I just joined the forum, and bought a used chainsaw :) Lol, quick questions

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Thank you!! I have been watching Bucking Billy Ray and Guilty of Treeson on Youtube, learning to sharpen chains (I have round for cutters, and flat for rakers) I have to rewatch Guilty of Treeson where he explains all the different kinds of chains and parts of the chain.

I will search for the Carb Kit and get one. So far when doing the rakers, I only do 6 swipes with a flat file. Probably out of fear that I will take too much off and make the chain ultra grabby :)
I've been following the rule of every 2 tanks of gas, sharpen chains!!
6 swipes on each chain tooth is not that much if the chain is really dull...
I do 2-3 swipes at the correct angle more often than just leave it until its clearly dull and ain't cutting well at all...
And it says so in the manual: more often chain sharppening is better for chain longevity ,fuel consumption and the operator! The chainsaw must cut well without putting much pressure on the bar. If you have to do the work instead of the chainsaw then something is wrong!
I often check how high is that depth marker tooth with these tools. And it was too high first time I filled the chain. Was wondering why it cuts that hard/long. After a quick file and check of the chain plus adjusting the depth of cutting with the tools I got with the chainsaw, it's a different chainsaw 😁 cuts so good I scared the neighbours. Goes through logs like they're made of cheese ,and I had a few of hard wood type! Piece of cake for the Makita and the Oregon chain! Love it so far!
P.s. the flat file is of "not so good" quality as you can see on both sides where I filled those depth "tooths"... The Oregon chain is tougher/harder then the file... Have to buy a better one ,I think...
P.s. the chain is a .325 type! Forgot to mention that!
IMG_20221222_042025388.jpgIMG_20221222_041941279.jpgIMG_20221222_041911705.jpg
 
Good advice, IF every stroke was actuyyally doing any work. Becasue thats good advice. I can add if I may, be patient it aint a race, and it aint ten million cutters to do. So it often, and do less, just make each stroke count. Its all feel, in my opinion.
If you're in woods working for a company it is "a race" because you're paid for how many logs you fell that day! Or at least this is how it works here in Romania! 😁
Soo, if the chain just got "dull" you better fix it/sharp it quick plus adjust the depth ones ,because you're losing time+ca$h
Of course ,if you're at home chopping up your wood its no hurry! You're on your time!
 
I cut with it yesterday (bucked a 10 foot long 20 inch thick trunk)

It's a beast, and I let the saw do the work (instead dogging in, and pushing it through the cut) Lol, Thank you arborist forum, as that's what I was doing before I started lurking here. :)

I'm going to the chainsaw store to get a raker gauge today! Then going to attempt to sharpen 9 chainsaws lol sounds like fun plans. If I'm feeling wild and crazy, I really should remove the covers and clean them all up nice. I have a customer that wants two trees cut and is trading me some Husqvarna 17 foot pole saw+ cash (I haven't seen it yet, he said it's been used less than 10 times) CAD is real lol
 
Good luck with those chains. Don't be bummed if one becomes the sacrificial chain. Improvements in skill happen with each and every stroke of the file. Get a 7/32 and a 13/64 file at least. I'd get a box (12 count) of each as they are the #1 tool in keeping your saw working properly.
 
I cut with it yesterday (bucked a 10 foot long 20 inch thick trunk)

It's a beast, and I let the saw do the work (instead dogging in, and pushing it through the cut) Lol, Thank you arborist forum, as that's what I was doing before I started lurking here. :)

I'm going to the chainsaw store to get a raker gauge today! Then going to attempt to sharpen 9 chainsaws lol sounds like fun plans. If I'm feeling wild and crazy, I really should remove the covers and clean them all up nice. I have a customer that wants two trees cut and is trading me some Husqvarna 17 foot pole saw+ cash (I haven't seen it yet, he said it's been used less than 10 times) CAD is real lol
Welcome aboard! I agree with the others on the PPE, especially the chaps. One brief laps of judgment/thinking near the end of a long and tiring day is all it takes to really appreciate a set of chaps.

On sharpening your chain, go slow and take your time. Take each stroke of the file on purpose, not haphazardly. Its like shooting a gun. Slow is smooth, and smooth is fast. Doing things slowly and purposefully now will get you up the learning curve quickly.

Also, rather than nearly ruining 9 chains, sharpen one or two of them, then go cut for a bit and do it again. Continue to screw those first 2 chains up until you get them right, then move to the next 2.

