Is this too much to ask a saw shop?

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Between ethanol and Stihl dealers this thread is turning truther faster than the OP could let us help him fix a saw or find a dealer/shop by telling us where he's located!
 
Parts are no longer available for the robin. So useless to anyone besides a collecter. @166 has been looking for one for years!

Just get any modern 40-50cc full suspension brushcutter, you will be much better off.

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Whatever you prefer. I prefer a modern 40-50cc engine with equal or higher power output, better antivib, lass fuel consumption, etc. I pay for my equipment and find it senseless waisting my money...

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I am quite uncertain, but are fellows here really recomending trimmers for bruschcutting work? Sorry guys but they wouldn't last a week in serious bruschcutting scenarios! Bruschcutter = ~40cc or larger, full antivib, high diametre shaft with heavy duty gear head. The micky mouse toys you can leave at home for the casual user.

@newforest ,

I see a few problems existing.

First, the ethanol problem is totally blown out of reality. Yes it can cause problems, especially after changeover of non ethanol fuel to ethanol fuel, when the material is > a decade old, when leaving the fuel mix in your equiment over half a year and when storing your fuel in non certified fuel containers or exposed to high temperature changes (f.e. leaving the fuel containers rolling around in the sun...).

Second, ALL rubber components can be expected to deteriorate after at least a decade if not even sooner, irrespective of fuel quality.

Third, emptying the fuel tank on your equipement leaves fuel in the system. What is recomended is to empty the fuel tank and let your engine IDLE dry. That way the fuel system should be empty as far as possible.

It seems I sometimes have to choke it to keep it running a little longer trying to get the last possible bit out of the thing and leave it as dry as possible. I often will pull the starter another time and pump any primer till its dry then repeat the next day. When planning on storing long term I believe running an ounce out of the premix expensive fuel probably cant hurt but is probably overkill. My gas tools is older and almost everything was bought used so alternating tools as well not running W.O.T. the whole time I feel allows it a minute or two so it can cool down plus serious fatigue increases the chance of having a accident and chainsaw injuries can be real awful sometime. Can't forget the time cleaning up takes too. Lots of other work exists I feel and have a hard time understanding running a chainsaw for 6+ hrs during a 8 hr day like you mentioned by newforest earlier. Maybe I am slow doing cleanup but that takes me more then 20% of the time and probably over half what cutting takes. He also needs to be relentless about the chains condition since its the chain doing the cutting action. Imagine doing all your splitting using a just the sledgehammer vs axe an see how you feel afterward + and how long it takes. I could take 15 minutes when I should take 1 burning thru stuff like a dummy. Stopping to keep chains as close to peak with file or swapping saves time overall and always helps you get more accomplished and longer life for your stuff cause its run fewer hrs. Condition of the gas cap and tightness seems to be forgotten about by far to many people and is so important.
 
I completely agree there Phil. I still only partially understand why I could never convince a shop I wish to pay for their services, to just replace a well-worn fuel system, all in one go, instead of the never-ending band-aid approach. Continually discovering another cheap part to replace drove me nuts.

In the long run I placed my beloved 346XP back in the hands of the shop where I bought two new saws this year. The mechanic there says he can do better rebuild jobs in the winter, when he doesn't have ASAP jobs coming in continuously. He says the fuel lines on 346XPs are known to deteriorate by the vents ("in the back, basically") and he will replace them.

For my 55 I will do a compression test on the 4 my family owns and rebuild the best one into a Franken55 from all the others. Mostly for a log-term backup saw. My Dad was given a beefier saw in the 300 range (forget model #, 360 perhaps); so he is good to go for now. And there is a 'Big Box' consuner Husqy around, purchased very cheaply in a never-used condition from a widowed friend to help her out, that I doubt could make it through an 8 hour day, around for a pinch I guess. I have never seen a saw with just a single stud to hold the clutch cover on before.

My first go at buying a compression tester wouldn't work for chainsaw plugs, will buy a more specific one later this year.

And then rebuild just the strongest remaining 345 brushsaw, or two. I don't know if the final boot I need for that has arrived from Sweden yet. It should have been replaced with the carb several years ago now, in my opinion.

In Michigan, I have worked from Newaygo to Rogers City to Brimley to Watersmeet in the last few years, and try and spend my money at true saw shops wherever I go. I do esoteric silviculture and habitat cutting work, frequently on walk-in sites where just carrying in an extra saw isn't the way to go, and the jobs are usually just cutting all day, every day. I have no wish to call out a specific shop for being slammed with poorly maintained weekend warrior saws all the time, owned by people unhappy to have to pay for just the band-aid. One in the east U.P. told me this year they had 15 saws in line first before they would even take the cover off one of my projects, if they even could.

I do wish I could get to the shop in Wakefield more often, they seemed happy to rebuild an old brush-saw with a new, improved trigger system for me. But Wakefield is a long long way from most anywhere else I usually am.

Right now I am running a 550XP every day, with a 562XP as a back-up, though I will run a tank or two on that whenever I am near the truck.

I would like to rebuild those saws mentioned myself, we'll see if I can ever get home long enough to catch up.
 
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