chain as it wears out. FOLLOW THEM. I suggest the Pferd 2 in 1 file guides (as someone noted above) and follow those lines on the filing angle. Use straight even strokes, do not "rock" the files as you push them across the tooth face from "outside edge" toward the "hooked edge".

I would start at this point with a brand new bar, chain, and sprocket. Do NOT buy the cheapest you can find. Get a good Tsumura or name-brand bar, but do not assume that because it says "Stihl" on it that it is the best money can buy (they are NOT). I would rather pay $80 for a good Tsumura than $110 for a Stihl. I know it is an investment, but so is your saw, and you want it to work, and not get ruined prematurely. Every time you gas up, take three strokes on every tooth starting with one side all the way around, and then the other after you flip the saw around backwards. Use the same pressure and stroke on every tooth on both sides and mark a tooth so you don't do some twice while ignoring others on the opposite side. Watch those guide grooves as you go through the life of the chain, so you don't get off track.

When you cut - Let the saw do the work. Do not ham-fist it. If you don't have 2 enlarged dogs, consider buying a pair of "west coast" dogs. The big ones that are sharp. If you set them square to the log, and you lift GENTLY straight up on the right handle, the saw will happily cut in a straight line as long as the chain is properly sharpened. As soon as the tendency to cut to the right rears it's ugly head, stop what you are doing, and sharpen the chain correctly again. Cutting with a messed up chain is the worst thing you can do - it is hard on the saw, the other components, and you. It also wastes horsepower.

One further thing to remember, and some have a hard time with this: All wood is not the same. Soft wood will cut quickly and easily (sharpening differences are a topic for a different day for you - efficiency is not as important as proper technique until you get over this issue). When you get into hard wood (Oak is most common around here), it will not cut as quickly so have patience and don't force the saw through it.

One final thought: Please don't think I am talking down to you. It did not go unnoticed that this doesn't seem like your only or first saw. Maybe this particular one is more sensitive to technique or inadequate sharpening. Sometimes we all need to go back to basics. Also, being a newer saw to you and noting your comment on price - this may be your biggest saw. It might be more powerful and quicker to tear itself apart as things get out of alignment. It also may see more hours than the others, and you don't realize how much you are using it. If you end up in the same place after all three pieces (chain, sprocket, and bar) being replaced and starting from scratch with proper technique, I would truly be surprised and probably puzzled as to the cause. Either way, good luck, and I hope I helped.
 
GENERALLY/ COMMONLY when bar pulls to the side, it is because cutters on one side are all shorter than the other; it pulls to the longer side. I once bought a new (name brand) 7-1/4" circ saw w/ "Free Blade", first cut was an ARC instead of straight line; took blade off twice, before I realized factory had set all teeth to same side, LOL :)
Isn't that why they call it a circular saw?
 

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