I converted the splitter to electric and added a 4 way wedge

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isaaccarlson

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The gas motor on my splitter crapped out this year. It started smoking like a weber grill and I was already thinking of converting to electric, the smoke just helped finalize the decision.
It stunk up the whole neighborhood when I took it in to town to help a friend split his firewood. It looked like a smoker going, but it didn't smell like one. I had rebuilt that old motor and pump once or twice already, so I just pulled them both off.

I had a pump that I bought from a guy last year. It needed a little work, but I got it going and measured the insides to get gpm #'s. I also scrounged up a 240v single phase 3600 rpm motor from a friend of a friend. I thought about getting a 5hp and a new speeco pump, but the cost was very prohibitive. I have about $100 into the finished swap. It's quieter than the noisy gas motor, there is no more vibration, and there are no stinky fumes or sore throats after splitting. I don't have to try to start a cold motor, check/change oil, or worry about gas. It's awesome.
The only real downside is the inability to idle the motor to warm the oil when the temps are below about 20*, so it makes some noise for a minute or two when it's really cold.

The cycle time is a bit faster than it was with the gas motor because the pump is a little bigger, but it has a smaller high pressure side so I can get full pressure with the electric motor. I have it set to shift at about 700-800 psi and the relief is at 3400, but it almost never goes over 2400, so I might turn it down to 3000. It blows right through 99% of the rounds with the 4 way and is easily 3x faster than the single wedge.

The 4 way wedge slips over the single wedge so I can remove it for the tougher pieces. The pump whines because it is running at 3600 rpm, you just never hear it over the gas motor. I would have loved to use a 22gpm pump with a 1725 rpm motor so it would be quieter, but the cost was prohibitive and I already had these parts.

This video taken with the shift pressure set very low (around 300 psi), and the one pice had a knot that got sheared. I will get some good video of it with the new shift setting.
 

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Cool! That first piece looked like elm and it handled it well. Second looked like silver and it ripped right through it!
 
Cool! That first piece looked like elm and it handled it well. Second looked like silver and it ripped right through it!
Yep. Elm and silver maple. It doesn't kick down so soon now that the pressure is adjusted properly. It builds about 5 tons on the first stage and 21 on the second stage.
 
I also converted from gas to electric using a 240V, single phase 3600 RPM motor, was curious of the ampere draw so checked it while splitting some gnarly stringy elm, motor nameplate shows 21 full load amps, but even with the elm, I never got readings over 9 or 10 amps. I fabricated a circular adapter plate and drilled holes to match the electric motor's mounting holes and welded that to the existing pump's mounting bracket so I could easily change back to the gas engine; also made a mounting base for the gas engine and one for the electric motor that have the same bolt pattern for mounting to the splitter, so swapping between gas or electric only takes about 5 minutes. While I do all of my splitting by the work shop or sugar shack (both have 240V power), there are times where someone wants to borrow the splitter and doesn't have 240 available nearby, so it's nice to be able to swap out.
 
The only real downside is the inability to idle the motor to warm the oil when the temps are below about 20*, so it makes some noise for a minute or two when it's really cold.
Nice set-up!
Could you not just hold the valve one way or the other for a bit causing bypass, to warm the oil?
 
But, If you run/force it through the relief it’s heat up faster!

It would but when the oil is real cold you don't want to be popping off relief valves. It's hard on the pump and hyd system.

I could be mistaken but I don't believe it is good for the log splitter type hydraulic valves to be operated at partial settings. Probably even worse when real cold.
 
In the video the motor is running the pump when the handles in neutral ... that’s dumping oil back to tank just like a gas motor would be doing at idle. I would think this unit heats up identically to a gas splitter.

I thought maybe to reduce power usage the elec. motor shut off if there was no command for flow?
 
I do not like taking any cold hydraulic system to relief pressure. Seals and hoses are brittle when cold and you can destroy them with high pressure or shock loads.

The cost to run it Is next to nothing. Maybe 25 cents an hour at most.
 
In the video the motor is running the pump when the handles in neutral ... that’s dumping oil back to tank just like a gas motor would be doing at idle. I would think this unit heats up identically to a gas splitter.

I thought maybe to reduce power usage the elec. motor shut off if there was no command for flow?
What I was trying to say is that I like to reduce the pump rpm to warm a cold hydraulic system. Once warm I will run it at full rpm. The electric motor runs full rpm all the time.

Starting a motor heats it up. It would be starting every few seconds and would use more electricity and make more heat. It's better to let it run because an electric motor draws amps in proportion to the load. In neutral it draws maybe a couple of amps.
 
I do not like taking any cold hydraulic system to relief pressure. Seals and hoses are brittle when cold and you can destroy them with high pressure or shock loads.

The cost to run it Is next to nothing. Maybe 25 cents an hour at most.
I tried to use a kWh calculator just to get an idea of what something like this would cost to run and I came up with like .30 a hour so I was close...that’s damn cheap.
 
What I was trying to say is that I like to reduce the pump rpm to warm a cold hydraulic system. Once warm I will run it at full rpm. The electric motor runs full rpm all the time.

Starting a motor heats it up. It would be starting every few seconds and would use more electricity and make more heat. It's better to let it run because an electric motor draws amps in proportion to the load. In neutral it draws maybe a couple of amps.
That makes sense.
 
I tried to use a kWh calculator just to get an idea of what something like this would cost to run and I came up with like .30 a hour so I was close...that’s damn cheap.
It is cheap. I was going through gallons of gas a day. Now I can split all day, with the 4 way, for about a dollar. I get 4x as much done for about 1/10 of the cost. I figure 4x is about right after seeing how fast the wood piles up now. The 4 way gives about 3x and the splitter has a bit faster cycle time, so it adds up to about 4x.
 
My uncle was a brick mason. For years he used a 220v brick cutting saw on the job. He had a long extension cord and would often get power by going through the clothes dryer vent and then plugging into the cloths dryer 220v receptacle. Just a thought.
 
Showing my complete lack of understanding...... could the motor run on 120v? Is there a way to disconnect one of the leads in the plug easily and get 120v? Would that change the speed of the motor? Or am I getting DC stuff jumbled in my thoughts that works different? Then it would spin 1/2 speed for a bit to warm up ‘at idle’? A dumb idea nonetheless in practicality.
Curious, what oil do you run? 32 weight or ATF seems to be fine up here in the cold with some warm up obviously.
 

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