I may regret this. But let's hear it. 3/8 chain round filed

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Charlie1124

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Alright let's hear it.. Stihl 3/8 pitch chain. Free hand filed using 7/32 round. 2nd or 3td sharpening.Light strokes using echo branded files..
 

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First two pictures are too blurry. Check if there's a macro setting on your device. Also, blowing the metal filings off your cutter will make it easier to see what's going on.

So, like I said, a little tough to read. In the third picture it looks to me like your file is too low. Looks like it cleaned out the gullet really well but never contacted the cutting edge.
 
Thanks. I wandered that myself after I looked at the pictures.i try to keep 15-20 percent of file above. But it's tricky lol
 
Iv been reading about a goofy file? Being used on round ground chains. And speeding up the cut times.. any thoughts on that? Would I use goofy file same as round? 35 degree angle. Etc etc?
 
Opinions on hitting the top plate with 1/4 round file.. now that I got a good gullet? Just to razor edge the top cutter angle? Yes. Iv been reading about race chains.. I'm not looking to race.. but do like the performance aspect of it..
 
It'll work, but you'll get better hook with 7/32. You can't hold the file down to the straps and still hit the top plate. With 20% of the file above the cutter, you'll still have .050" or so of gullet under the file that should be removed every 3rd or 4th sharpening

These aren't mine, but a pretty good reference

IMG_1358.jpg IMG_2152.jpg
 
Opinions on hitting the top plate with 1/4 round file.. now that I got a good gullet? Just to razor edge the top cutter angle? Yes. Iv been reading about race chains.. I'm not looking to race.. but do like the performance aspect of it..


For now stick to one file size, and nothing square or goofy. After five years you can advance from there. :)
 
You can lift slightly on the 7/32 file to cut higher on the cutter and include the top plate. Make sure the chain is tight and take your time. It will take some practice. The lower gullet looks fine, in fact I hit the lower area first to make sure the file doesn't bind as you file the top.

Huskihl, that's a good looking file job!
 
Using a 3 in 1 takes the guess work out and does just as good of a job. I’ve been happy with mine and have three now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That chain won't cut any different to before you took a file too it. TIP: keep an old toothbrush handy to clean off the filings when taking pics. Your file is way too low to the point you are not really sharpening anything other than the lower inner side plate. Raise the file & concentrate on cutting the inner top plate & leading edge. You can go back and fine tune gullets when the cutter is sharp. Forget a goofy file at this stage, the basics must be mastered first. Your main problem is file position/height. A larger file is the wrong answer, it will probably work but is not the correct way to fix your issue. If light reflects from the top plate edge, its NOT sharp. Practice, ask questions, clean cutters with T/brush before taking pics & we'll all be here to help get your chains cutting well. Your intuition to get a 2nd opinion was spot on. Your eyes are the best tool for filing.
 
It'll work, but you'll get better hook with 7/32. You can't hold the file down to the straps and still hit the top plate. With 20% of the file above the cutter, you'll still have .050" or so of gullet under the file that should be removed every 3rd or 4th sharpening

These aren't mine, but a pretty good reference

View attachment 691303 View attachment 691305

After the gullet is hogged out for chip clearance I then use the file n guide to put a different angle on the top edge. 3/8” chain 7/32” file on both. 404” chain 1/4” file for the gullet, 7/32” file for the top edge.
 
Old man Walker open my eyes a while ago about the gullet I was keeping it in check constantly every 3 to 4 fili gs then I got a nice grinder and Walker introduced me to keeping the gullet he was right it keeps the chain straight and did not make any difference but what do I know I just listen to someone that has built some of the world's best and ground made some of the best chain in the buiz

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
Just last week I was cutting some Oak. It was very dry and a little dirty. I like using a 30'' bar with 404 semi chisel. I pretty much do not use chisel bit because they are not a good fit for what I do. After an hour of cutting my 460 Xtra was doing a better job with a 24'' bar. I double checked the 404 chain and it looked picture perfect, but needed a lot of pressure to get through a log. So finally put it in the vise to see what it needed. I discovered on the last file job I must have been goofing off some because the shape was perfect , but since I did not lift the file up much the leading edge was some what blunt. So I went over it lifting up a little on all the cutters. The leading edge of the cutters was showing much better. Then it would bog down some time because it was biting a little too aggressive. It took almost no pressure to get through the logs.

For those that need a guide to learn so be it because it will take some practice to achieve the best results. Thanks
 
With 404” chain I hog out the gullet with a 7/32” or 1/4” file depending how much tooth is left. Then I do the top of the tooth with the file n guide with 7/32” file. Depending on how the gullet looks I may go under the tooth’s cutting edge and do the gullet more. Then I set the rakers. Everytime I gas up I make one pass with the file n guide. Just a light pass to keep the cutters razor sharp.

I learn how to do this from trial and error looking for the best sharpening for speed cutting at the fair. I like to go heavy on the rakers like .030 to .040 on the 2100. The 2100 will drag a dull chain through the wood. Power to spare, more power than the energizer bunny.

I’m a perfectionist when it comes to chain sharpening time is money.
 
I quit using 404 chain back in the 80's. After all it wasn't me falling those 5' + Fir, Cedar or Spruce logs here on the coast of Oregon and needing the advantages of the heaver tooth and link configuration, so for the most part the remaining Oberg Sweden, flat and oval files were left to rest in the drawer along with the 44 '' and somewhat shorter bars.
The weight and speed of the 3/8'' pitch chain running on a 32'' bar is fantastic and to hit it a lick or seven or eight on each tooth after a tank of gas [depending on what I hit] is a pleasure using just the round 7/32'' file on the teeth with an adjustment to the rakers using the proper tool about 1/2 way through the tooth wear, sometimes a bit sooner and with a flat file.
Lifting up on the file is a technique required wile making the advance forward thrust with the round file into the cutter at the top of each tooth. Holding the proper angle at the same time is what will make you a pro, over time.
It can only get better and will if you keep at it! By the time you do it six or more times you will improve then continue to learn little things to make it better and better.
Good Filing.
 
It'll work, but you'll get better hook with 7/32. You can't hold the file down to the straps and still hit the top plate. With 20% of the file above the cutter, you'll still have .050" or so of gullet under the file that should be removed every 3rd or 4th sharpening

These aren't mine, but a pretty good reference

View attachment 691303 View attachment 691305

Your close to what I do. I take the next smaller file size to under cut the top edge of the cutter for more chip clearance in the gullet. Again below the cutting edge.
 
Your close to what I do. I take the next smaller file size to under cut the top edge of the cutter for more chip clearance in the gullet. Again below the cutting edge.
I have done that same thing, several times. My old hot 181 will throw strings 3+ inches long, cross cutting [soft wood] Dug fir Logs 3' + - into firewood.
Only trouble I ever had was the saw seemed to get dull a bit faster, but you never know once a log is on the ground what is in that bark.
 
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