You may also want to sharpen after EVERY tank of fuel in order to get more practice in. Each tooth will only need 1 or 2 strokes to be cat's paw sharp again so it will go quickly and keep the saw performing it's best.

I may be an oddball here, but I don't touch my rakers very often. I might address them after the first half dozen or so sharpenings, and then not touch them again until I'm about half way through the life of the chain. I've also never had to take 6 strokes on a raker, and some of mine I intentionally run at 0.040".
 
I cut with it yesterday (bucked a 10 foot long 20 inch thick trunk)

It's a beast, and I let the saw do the work (instead dogging in, and pushing it through the cut) Lol, Thank you arborist forum, as that's what I was doing before I started lurking here. :)

I'm going to the chainsaw store to get a raker gauge today! Then going to attempt to sharpen 9 chainsaws lol sounds like fun plans. If I'm feeling wild and crazy, I really should remove the covers and clean them all up nice. I have a customer that wants two trees cut and is trading me some Husqvarna 17 foot pole saw+ cash (I haven't seen it yet, he said it's been used less than 10 times) CAD is real lol
9 chains?! That might take a long time to sharpen 😁😂
But it's worth it. Saves you time when you will need to use any of those chainsaws!
 
Good luck with those chains. Don't be bummed if one becomes the sacrificial chain. Improvements in skill happen with each and every stroke of the file. Get a 7/32 and a 13/64 file at least. I'd get a box (12 count) of each as they are the #1 tool in keeping your saw working properly.
I never sharpen a .325 chain until getting this makita 6100. And to be honest I made it cut better after the first time I tried my sharpening skills on it! The depth gauge scared me,those teeth were too up from factory /bag on that .325 chain! After I was finnished it was cutting amazingly well! But I did studied the owner's manual for some time! Now I keep the throttle about half way ,because if I get it to almost full throttle I'll cut the log too fast 😂🙄
I should have be a logger not truck driver! It's more fun and you're always in nature ,fresh air ,just got to watch out for falling trees once in a while 😁
 
pretty sure he was talkin rakers n flat file, not cutters
I'll read more carefully! English is my second language and to make things worse I read on this forum around 4:20-5:00 AM in the morning out of curiosity! Don't have time in "normal hours"/day! Maybe at noon or in the evening for 10 minutes...

Chain_Filing_Angles.giffile-position-a-440x226.pngdescărcare.png
 
I never sharpen a .325 chain until getting this makita 6100. And to be honest I made it cut better after the first time I tried my sharpening skills on it! The depth gauge scared me,those teeth were too up from factory /bag on that .325 chain! After I was finnished it was cutting amazingly well! But I did studied the owner's manual for some time! Now I keep the throttle about half way ,because if I get it to almost full throttle I'll cut the log too fast 😂🙄
I should have be a logger not truck driver! It's more fun and you're always in nature ,fresh air ,just got to watch out for falling trees once in a while 😁
Saws are made to run wide open in the cut, not halfway. WOT gives better lube (more fuel) and better cooling (more air from the fan). As already said, get some chaps and steel toed boots. Sounds like you got a great deal on the saw. 660 is a lot of saw, don't get careless with it. It can be a great tool or your worst nightmare.
 
Saws are made to run wide open, not halfway. WOT gives better lube (more fuel) and better cooling (more air from the fan). As already said, get some chaps and steel toed boots. Sounds like you got a great deal on the saw. 660 is a lot of saw, don't get careless with it. It can be a great tool or your worst nightmare.
DEAL 😁 next time I cut wood I'll rev the **** out of that makita 😎 either cuts like a crazy demon or it's time for a 395xp 😁
 
DEAL 😁 next time I cut wood I'll rev the **** out of that makita 😎 either cuts like a crazy demon or it's time for a 395xp 😁

Keep it in the cut and you'll have no problems. Those carbs are real simple, so it isn't hard to imagine Idle or Full Throttle is what it was design to do.

The only time I run in between is when I am trying to avoid rocking the chain. Real slow, with 1/4 or 1/8 inch of wood left before I hit bark. Needs to feel the saw without all the crazy deafening sound, to not burst thru and do damage to Mother Earth's Terra Firma.
 
Lol, I was actually thinking of putting the head of the 660 and 391 in the dishwasher to make em purdy :)
I am only engaged, so it's still good until she lives here permanently!!

I'm guessing the dishwasher would ruin them somehow, so I have just been reading the forum on de-gunking a chainsaw (I have 9 currently, and they've all gotten a good workout this year)
 

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