I can square grind with my round grinder

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Would a shim allow me to do 0.043? Or one jig to accept a variety of gauges?

Thanks

Philbert
There is a fairly loose tolerance for what will actually work. It just can't be too tight or it becomes a pain going from tooth to tooth. I think the .043 would work just fine with a .050 jig as they are about .007 over. I think with manufacturing they may vary by a few thousandths. The upper parts are solid. I thought about making multiple plates just for manufacturing but the original prototypes were machined from solid blocks of steel. Then we went to a two part setup. A three part would work as well and just use shims but I thought they might just look too cheesy. Maybe not though. I wasn't planning on sparing any expense in the building process so I stuck with a solid holder. Good idea though. It may migrate to that in the future if I can find a good way to make it.
 
I picked up a couple diamond wheel dressers on eBay and never looked back. I absolutely hated the brick dressers for whatever reason.
Yeah I can't believe I had been using anything but diamond for so long. Even my regular grinder wheels started to get an odd shape like almost oblong to where they vibrate. Mine was so messed up at one point it would grab something small you're working on it send it flying if you catch the angle wrong. Having a smooth surface to grind with makes a world of difference. I redid the tile in my bathroom years back and bought one of those diamond files for fine tuning tile. That's how I discovered the diamond. They really do work great.
 
Yeah I can't believe I had been using anything but diamond for so long. Even my regular grinder wheels started to get an odd shape like almost oblong to where they vibrate. Mine was so messed up at one point it would grab something small you're working on it sends it flying if you catch the angle wrong. Having a smooth surface to grind with makes a world of difference.
Especially if you’re trying to leave a sharp point on your wheel
 
Slick and addresses that nasty problem of getting into the tie straps common with the horizontal mounted type units like Simington. Additionally wheel wear dia. wise is less of a problem- for the avg. chain length most do not run into this but with 8 ft long loops of 404 I do. ( something like 275 drive links. )
Getting into the .058 should not be more than a slightly thicker slotting cutter .04 per side, a little more difficult if using a cutoff wheels to slot ( depending on material
Those, ahem, lovely .325 are in .058 in a bunch of cases. I do not see a lot of .043 just a smattering. Got to use a magnifing glass just see those little buggers.
At any given time I have 20 to 75 chains or more to be sharpened/ month not counting my own 50% sq.
Drop me a line when you have some for sale .050 .063 .058 [email protected] ( ATT has my other one all jacked up) Chris
 
You taking pre orders? Been watching this very eagerly.
Hi Sean right on! I'm getting some ready to roll. I could definitely try to do a pre-order for Arboristsite guys only for now and maybe get you on the first list. I don't know what the Arboristsite rules are on this. Maybe let me check them out and go from there. Are you running primarily 3/8 chain? What size drive links? I'll also have three different angles to choose from as far as top plate sharpness. 40 45 and 50.
 
You can put me on the list Please . 3/8 .050 not sure on the top plate sharpness - Maybe some opinions from others needed ? Thank You Barry
 
Howdy,
I applaud advancing the use of square ground chain. We cut the tips off of hardnose bars in different gauges for the guides so we would have infinite angle adjustment. For length adjustment we just mounted a set of Silvey chain fingers on the tips. Like was mentioned, the smaller the diameter of wheel the less the tie strap is exposed to damage. The crux of the biscuit is shimming the tip in the vise to center it with the grinders symmetry.
Regards
G
 
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