Husqvarna 550xp cuts to the right

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560Dennis

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
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Location
North east ohio
I ve had a problem with this saw cutting to the right side .
I cut ash with it at first to clear out all the dead one.
Now I’m cutting maple and linden about 10 to 18 inches .
Still cuts to the right ,heats up bar .
I have replace 4 chains
I have replaced the bar .
ive turned the bar over .
the oiler tank is about empty when the saw needs fuel.
the saw oiler locked up the saw ,it was replace under warranty .
I called husky today ,did on line chat ,told them all above,
they said could be sprocket.
took saw apart ,I don’t see anything wrong with sprocket.
I filed the chain with the husky file set .
the left side chain profiles don’t look like the right but ,looks different I can’t measure.
I don’t know what to do ?
ive had a McCullough 2032 that cuts straighter than this saw
very frustrating ,for the amount I paid for it To have this .
 

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Did it do it with a brand new chain? If the cutters look different, I'd try a different file guide. The simple Oregon one works well. I like the pferd 2 in 1 as well.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
Not really ,but after new new chain went coulple of tank full s
 
New bar on the saw old bar on driveway both same results
 

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Dennis, I must confess that seven years ago I bought a 100' reel of chain that the MFG replaced after I had it examined by a professional chain sharpener (and myself). The depth gauges on one side were machined too high, consistent throughout the chain. Could be that your new chain loops all suffer the same way. It happens, but it is rare.
 
I watched a video on 550xp mark 2 by a old millennial. He has a new saw , cutting rounds . That saw acts like mine , I noticed a puff of white smoke coming from the saw bar on the fourth cut ,he immediately pulls out of the log. Mine does that also ,that bar is hot ,
I also noticed some of his cut the cut is drifting to the right
 
Those bars look incredibly worn for still having paint on them.

Check the tops and sides of the rails for burrs.

eliminate the burrs from the sides of the bar, then eliminate the burrs and/or unevenness from the tops. If the tops of the rails are very worn, you may need to hit the sides of the bar lightly again, as filing may create additional small burrs.

Most importantly to check is the wear patterns on the bar nosesprocket tip AND where the bar "meets" the sprocket at the clutch.

I have a feeling this will solve your problem.
 
Could be a combination of issues. Are you using a 3/16 file? The rakers on the left side look lower than on the right side in the last pic (camera angle?). The top edge on the cutters should be straight like the witness mark instead of curved (bottom side pic).
 
This is a shot in the dark,but I have seen people run their chains too tight,and when the saw and chain cool down the chain will retract so much it will actually bend the crankshaft.Is the engine running smooth and not vibrating your teeth out?Bent crank will throw the sprocket out of line and cut crooked.Also,someone else posted they have bought "bad " chain new.I have personally bought dull chains out of the box,usually Carlton.Just a few things to consider.
 
Operator error, the chain is blunt & the depth gauges are a different height from the left to right side.. A learner mistake, one must stop cutting when the chain is blunt or not cutting straight, otherwise it starts getting expensive to fix it when irreversible wear happens on one side of the the bar groove and chain driversimage.png
 
"Operator error... "
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Correct. Based on the above Pic, that saw would pull right, assuming it had enough edge to cut anything. I thought in post #3 that you said that you tried a new chain, whatever "new" meant. "Another" chain might have been more accurate. Just MHO.
 
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