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Anybody know anything about the 592, other than what's on Husky's website?
Husqvarna Sticky!
- Thread starter bulletpruf
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Pick up a 44 a little while ago, runs well.
hooray 288
Huskybill
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I picked up a few 44’s I hope some will run.
T 1 Pete!
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have one with a big bore kit on it, kind of missed placed it somewhere, my saws are stacked up like cord wood.
only got 3 huskys here
394, case up build by me, stock -gasket.
288, same
268, ported 272 top on it, by zcs
268 is my only modded saw, other than couple mm'd creamsicles
got more pioneers n poulans than the "big" brands
had a minty 2101
655bp pushed that aside
394, case up build by me, stock -gasket.
288, same
268, ported 272 top on it, by zcs
268 is my only modded saw, other than couple mm'd creamsicles
got more pioneers n poulans than the "big" brands
had a minty 2101
655bp pushed that aside
181se/288 series
Are the choices 70's, xp, xp/xt, and auto tune?
Battery.
Fuel injection is likely not too far off.
Hi guys,I've only got 2 small Husky saws myself,an old 41 that runs great & a 235 that I got in 2013 or 2014 for $100.It was pretty much brand new,only used to cut up one tree before I owned it.
I've got a nice lady coming by on Sat.to have me take a look at her 440 for her.She got the saw stuck in a pinch & kept trying to cut with it till it was smoking.Not a good thing I know.I told her she most likely fried the clutch.I just want to know what's involved with taking the clutch off.Is it LH thread?I see where I can pick up an OEM clutch for it on eBay for around $15.
I've got a nice lady coming by on Sat.to have me take a look at her 440 for her.She got the saw stuck in a pinch & kept trying to cut with it till it was smoking.Not a good thing I know.I told her she most likely fried the clutch.I just want to know what's involved with taking the clutch off.Is it LH thread?I see where I can pick up an OEM clutch for it on eBay for around $15.
Yes, it's LH thread.
You will need to lock the cylinder, best way is with some starter rope doubled over & thread into the cylinder via the spark plug hole (be careful it doesn't feed into a port). Remove the starter cover to avoid damaging the starter when you do the clutch back up.
Ideally you use an impact driver & a special tool to take the clutch off, but it can be done with various standard hand tools & a bit of ingenuity.
When done assemble the saw completely & start it with the brake on, release the brake, give the saw a brief rev & jam the brake on. This will ensure the clutch is sufficiently tight
I got the Husky 440 running again.I had to put a whole new recoil rope in,she threw the origional handle out,thought it was no good,Lol.The sprocket tip on the end of the new bar was partially seized up from sitting out in the rain for the last 6 + weeks.I got that freed up aghain & had to step the idle up on the saw a tad.
2 questions - 1) In order to change the lo or hi setting on the carb do I need special screwdrivers?2) Is there any adjustment on the oiler?It seems to be oiling awfully light.I'm using 10W30.
2 questions - 1) In order to change the lo or hi setting on the carb do I need special screwdrivers?2) Is there any adjustment on the oiler?It seems to be oiling awfully light.I'm using 10W30.
Please don't use motor oil as bar oil, it's not thick enough to protect your bar and chain.
Regular bar oil is too thick,especially in winter for the cheapo plastic gears.When it gets down below 32* those gears will strip right away,then you've got more problems.I use winter grade bar oil in the summer & in the winter I cut the oil with kerosene.Yrs.ago before bar oil was around folks used 30W for bar oil.I know I did.Besides,I'm out of bar oil right now.I don't plan on going out cutting till late Oct.at the earliest.There's a long time saw repairman who's been in the business for well over 40 yrs.& he told me yrs.ago not to use bar oil,it's NFG (in his words).
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Not enough pics in this thread, so here are a few of a 242 I just finished going through.
I was wondering if the old 61 has a different bar than the newer 61,266,272 etc….
I have a 61 that pukes oil like crazy with no bar. Put a D009 on it and it doesn’t seem to make it out to the bar.
I cleaned the bar adjusted the output but no difference. I tried a couple of different bars with the same mount but no change. Possibly there is actually nothing wrong but I feel like you should see a good flick of oil come off the tip of the bar if it was well. Seems pretty dry to me though.
Is it possible that the oiler could be getting worn? Possibly the screen is dirty in the tank as well……
Any tips are appropriate! I don’t run too many saws with auto oiler so they always weird me out a bit!
I have a 61 that pukes oil like crazy with no bar. Put a D009 on it and it doesn’t seem to make it out to the bar.
I cleaned the bar adjusted the output but no difference. I tried a couple of different bars with the same mount but no change. Possibly there is actually nothing wrong but I feel like you should see a good flick of oil come off the tip of the bar if it was well. Seems pretty dry to me though.
Is it possible that the oiler could be getting worn? Possibly the screen is dirty in the tank as well……
Any tips are appropriate! I don’t run too many saws with auto oiler so they always weird me out a bit!
They do run a D009 bar and they should oil well.
Lay the inner bar plate over the bar you are using and make sure the oil holes line up.
Lay the inner bar plate over the bar you are using and make sure the oil holes line up.
