Okie doke
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Husqvarna 61 mind blown
- Thread starter Everett Phillipston
- Start date
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OP I think you need to vac test that saw. Can you do that? Can you verify the choke is closing 100 percent?
The point is arguable because THE SAW DOES NOT RUN. It should, but it dont. Lone Wolf was trying to help you. No reason to argue. Put the new coil on and see if that does it but I've also seen it happen to saws that have a busted seal. No amount of pulling would get it to start until it was replaced. With LW, p&v test it. If your not open minded, saw work is not for you.
Everett Phillipston
ArboristSite Operative
i love when people read tone into written word that isn't there, and then take offense that wasn't intended. the saw does not run; correct, but all the basic elements are there to suggest it should run, except strong spark in a saw that is notorious for faulty coils. i don't think i'm too far off with my suspected diagnosis, especially considering the compression IS FINE as i suspected and stated when everyone wanted to get up in arms and wave their fool arms around about 130lbs not being good. compression numbers are not always the be all end all to a saw running....and you can argue it all you want, but 130 lbs IS enough for a saw to run and suggests that the problem is elsewhere. if you read back to the beginning of this post, the saw was running fine and then started acting up occasionally, until it just wouldn't start and run. my dad had a local shop take a look at it a few months back before i got ahold of it and said it did not have a seal issue. if you scroll up, you'll see that i already stated it past a leak down test.
maybe a seal is bad. but i doubt it considering.
as is with most things in life, the simplest solution is usually the right one. and when you're talking about a saw with known coil issues, i tend to think it's the problem.
as far as being open minded and saw work being right for me? lol. you all have a pleasant evening and i'll be sure to let you know the outcome when i locate the correct coil.
You do that, and I hope your right. And I do think that 130# is enough comoression to fire a saw. But if you are leaning in one direction thats fine, but dont discount anither just because the saws are "known" for it. Saws themselves are "known" for alot of issues. And, if somebody with alot of saw building time mentions somethung to me, I dont discount it right off the bat. I take it into the conversation. Something would have to get you confused for you to posy, no? Everybodys just trying to help out, we are not there to see what you have and havent done. 
Fingers to fat for the damm keyboard...
Everett Phillipston
ArboristSite Operative
I gotcha and I understood what you meant. And I DO appreciate all of you and your concern
Oldsawnut
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm with you it's probably the coil... And a gas engine needs spark, compression, fuel/air, and timing. Since the flywheel is fine the timing is controlled by the coil anyway. Only other thing would be a bad plug especially if its the resistor type. Sometimes if you squish the gap down to 15 thou or so it will spark under compression even if its a weak coil. Either way I think you are spot on and I have seen saws run with really low compression before just gutless as hell.
Well I for one would pressure test first before I bought another coil. Unless he has an extra.
Oldsawnut
Addicted to ArboristSite
Always a good idea on a 30yo saw for sure. Even if it ran well it would be a good idea. Or just change out the seals, impulse, intake, fuel line or anything else rubber. Although in his first post he said he had fuel. Even if it was developing a leak it should still start/sputter something. So I don't think vac/pres test is going to fix his specific problem.
Well it dont cost nothing to do so.
stilh036prohog
ArboristSite Guru
How cold is it there? Bring inside for a while. Try it warm up.
Oldsawnut
Addicted to ArboristSite
True but if was in the family since new and you didn't plan to ever get rid of it you know it would still need it sooner or later even if it passed the test. If not then every little thing that came up you would want to pres/vac it. Way easier in my book to just spend the 50-75 to know its good for the next 30 providing you can still buy real fuel in the future
I just got a 61 in a junk pile. Seemed complete so started my diagnosis. Pulled over fine with good compression. Squirted a little mix into it and no go. Pulled plug to find no spark. Flipped the switch to the off position and got one spark (one revolution of the flywheel). WTF? turned it on and no spark. Turned to off position and again one spark. These 61s are funny. I disconnected the switch wire and cleaned out all the junk around the coils (lots of oily sawdust) with compressed air (two on this model) and tried again. Fired right up. Put in new switch and have a good running 61.
Everett Phillipston
ArboristSite Operative
As stated a couple times, the saw has been pressure/vac tested. I have also tried 3 different new plugs.
Is the choke closing 100 percent?
Try closing the gap on the plug a lot to compensate for a weak ign and see if it pops. Also what about the choke ?
Oldsawnut
Addicted to ArboristSite
banditt007
ArboristSite Operative
Good call on closing the gap on the spark plug. Another thing to look for is the flywheel magnet to coil distance should be about .012" IIRC, and how clean the steel is on the coil.
As a test, try a variable gap spark plug strength tester to test for coil strength on your problem saw and a known good saw or other small 2 stroke engine.
Just thinking out loud here but what about opening the gap of the spark plug larger, and connect the now larger gapped plug, to a plug wire on another saw or string trimmer type engine, grounding it and seeing if it gets spark. Kind of like a stress test for coil strength. For example, take the plug, open the gap to .050" connect that plug to another saws spark plug wire, turn it over and see if you have spark. Hopefully yes. Now try it in the problem saw, if nothing there you go prob a weak coil. You can keep slowly opening it larger to test. Also is the spark a nice blue you can see in day light, or is it a yellow/orange color?
Either way sounds like the new coil is on the way so just pop that in and go from there!
As a test, try a variable gap spark plug strength tester to test for coil strength on your problem saw and a known good saw or other small 2 stroke engine.
Just thinking out loud here but what about opening the gap of the spark plug larger, and connect the now larger gapped plug, to a plug wire on another saw or string trimmer type engine, grounding it and seeing if it gets spark. Kind of like a stress test for coil strength. For example, take the plug, open the gap to .050" connect that plug to another saws spark plug wire, turn it over and see if you have spark. Hopefully yes. Now try it in the problem saw, if nothing there you go prob a weak coil. You can keep slowly opening it larger to test. Also is the spark a nice blue you can see in day light, or is it a yellow/orange color?
Either way sounds like the new coil is on the way so just pop that in and go from there!
Excellent.
