Husqvarna 572 starts but dies

[mcl]

I dont think that would work in my case,I did several of those cookie cuts and it had no effect on idle.It was running superbly at wot,just would not idle.Also the autotune already tried to richen the mixture for idle but it still didnt get any fuel.Im quite sure that the issue was something clogged in the idle circuit or main nozzle leaking.I also dont understand why these parts are not sold separately,like the main nozzle and the plastic autotune part,its just 3 screws and a gasket that attaches to the carb.Main nozzle is a punch and hammer thing,easily swapped out if you could get the part.

The carb is a zama,castings looks like piss poor quality compared to walbro.

 

[weimedog]

I dont think that would work in my case,I did several of those cookie cuts and it had no effect on idle.It was running superbly at wot,just would not idle.Also the autotune already tried to richen the mixture for idle but it still didnt get any fuel.Im quite sure that the issue was something clogged in the idle circuit or main nozzle leaking.I also dont understand why these parts are not sold separately,like the main nozzle and the plastic autotune part,its just 3 screws and a gasket that attaches to the carb.Main nozzle is a punch and hammer thing,easily swapped out if you could get the part.

The carb is a zama,castings looks like piss poor quality compared to walbro.

Unless your cookie cut was past that 40 or fifty second time frame it wouldn't do the update, that was the point of the video. a series of 20 second cuts doesn't get there

 

[mcl]

Unless your cookie cut was past that 40 or fifty second time frame it wouldn't do the update, that was the point of the video. a series of 20 second cuts doesn't get there

Sorry i read my posts again and realized I wrote wrong.I didnt make cookie cuts but cuts like in the video,dragging the tip of the bar across a tree.I did not notice any difference in sound at any point.But it never really had problems at wot,plug was tan/light dark after those calibration cuts.
Also as they say in the video those cuts are for adjusting the wot or H value,does nothing for idle.The idle is adjusted by letting it idle for 3 minutes.

 

[Big_Eddy]

Error 13 typically indicates an air leak. Have you vac and pressure tested the saw yet?


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[weimedog]

reseSorry i read my posts again and realized I wrote wrong.I didnt make cookie cuts but cuts like in the video,dragging the tip of the bar across a tree.I did not notice any difference in sound at any point.But it never really had problems at wot,plug was tan/light dark after those calibration cuts.
Also as they say in the video those cuts are for adjusting the wot or H value,does nothing for idle.The idle is adjusted by letting it idle for 3 minutes.

I did that video, and the saw would not idle at all before the reset. Had to keep it in the cut for a painfully long time as you can see in the video. AFTER that reset, then let it idle for the three minutes and it cleaned right up. BUT that's...in the video It's not just randomly dragging the saw through a cut, its having it close or all the way to full throttle under a load for the required time period. In that video it took over 30 seconds to clean up even enough to run well, then another 20 or so to "tune".

error code 13 just indicates a lean condition for a variety of issue....it's pretty simplistic. Based on the "autotune" needing to be at a certain mixture level for a period of time while attempting to get to a predetermined RPM. No more no less. And just because there is a 13 in of it self doesn't mean much. Its HOW many times and how many starts ago. If there is one 13 code 90 starts ago, its a non issue. If there are 100's of 13's and the last one was only a short time like 10 starts ago there is likely a problem. So understanding how to interpret the operation history is important. I've experienced several dealer/mechanic types with the proper "titles" but absolutely clueless how to interpret the information they get from CST. It's the whole set of data along with the standard physics tests a mechanic does typically that forms a conclusive diagnostic. No big sign in CST saying THIS IS THE PROBLEM!, have to be a mechanic and understand the CST is just additional data.

 

[weimedog]

BTW a brake clean test is a fast way to find an air leak in any saw including the 572. If you are still chasing your tail on that saw, grab a "green" can of brake clean and get it running , ( with the bar & chain off ) and shoot some in behind the clutch to the PTO bearing. IF it shuts off , you found your problem. A great way to take the "panic" something major is going on away...so can get back to basics like a clogged carb. I have seen one bearing failure and one carb where somehow dust got inside and made a mess. But that's it, and the bearings failure was on a modded saw. The short blocks are cheap if that happens out of warrantee anyway. Dealer cost around $120-$130, retail a bit over $200.. Bearings are like $35 bucks also not a bad option should one fail. Very supportable saw.

Same situation I would start with the reset as demonstrated, then if no change the brake clean test checking for major air leaks; then a look in the carb.I've learned that autotune will work around bad air leaks under load but can't at idle with 562's. Worse case would be put a new carb on it assuming no issues with brake clean and the reset didn't help. I did have a relatively new 562 from a customer with exactly the same as u described, I did go around the block and ended up simply replacing the carb...solved it. Frustrated as I never actually figured out what had failed IN the carb/autotune but there was a point I no longer had anymore time. Swapped in a carb it worked...sent it down the road.