Husqvarna 562xp seized

[kab5275]

2018 562xp. Very few hours.

Hey fellas. Don’t post much here and haven’t been lurking for awhile but I just had an unfortunate event happen this morning. My saw was running fine. Sat it down idling and it locked up. Tore the top end off, it’s in good shape. Looked down in the crank and noticed plastic chunks everywhere. What kind of bearing do they have in the crank that would tear apart? What would cause this. Also check out the black intake cover over the cylinder head. Is it supposed to be deformed like that? I’m guessing not. No signs of heat distortion there.
I know the bottom end is gone, just looking for some insight being curious.
Thanks!

 

[Woodslasher]

The plastic means your crankcase bearing races have failed, Husky offers updated bearings with steel races now. Your crankshaft itself and your cases should be fine, just take a peek at your flywheel/coil and make sure they didn't rub when the bearings failed. Also no, the intake is not supposed to be deformed like that. Good luck with the rebuild!

 

[kab5275]

The plastic means your crankcase bearing races have failed, Husky offers updated bearings with steel races now. Your crankshaft itself and your cases should be fine, just take a peek at your flywheel/coil and make sure they didn't rub when the bearings failed. Also no, the intake is not supposed to be deformed like that. Good luck with the rebuild!

Thanks Woodslasher

 

[Ronaldo]

Since it was only idling when the race failed, everything else really should be fine.

Sent from my SM-G930VL using Tapatalk

 

[kab5275]

I see you can get short blocks for significantly cheaper then buying a splitter and puller. Only thing is I’m thinking they probably don’t come with the updated bearings in them. Not sure what my plan of action will be.

 

[huskihl]

About $120 for a loaded shortblock on eBay. Dealer may have a similar price. Each bearing with the seal is about $40 by themselves.

More oil in the mix and a sharp chain seems to fix the problem

 

[cdntbone303]

Look up case splitting using a heat gun. Split a 357 for the first time this way the other day. Heat case around bearing, not on bearing or crankshaft. Put on nut/clutch to protect threads whichever side is blown and knock it out with rubber/brass hammer. Punch/pull out old bearing. Use heat and cold to put back together with new bearing/seal. Check your stuffers while your there make sure they are tight and not loose. Had one de rail and scrap a top end on a 562

 

[kab5275]

Got my cases split today via the heat method. Worked like a charm. Not sure how this tiny dent happened on the bearing mating surface of the crankcase, maybe a few thou of a dent. I don’t think it’ll cause a problem but what do I know

 

[cdntbone303]

Got my cases split today via the heat method. Worked like a charm. Not sure how this tiny dent happened on the bearing mating surface of the crankcase, maybe a few thou of a dent. I don’t think it’ll cause a problem but what do I know

Cool deal. I got a 550xp to do tomorrow using this method.