I was just wondering, not trying to get rich selling saws. I've had white top 61s before and just sold them for regular saw prices and no, it's not showroom, just not beat up. I probably won't keep it for long once it's ready to go...Collectable? Maybe if it was showroom condition...... but it aint like the good old 61 was a low sales saw!
The later black top 300 year anniversary model might have a slight edge on a $30 white top with a Chinese coil, but hold on to it for long enough and you never know- might double in value from what you paid for it!
Actually, thinking about it more, the 3120 I had my hands on in 1988 was a pre-production test sample so it probably doesn't count anyway.
Is your 266 also made in Slovenia?
On the ebay ad for the coil it said "OEM" but I doubt it..Collectable? Maybe if it was showroom condition...... but it aint like the good old 61 was a low sales saw!
The later black top 300 year anniversary model might have a slight edge on a $30 white top with a Chinese coil, but hold on to it for long enough and you never know- might double in value from what you paid for it!
No surprise about retaining with the 2-piece ignition. Apart from the c & p and plastic fuel tank, the 66 was part-number identical to the 266.
Seems the costs of used non running, used running, used still new looking, hardly used new looking, the prices vary bigtime. Some of the used. Non running prices kill me, they seem to be where the used saw prices were.
I think I mentioned that I doubt if it's an OEM also.
Also, just because the vendor has a US address doesn't mean it's a US seller. I found that out on my last purchase, seems they've set up shop over here. The stuff comes from China, is shipped to a Chines person who lives in the US.
The kill switch has killed me on several occasions, or a bad/broken wire leading to the switch that won't allow it to be shut off. You would be surprised at how many saws are being shut off by the choke lever.
I'd still like to fix it, I doubt if some people know you can shut it off with the choke. I checked the switch with an ohmmeter and it tested good. That leaves the wire to the new coil or the ground side of the switch which I suspect is the problem. I'm thinking of running a wire from the ground side of the switch and bolting it to a good ground, it just has a metal loop touching some bare metal right now. I was thinking about drilling a hole in the middle of the loop and putting a screw in it to ground the loop to the saw body.
If the switch has a plastic body and a metal tab with a hole in it (see picture) it relies on a screw for grounding.
Yep, I just got done drilling the hole and putting a screw in it. Now the plastic switch works! I think now the saw is complete and it's amazing how
